Danwedges
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Everything posted by Danwedges
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I Have yellow and green springs I was using green on the 2500 and I've swapped back to yellow for the 2000 in attempt to solve the flat spots and lack of power to no avail. i need a suitable distributor with a tacho drive on it the engine looks to have had light headwork and it's running k&n filters
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I'm currently running bae needles which ran my 2500 engine as I tried bcy needles and they leaned off far too much on the top end bae seems to be a good match when checking with the colour tune and the engine number is me37332he I have every intention of rebuilding my 2500 engine and replacing the 2000 when it's finished so I would like to keep the costs down and not splash out for a fancy distributor but I would like the car to pull smoothly through the revs The reason I ask is when looking on eBay at distributors some say fits 2000 /2500 so didn't know if the advance curve was different
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My cars a mk3 gt6 currently running a 2000 saloon engine twin hif carbs with distributor from what I believe to be a 2500 pi engine with no vacuum advance and was wondering is there any real difference between a standard gt6 distributor to the pi distributor? The reason being is I seem to have a flat spot around 3500rpm and a lack of power after that and I'm trying to work out possible causes Any input is greatly appreciated thanks
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Anyone got a spare engine lieing around that they would care to sell
Danwedges replied to Danwedges's topic in Parts Wanted
Sounded like it threw a con rod bolt and now the full thing is seized solid Any ideas what price he is looking for for the 2500s? -
So today I fixed my overdrive which is now working flawlessly but unfortunately after only a handful of miles my engine has decided to bite the bullet and will certainly need rebuilding My current engine is a 2500 pi engine running twin hif44 carbs so ideally would like to replace it with another 2500 but would consider any 2000 engine As well if anyone has one lieing around that they'd part with for some money's I intend on rebuilding my current engine anyways but for quickness would like a 1 in 1 out to retain use of the car whilst rebuilding
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Okay so after adjusting the brass arm for the overdrive to take out the slack I can now manually activate my overdrive with the back wheels in the air idling in 4th gear by pulling on the arm but my solenoid will not pull it but will hold it if switched on and pulled over manually if you understand what I mean? Is this a faulty solenoid? Would a new solenoid have the strength to pull the arm on its own? Or are there other issues at play here?
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I know I should have left it off but I'm using the car as my daily driver so needed it back together to get about, oh well what's another day tinkering haha I'll defiantly check the valve and clean it through should I run the car with the valve, spring, ball, ECT all removed ? Will it push a lot of oil and require topping up after or will it just be a little dribble?
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Yeah wish I had read through the overdrive section more thoroughly before starting it's a nightmare getting this tunnel in and out but I'm determined to get overdrive working I've seen there's a filter to check along with that valve and I've read about fitting a pressure gauge somewhere to check the pumps operating properly but I'll have to find a pressure gauge first
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Sorry I should have probably started a new thread for this but 4th jumps out every now and then but my overdrive just doesn't engage so I was trying to find a solution to that but I will defiantly check the springs for 4th are they in the actual remote control assemble or in the top of the gearbox? The brass arm in my overdrive unit which the solenoid pulls on is not sprung and I was wondering if it should be as I'm trying to work out what could be the cause of my overdrive not working
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So it is ment to be sprung?
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I've aligned it up perfectly when engaged and topped oil up, it's not getting hot and appears to have full travel on the solenoid but still not working I'm wondering should the brass arm be sprung at all? Mine just stays where it is when disengaged and I can move it with my finger I'm thinking this could be an internal problem
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Seems to line up okay but looks practically lined up when not energised I'll have to check tomorrow with a 3mm drill bit I'll try topping up gear oil and test drive before reinstating the tunnel too
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Should the brass part sit the the left or the right of the hole and should it be lined up when engaged or when disengaged?
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Okay so I've finally gotten round to having a look at this overdrive fain and can confirm that both relay and solenoid click but the solenoid only moves about a milimeter so I was wondering if this is correct or should it move more than this?
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I've been looking at the availability of wheels in the standard 4x95.25 pcd on my mk3 gt6 hand noticed that bigger triumphs run a 4x114.3 pcd and was wondering if anyone knew if the hubs were interchangeable between the 2 The other option I've seen to change pcd is the alloy hubs drilled any pcd I've seen for sale ( can't remember what site) and running adapters on the back but ideally I'd like to stay away from adaptors Has anyone on here changed their pcd or is everyone running standard wheels?
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I know k11 micra have 3 maybe 4 speeds on their blowers so many a k11 blower unit would be okay to use with the gt6 2 speed resistor? I'll have to read into it more because if it could burn out it's a nightmare to get the heater on and out so i would like to only have to do it once if possible.
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Is that Smith's blower from a gt6? Or a Herald like in the link? I'm considering doing this myself as my demisters are pathetic in my gt6 and I use it daily so would like to have a bit more air flow through my vents Also am I right in thinking that a single speed blower would run at 2 speeds if wired up with the standard 2 stage pull switch? Thanks Dan
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If you decide to swap out exhausts and want rid of that stainless one I'll see what pennies I can scrape together just let me know Thanks Dan.
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Thanks I'll pull the tunnel back off at the weekend and check for the solenoid actuating I know there's defiantly voltage coming out of the relay but I didn't check the solenoid at all I think I heard it click and was too eager to get it back on the road to see if it was working haha never mind I'd like to change all the fluids so it will need to come off again anyways, I'll see if I can book a ramp and get it in the air for easier access when draining everything I'll report back once I've done. Thanks, Dan
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Okay so I've had the tunnel out and sorted a few poor connections and broken wires and squared up the fork for the gearstixk and it doesn't seem to be jumping out of 4th anymore but I haven't driven it much due to bad weather and now my overdrive clicks when ignition on but not running but doesn't engage when driving what are my next steps? I've read about low oil causing this so I'm thinking change gearbox oil so any reccomendations for gearbox oil and diff oil as I might as Well change all oils at the same time I have 20w50 for the engine which I'm assuming will be correct for the engine and many ep90? For gearbox and diff? Any other suggestions would be appreciated too Thanks, Dan
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Yes that's exactly right see how yours is slightly offcenter where it seals? Well mine is approx 1/4 further out of centre and is leaving a gap on one side and I'm a bit weary to try and bend it more into centre in case it snaps
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I'll just try to remember to put it in my actual post in future posts just saves any confusion
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Yeah sorry it's a mk3 rotoflex gt6
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£160 Is a bit steep I'd rather wait till it's being restored before splashing out that sort of cash for shiny bits hopefully I'll be able to pick up a cheap 2nd hand one in working order off eBay or something
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Thanks I'll be sure to check hopefully I will get chance this weekend to have a look
