Tipidave Posted November 12, 2021 Report Share Posted November 12, 2021 Just want to check if I can swap out a tired 1200 and replace with a 13/60 with the minimum of fuss and bother… same clutch? Gearbox etc. thanks in advance dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 12, 2021 Report Share Posted November 12, 2021 It's a moderately simple drop-in as the gearbox is the same. There may be clutch differences - if the 1200 is a coil spring then even the hydraulics aren't quite the same. You will need a 13/60 carb, exhaust and manifolds, which may also mean accelerator linkage bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted November 12, 2021 Report Share Posted November 12, 2021 Is the Rear axle ratio the same?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted November 12, 2021 Report Share Posted November 12, 2021 Just now, PeteH said: Is the Rear axle ratio the same?. Pete Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted November 12, 2021 Report Share Posted November 12, 2021 54 minutes ago, Tipidave said: Just want to check if I can swap out a tired 1200 and replace with a 13/60 with the minimum of fuss and bother… same clutch? Gearbox etc. thanks in advance dave Rob's already confirmed most of the details but I'll add a sixpenny-worth; if you're swapping the entire engine, no problem, mounting points, bellhousing etc are all the same. It all depends on how much of the replacement engine you have. Manifolds are different (as are heads, just in case!) so are exhausts, so you'll need the 13/60 manifolds; if you have the 13/60 flywheel you can go for diaphragm clutch so long as you use the correct slave cylinder or else swap the flywheel and use the 1200 setup. All else - waterpump housing, distributor, fuel pump etc is a straight swap to identical mountings or fittings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted November 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 Thank you all… that is very clear. One final point…. Is it considered to be a worthwhile exercise? I would like to get the car to a point where it isn’t revving so high on dual carriageway/motorway. I am thinking once engine done to save more pennies and then change gearbox(O/D) or diff to make improvements. all views welcome 😀👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 we have a 1200 local that works really well with a 3.63 diff ratio much simpler/cheaper than adding an overdrive Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tipidave Posted November 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 Great that sounds like a good option then 😀👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 think you do need to swap the coupling flange or the prop coupling tp match either will work the 3.63 will ?? have a collapsible spacer so care needed in swapping needs to be tight but dont want to crush the spacer beyond its orig ie using a different coupling you cant just return nut to where it came from as coupling may be different dimension /depth changing the prop uj coupling has no effect on the diff pinion pre load so maybe a best option Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 you could even go 1500, though you would need the diaphragm type clutch and flywheel from a 1300 or late 1200. the flywheel bolt holes will need drilling out for the larger bolts though (unless from the late large bearing crank 1300). Then you would certainly need to upgrade to a taller diff or overdrive or both, but that is a much less revvy setup and really no more effort than a 1300. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted November 14, 2021 Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 But if it's an early 1200 diff then the inner driveshafts are smaller If it is a GA with a number under 237600, GB under 57202 or FC under 120000 then it is the early thin inner shaft type. This is not a problem unless the engine has been swapped. These inner shafts may break with a 1300 engine and WILL break with a 1500 engine. It may take a while, but it will. C. Posted Friday at 18:35 On 12/11/2021 at 18:34, PeteH said: Is the Rear axle ratio the same?. Pete Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 15, 2021 Report Share Posted November 15, 2021 I sheared them on my 59 948 rot box back in 1966 she buzzed along quite quickly probably due to the rot / rusty weight reduction of no floors or side rails along with disintegrated body mounts and lots more .... at 7 yrs old it should have put me off heralds but 40 yrs later got the Vit6 with ....big shafts..... and less rust at 40 yrs older Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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