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Paula

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Posts posted by Paula

  1. 1 minute ago, Peter Truman said:

    Paula I don't know there availability in UK but eons ago here in Melbourne I picked up a chromed 6 potter rocker cover from a Triumph recycler very cheap.

    The chrome rocker cover was fitted to some big saloon models, worth asking around I think it looks good and preferable to the alloy units. being the rocker cover and a Triumph there would have been enough oil mist around to minimize any external rust so should be redeemable.

    Peter T

    Self lubricating. Mine does that quite well!

  2. Hello.

    Well what a horrible time! I need a distraction. I'm going to set my valve clearances. The manual says 0.01 or .25mm.

    Is that still true with modern fuel?

    Should i do it warm or cold?

    Also is there a clever way to do a 6? I've only ever done a 4 before. That was an add up to 9 thing. 

    I'm also going to replace the cork gasket. Would you guys use sealant on one side? I didn't last time and I think it would have been easier to use some (and I saw Edd China using some).
    Annnnnnd finally. I was thinking of stripping and polishing the rocker cover. Has anyone tried that? I'm guessing it will rust without some coating.

    Hope you are all well!
     

  3. 5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    That's brill! Have you managed to work out what the noises relate to?

    1 is a flat, 5 possibly noisy rockers, 8 sounds like a sticking starter and 9 an engine turning over but not firing... any other suggestions? (13 is a bit obvious...)

    That’s brilliant!

  4. 4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    off track ,   back in the 70s  we got  in law 's to take up cavity wall foam deal we got with ICI ( well not entirely) it was a 1 for them 2 for himself  and without sealing off some vents 

    Mum found her vacuum and vegetables encased in the cupboard under the stairs ,  we were not amused !!!

      well we were

    Brilliant!

     

    • Haha 1
  5. 13 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    just back to building expanding foam   you can give the underside of the panel a good squirt and next day find the boot is totally filled .....avoid like the plague 

     

     

    Sounds exactly like the sort of thing that would happen to me!

  6. 17 minutes ago, KevinR said:

    I’d avoid using PVA as it remains water soluble even when dry.  SBR is very similar to PVA but is not water soluble when dry so should be much better

    Dammit! Now I’ll never use up that PVA!

    Good to know! 

  7. 1 minute ago, Paul H said:

    Dynax is not designed to be layered but if you let it set leaving a few days between applications it should buildup , at the very least Dynax will stop further corrosion 

    Paul 

    Thinking outside the box you could use another rust remover like  Bilthamber Deox-Gel.  And then paint on  PVA glue in layers waiting for each layer to dry throughly before the next layer . Assuming the PVA will adhere to the metal this will give some strength so you could fill the cracks from the outside . Finally give the PVA a coating of Dynax . PVA is cheap as chips . I haven’t tried this but a test on waste metal might be worth it as an interim fix . PVA glue starts off white and goes transparent when cured , apply in thin layers 

    Paul 

     

    Interesting idea. I do have a 5ltr thing of PVA. I forget why!

  8. 24 minutes ago, Paul H said:

    Hi Paula you could use a product like Bilthamber  Dynax , you  get a “Lance” so it’s easy to spray into difficult to access areas , this would stop the corrosion spreading 

    Paul 

    That stuff looks perfect. Do you think it will seal over small cracks? I suppose i could build up layers

  9. 32 minutes ago, RogerH said:

    Hi Paula,

    the filler is possibly not a great idea.

    It will not stop moisture getting in but it will stop the moisture from drying out.

    Also when you do have any repairs actioned the gargae will have to dig it out out = £££££

     

    Roger

    Good point!

  10. It took me awhile but i managed to to get up to Moordale Motors in Potters Bar. I was visiting a friend nearby so i chose them.

    They said to do the work properly would cost at least £3000. It sounded like it would probably cost more after they had removed the roof and seen what's underneath.

    So i'll be putting that on hold for the foreseeable future. 
    Good to get an actual figure I suppose.

    I was thinking of squirting some of this up inside the boot into top of the rear wings. Up into the fins basically. I've already glooped it up quite a lot with fibreglass stuff, I just thought this might seal up the bits i've missed.

    Terrible idea?

     

    81xCrBUp7SL._SL1500_.jpg

  11. 6 minutes ago, classiclife said:

    Yes that looks a great improvement, Paula, well done.

    May I suggest dumping the clear plastic hose between the carbs and replacing with either R9 or Gates Barricade fuel hose, when you come to refit them. The plastic hose will deteriorate in time and become very brittle, in addition it will not be suitable for dealing with elements of ethanol.

    All the best.

    Richard.

    Good to know, i'm going to stick these on ebay. My carbs are still on the car. This was more of a fact finding mission.

  12. 4 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    is a tin of chemimetal acceptable ????

    but i cant drive for another 3 weeks   Pah!!!      

    Doug will have to de tour and taxi me     Ha 

    pete

     

    Everyone around Pete’s!

    BYOP

  13. 24 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    roof off (6 bolts , 2 screws) and some careful weld might be a option 

    rather than any repair sections 

    Pete

    That would be the best case. 
    I hope so.

    Then what do I spend the money on???!

  14. 45 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

    Chick Doig a good bet and his repair sections are above average quality I understand. Also they restore Triumphs, so hopefully a good fit.

    If only he was closer!

     

  15. 3 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    I think off the top of my head, that the deck is unavailable but try Chic Doig - he makes repair sections right up to replacement panels and can probably supply the bit you need.

    That's good news.

  16. I did the gloopy option a couple of years ago. I did use fibreglass and some black sticky stuff that ruined my lovely red overalls!

    I think it's beyond that now. It's just in such a hard to reach place.

    I can find this panel (pictured)  but not the panel that goes across the back under the rear window. Is that called the deck?

    Just getting all the options together.

    image.png.ee444d2d0fa59b4690acad06723d11e7.png

  17. 51 minutes ago, classiclife said:

    Hello Paula,

    Do you want the panel sprayed by the bodyshop or is that something you may want to do ??

    As such just getting "them" to cut the rot out and then making good with the new metal work being fitted ??

    Regards.

    Richard. 

    I’m not bad with a rattle can, but I’d never be happy if it’s a larger area. If it’s only a little patch I’m happy to have a go.

    I don’t have a garage, so it’s a little tricky on the road. 

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