Danwedges
-
Posts
103 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Everything posted by Danwedges
-
I'm after a pair of steel wheels either 4.5 or 5.5 wide that I'm looking to get banded wider so tatty is fine as long as they're solid and not buckled or anything they will be getting shot blasted and powder coated when finished Cheaper the better can collect as long as they're not too far I'm based in Washington tyne and wear Thanks Dan
-
My front pipe is Swiss cheesed and a replacement is £60 so if I could get a manifold for a smidge more I'd rather change out the old cast one and dispose of the holed front pipe with it
-
I'm sure rimmer bros have an unbranded stainless manifold for the 6 for £250 and to be perfectly honest I'm more after one for aesthetics than performance any performance gains are just a welcomed bonus
-
Looking for a cheap exhaust manifold stainless or mild steel as I'd probably have to heat wrap it anyway I know you can buy them new for around £200 or so but if I'm wrapping it I'm not bothered about it looking shiny and new so if anyone has one they're not using and wants rid let me know Thanks Dan
-
The carbs are off my 2500 engine that were running fine but it threw a rod and I replaced it with a 2000mk2 saloon engine and the same setup for this leaned out excessively on the smaller engine which was the exact opposite to what I was expecting but being hif carbs I couldn't try a standard airbox so that was the only way I could think to restrict airflow a bit with what I had in the garage and it actually worked haha
-
I had bother the last time I used the colour tune on mine showing flashing yellow on idle and white at higher revs which I put down to the air filters flowing too much air which was causing a flat spot at 3500 under load but this has been cured with velocity stacks inside the air filters and the top half of the filters taped off to reduce air in but I haven't checked with the colour tune since so probably a good idea I'll have to dig it out of the back of the garage
-
I have a 6 mile journey from work mainly on a motorway is this enough to give a proper colour on the plugs to represent the mixture? If so I can check and adjust in the morning when I get home from work
-
I've adjusted 1/4 turn would you recommend another 1/4? Or should I leave as is and check next weekend? I usually do about 100 miles a week and it only ever sees shell v power as anything else seems to run flat and cause overrun. I stopped using fuel additive a few months ago after reading about lead memory so maybe the red colouring will disappear after a few more months
-
I personally think yours look closer to correct than mine but defiantly on the leaner side of good where as mine may be on the richer side?
-
My car seems to be running okay so I cleaned my plugs last week to check the colour so after 100 miles this is the colour of them and was wondering should I lean the mixture off? The outer ring is black with carbon but the centre and electrode is virtually uncoloured I've always been told to aim for a tan/brown colour and these plugs are making me think it's rich and lean at the same time? What's your opinion? Thanks
-
I have an early mg prefix 2.5pi engine that I will be running on twin hif44 carbs with what I believe to be a tr6 distributor with no vac advance and was wondering if changing to the correct 2500pi distributor would be better or would the 2500s/tc distributor be a better suit as it's now running on carbs? The main reason being that it's unable to return more than 18mpg no matter how sensibly it is driven so I was thinking switch to a distributor with vacuum advance Any advice is appreciated Thanks Dan
-
I'm not a member of Facebook otherwise I would have messaged him Reguardless it was a pleasure seeing his car and has tempted me to turn my own gt6 into a road track car and maybe attempt a couple of track days myself
-
I made a passing comment and his wife mentioned something about it being more datsun than triumph did he elaborate on this or have I misheard something?
-
I saw a mk2 gt6 in blue and white racing at croft nostalgia weekend and I'm dying to find out more about it I believe it's owner is called roy davis Does anyone else know anything about this car? Really wide wheels and a gt6mk3 badge on the back
-
So being a 72 Rotoflex gt6 I will need the early type gt6 drums?
-
I've been looking at replacing my rear be a drums as I think they have warped but when looking i can only find drums for sale at over £50 each and that seems steep to me so I was wondering if anyone else has replaced theirs and if so where did they get theirs from and how much were they? I've found A pair of spitfire drums for £20 so surely gt6 drums can't be 5 times more expensive
-
Just an update as I finally found time to have a play with the car and I've managed to get it to pull smoothly through the revs using bae needles, green springs, stub stacks inside the k&n pancake filters and blocked the top half of the filters using gaffer tape now the car will pull smoothly right through the rev range and seems to be using a little less fuel too . I am still interested in replacing my distributor for one with a vacuum advance in hope of improving fuel economy slightly more but I'm struggling to find one with the little adjuster on as Well as the vacuum advance my current is a lucas distributor running points and condenser with no vac advance, a little adjuster for timing and a tacho drive I can find delco type electronic or points distributors with the tacho drive but not lucas?
-
No brass tags to identify the carbs and the bcy needles were rich on idle to get the car to be semi drivable if the idle was set at a blue colour on the colour tune the mixture leaned out far to much with revs
-
They're defiantly hif carbs no external float chamber
-
I've tried bcy needles with green spring and they were leaning off too much and running to rich on idle so I returned to the bae needles I think ideally I would like to get the car on a rolling road as all of my measurements are from a gastester or gunson colourtune and they read spot on when not under load but I'm struggling to find anywhere that also stocks su needles ect to try different options
-
I'm not 100% sure but I think they're 1.75"
-
I'm pretty sure my carbs are hif carbs have been told they could originally been dolomite sprint carbs but I'm not sure I've got a pair of bcy needles which are very lean on the top end the bae needles are defiantly an improvement on bcy
-
When I had a similar problem with the 2500 it wouldn't rev above 3500 at all and I was suggested various needles and the bae were suggested as a rich needle that could improve performance with the cost of reduces mpg My understanding of airflow would suggest that the 2000 would require the same fuelling at 3500 revs as the 2500 requires at 2800 revs and when running the 2500 it revved freely throughout the rev range using the same needles
-
It does seem to improve with choke above 3000 but suffers below I was under the impression that bae needles were on the rich side for the 2500 so surely they should be richer for the 2000 ?
-
I assumed the same but a spray around all the joins in the manifolds with brake and parts cleaner saw no increase in revs and the colour tune shows yellow under acceleration and blue at steady revs throughout the rev range but when driving it pulls all the way up to 3500 then flat then a noticeable loss in power from 3500 onwards I had bought the engine rebuilt but never used so I have no idea of it's internal spec or cam
