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Paula

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Posts posted by Paula

  1. Just now, Pete Lewis said:

    you will also find a firm rubber bush that can fit in the middle joint , as i said theres a number of small changes improvements over the evolution of this linkage 

    if you take a snap of the bushes in the kit  placed in a row we can try to guide you 

    fitting what where is easier than trying to write it down 

    Pete

    Ok stand by for the arrival of the UPS van!

  2. 6 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    In the kit you'll find two black washers and a narrow metal bush; these go on the bottom of the gearstick. For this joint you'll have two (usually white) half-bushes and a thicker metal tube for the bolt. It'll all be a snug fit and impossible to get the wrong way round, unlike that one in your photo - which looks like the gearlever one in the wrong place.

    Excellent.

    That's what i was hoping for. Hopefully the kit will be here very soon. 

    Thanks!

  3. 3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    That's an excellent job - well done!

    Those loose linkages won't have helped the gearshift so you'll find a massive improvement once the kit is fitted. Remember that the bolt points downwards with the nut on the bottom; I have in the past inadvertently fitted it back to front then had to dismantle again.

     

    I'll follow this picture image.png.6e93972f9cce14721609807b8ae67861.png

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    when you get it stripped out let us know ,if the middle pivot has the rubbery bush its a light squeeze fit in the rod , all shim washers go between fork ends and bushes none on the outside

    the hardest is if the main spherical  ball needs replacing is getting the tight circlip off the stick its a bit of a sod 

    this holds the reverse push down spring there is no end of clip to ping off , just lots of faf with small screwdrivers and pliers and elastoplast 

    pete

    Looking forward to it! I'll make tea and take my time. i might even polish the case up!

  5. 3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    there are two locations 

    early had a brkt  like the OD inhibitor but opposite side  has a similar switch operated by a cam on the front of the remote

    later switch was screwed into hole in the top cover ( under the remote) and actuated by the wards in the gearbox    ( a ward being the bit the remote prods to move a fork )

    with the remote off you will see 3 inside    ( cant remember if a ward or the rev fork do the switch)  but if no hole / plug to remove you need a later top or a front bracket (rare)

    https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-mkii-gear-shift-mechanism/      cam  item 27

    https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-top-cover-extension-and-hand-lever-assembly    later and most 4 synchro

    later brkt.   https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-top-cover-extension-and-hand-lever-assembly

    Pete

    It looks like I could get a switch like the OD inhibitor (just learned that) and make a little bracket for it on the other side. There is a sticky out bit looking for something to interfere with.
    Getting big ideas now.

    One thing at a time maybe

  6. 2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    It'll lift off. Put the gears in neutral first, it helps with refitting. 

    Once you've the remote off (do you have a repair kit yet?) the kit becomes self-explanatory as to where everything goes; if on any doubt take photos first. It's very straightforward and really improves the gearchange.

    I'll order a kit now. Seems to be about £15.

    Lovely.

    Thanks again everyone! 

     

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