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Posts posted by Paula
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There’s this on eBay.
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16 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Paula they are available new but a call to canley about their used stock clearance may get one for a good price my clutch has done about 5k or less no idea why i have it spare but i can put your name on it for peanuts
new https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-vitesse-mkii-clutch/
Pete
Peanuts sounds good! That’s the 2ltr one right? So I’ll save money in the long run too. I’ll wait until I’ve got the box off (post apocalypse) and then I can order everything to make that work.
it was “restored” just before I bought it, so maybe the PO already converted the flywheel. There is pvc tape on the wires to the overdrive switch, which makes me think it’s been out relatively recently.
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21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
clutch well theres a snag, if the unit is original 1600 t is a coil clutch cover not overly available or has a whopping ££££ to it
cheapest option is to drill the flywheel to change dowel locations fit a 2 ltr diaphragm unit but will need a 2 ltr throw out carrier , so a bit of homework here , the club do not sell a 1600 clutch
canley and rimmer list one
bring flywheel and i can drill it to take the new dowel positions , i have 2ltr clutch spare but need a 2 ltr carrier so we look for second hand one
if thats a way forward , more decisions !!!
to get the box off its a d type overdrive its quite a weight i would remove the seat and runners and steering wheel
if you work from the passenger side you could leave the stg wheel in place , + Robs idea pop front up on kerb or timber there is only a small number of bolts underside
jack to support the back of the engine , remove tin cover on prop tunnel to get at the prop bolts , two nuts and a cable to remove the heater outlet box above the tunnel
1/2 2af for all bell hsg. and prop, 9/16af for starter motor
and bobs your uncle ...who said that
Pete
What could possibly go wrong?
i suppose I’ll just have to wait and see when I ‘pop’ the gearbox off.
I’m pretty sure I have everything I need even instructions!
cheers!
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1 minute ago, dougbgt6 said:
Another thread reveals the club should are working from home and going in once a week to despatch, so delivery might be slow. Worth ringing and finding out.
Doug
Good point.
I’m not in a rush though. I imagine it’ll be a month before I’ll be thinking of taking the gearbox up to Luton.😢
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3 minutes ago, poppyman said:
Pete will tell you the best clutch to use Paula before you order one tonight. I know some Triumphs have problems.
Tony.
I was looking at the club one
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11 minutes ago, daverclasper said:
I've found the easiest way to remove seat is by the 2 bolts that attach seat to sliding runners frame. There's 2 holes on each seat bracket, use the rear hole for door side bracket and front for gearbox side (I think it's that way round), this allows the seat to tilt inwards and avoid contact with windscreen pillar.
Others prefer to take the whole lot out that's bolted to that raised floor section, though the captive nuts on underneath are often siezed, and more of a general palava, iv'e found.
Excellent.
I was wondering. Hopefully I can get on with it before too long! -
1 hour ago, NonMember said:
No need for a ramp - the gearbox has to be removed up through the car. You'll need to jack (one of) the rear wheels off the ground to allow you to rotate the propshaft to undo all the bolts, and putting the front on blocks makes access to the bottom clutch housing bolts much easier. Also, remove the front passenger seat.
Lovely.
I can do that. Probably change the clutch too!
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I mean the gear changes that work are really sweet now.
😂
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
there's a plan , i do have most parts to fix gearboxes and 40 yrs of experience to back it up
I do all the locals , all get bottom of the road warranty Ha !!
Pete
Perfect!
Actually looking forward to it
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
im sure its drivable even if you skip 2nd as much as possible Im now thinking the mainshaft circlip has jumped out of place its quite common
this allows the gear train to gain end float as the gears shift up and down on the mainshaft the motion is copied by the gear stick .
more so in 2nd /3rd than 1st or 4th
easy fix on a non OD on car , but more hassle on a OD box ,
an overdive box on the pannier of a scooter sounds like a straight line only drive !!!
see how things progress , i dont have the space to immobilise a car so would prefer just a gearbox
I’m sure I could pop up with the box and a cold beer when travel permits.
my mother lives in Harpenden so I’m up quite often.
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It was sudden.
sounds like a job to save for post lockdown.
I’ll look at pictures of gearboxes to smarten up for it.
can the gearbox be removed up into the car or would I need a ramp?
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I can pull off in 2nd fine.
that’s a shame though. I was convinced it was fixed -
4 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
in addition when you accelerate and decelerate does the gearstick tend to move back and forth a bit
pete
It does when I decelerate
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Just now, Pete Lewis said:
you may need to bring the gearbox up to sunny luton ??? one day
or as feargal is your daily driver some other plan could develope when we are allowed to escape
is he still crash on 1st gear ???
Pete
All the other gears are as normal.
unfortunately I’m still using it to get to work. I’ve started as a Sainsbury’s delivery driver.
i do have the motorbike but I’d much rather take the car. I suppose it’s still drivable.
god knows when a trip to Luton will be allowed but That would help!
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I’ve bled the clutch still the same double de clutch doesn’t work either.
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No I haven’t.
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I can get more travel if i put a spanner on the clutch fork and pull it
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Disaster!
Took it for a drive and the problem is still there. Exactly the same.
How very depressing. What's the next thing to check? The clutch feels fine, should I bleed it anyway?
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Very nice
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2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
bit late now but you could wire the dowel bolt to lock it
they are tight ive seen a few where the bolt is ruddy solid but the selector frets on the shaft as if there is clearance in the threads but the sod is tight beyond sensible
great youve made a good job of it , one more for the scrap book of achievements
Pete
I used some threadlock on it too.
Hopefully that'll help.
Cheers!
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All done!
what a transformation. It’s so tight and precise like a car off the tele!what a satisfying job.
Thank you!
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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
if you use the rubber bush the red washers go each side inside the fork not outside
the o ring is not needed unless you want sleepless nights , while its all off check the square headed dowel bolt is tight , they are notoriously blasted tight
but you only ever take that out to fit a 0 ring in the case and on refit chop it to bits leave alone !!!
pete
I undid that square headed bolt already! So i could twist the shaft to get the bolt out.
It was bloody tight!
Oh dear
Hello from Paula and her Vitesse
in I thought I'd introduce myself
Posted
I could just re use the old clutch I suppose. There's nothing to suggest it's on it's way out.
is it worth a look to see how much is left on it?