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Paula

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Posts posted by Paula

  1. 16 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

     Paula    they are available new but a call to canley about their used stock clearance may get one for a good price   my clutch has done about 5k or less no idea why i have it spare but i can put your name on it for peanuts 

    new     https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-vitesse-mkii-clutch/

    Pete

    Peanuts sounds good! That’s the 2ltr one right? So I’ll save money in the long run too. I’ll wait until I’ve got the box off (post apocalypse) and then I can order everything to make that work.

    it was “restored” just before I bought it, so maybe the PO already converted the flywheel. There is pvc tape on the wires to the overdrive switch, which makes me think it’s been out relatively recently.

     

  2. 21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    clutch  well theres a snag, if the unit is original 1600 t is a coil clutch cover  not overly available or has a whopping ££££   to it 

    cheapest option is to drill the flywheel to change dowel locations fit a 2 ltr diaphragm unit but will need a 2 ltr throw out carrier ,    so a bit of homework here , the club do not sell a 1600 clutch 

    canley and rimmer list one 

    bring flywheel and i can drill it to take the new dowel positions , i have 2ltr clutch spare  but need a  2 ltr carrier   so we look for  second hand one 

    if thats a way forward ,       more decisions   !!!

    to get the box off  its a d type overdrive  its quite a weight  i would remove the seat and runners  and steering wheel 

    if you work from the passenger side you could leave the stg wheel in place  , +  Robs idea pop front up on kerb or timber  there is only a small number of bolts underside

    jack to support the back of the engine ,  remove  tin cover on prop tunnel to get at the prop bolts ,  two nuts and a cable to remove the heater outlet box above the tunnel 

    1/2 2af for all bell hsg.  and prop,    9/16af for starter motor   

    and bobs your uncle  ...who said that 

    Pete

    What could possibly go wrong?

    i suppose I’ll just have to wait and see when I ‘pop’ the gearbox off.

    I’m pretty sure I have everything I need even instructions!

    cheers!

     

     

  3. 11 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

    I've found the easiest way to remove seat is by the 2 bolts that attach seat to sliding runners frame.  There's 2 holes on each seat bracket, use the rear hole for door side bracket and front for gearbox side (I think it's that way round), this allows the seat to tilt inwards and avoid contact with windscreen pillar.

    Others prefer to take the whole lot out that's bolted to that raised floor section, though the captive nuts on underneath are often siezed, and more of a general palava, iv'e found.  

     

    Excellent.
    I was wondering. Hopefully I can get on with it before too long!

  4. 1 hour ago, NonMember said:

    No need for a ramp - the gearbox has to be removed up through the car. You'll need to jack (one of) the rear wheels off the ground to allow you to rotate the propshaft to undo all the bolts, and putting the front on blocks makes access to the bottom clutch housing bolts much easier. Also, remove the front passenger seat.

    Lovely.

    I can do that. Probably change the clutch too!

  5. 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

    im sure its drivable  even if you skip 2nd as much as possible   Im now thinking the mainshaft circlip has jumped out of place  its quite common

    this allows the gear train to gain end float as the gears shift up and down on the mainshaft the motion is copied by the gear stick .

    more so in 2nd /3rd than 1st or 4th 

    easy fix on a non OD   on car ,   but more hassle on a OD box , 

    an overdive box on the pannier of a scooter sounds like a straight line only drive  !!!

    see how things progress , i dont  have the space to immobilise a car  so would prefer just a gearbox  

    I’m sure I could pop up with the box and a cold beer when travel permits.

    my mother lives in Harpenden so I’m up quite often.

  6. Just now, Pete Lewis said:

    you may need to bring the gearbox up to sunny luton  ???  one day 

    or as feargal is your daily driver some other plan could develope when we are allowed to escape 

    is he still crash on 1st gear ???

    Pete

    All the other gears are as normal.

    unfortunately I’m still using it to get to work. I’ve started as a Sainsbury’s delivery driver.

    i do have the motorbike but I’d much rather take the car. I suppose it’s still drivable.

    god knows when a trip to Luton will be allowed but That would help!

  7. 2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    bit late now but you could wire the dowel bolt to lock it 

    they are tight  ive seen a few where the bolt is ruddy solid but the selector frets on the shaft as if there is clearance in the threads but the sod is tight beyond sensible 

    great youve made a good job of it , one more for the scrap book of achievements 

    Pete

    I used some threadlock on it too. 

    Hopefully that'll help.

    Cheers!

  8. 6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    if you use the rubber bush the red washers go each side inside the fork not outside

    the o ring is not needed unless you want sleepless nights , while its all off check the square headed dowel bolt is tight , they are notoriously  blasted tight

    but you only ever take that out to fit a 0 ring in the case and on refit chop it to bits   leave alone !!!

    pete

     

    I undid that square headed bolt already! So i could twist the shaft to get the bolt out.

    It was bloody tight!

    Oh dear

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