Paula
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Posts posted by Paula
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13 minutes ago, poppyman said:
Paula, dont go into any garage acting as a mere female, a lot will take advantage and bung the price up
This sort of thing still goes on. Try and get advice off female friends and see where they take their cars? Then go in that garage and ask who they use for bodywork? It could save you a lot of money, and dont be put off by the smaller garage no matter how scruffy....
Tony.
My local garage are very good. They know i'm pretty savvy i'll see if they can recommend anywhere. it really is still a problem in some places unfortunately. The child in Halfords that tried to tell me that fitting a battery "Isn't as easy as you'd think" soon found out i know exactly how easy it is.
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I’ll go in wearing this!
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1 minute ago, classiclife said:
Perfect and can you let the Forum know how you get on, please ??
Good luck.
Richard.
Of course!
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5 minutes ago, classiclife said:
They are certainly a good start point for an initial estimate - the photos will be of immense help. Pity they are not based south of the river for you !!
My Mum is in Hertfordshire. I drive up there quite often. I'll pop in next time.
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3 minutes ago, classiclife said:
That's a good question, Paula, as the panel is not a difficult or intricate repair.
Yes you could go to a run-of-the-mill bodyshop and I'm sure they would be okay, albeit those type of firms do charge high end. Personally, I would make enquiries locally and certainly on here (as in I would expect some suggestions to venues via the Forum) to identify a body shop that does classics in the main.
That has to be your start point.
Regards.
Richard.
Fab. Will do!
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I think the roof needs to come off to get to the area. How about Moordale Motors?
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Would you go to any bodywork place or one that does classics?
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Those photo's are quite old. I suspect it's worse now. I'll get some more pictures
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9 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Richard's right - play your cards close, plead poverty, and see what the best price is for the work you need done.
You have three options - either replace the entire panel that requires work, replace a small pre-formed section, or have it patched. Full replacement panels will be expensive, but at least they'll be complete and solid. Repair sections will take care of the rusty bits, but obviously have a seam (probably visible only to yourself and the MOT tester) unless you have a very good bodyworker. The third option is to have small repair sections set in, just small pieces of sheet metal, to fill the holes without replacing the entire panel or a large pre-formed section.
They're all going to cost, and the better the job, and especially the more fiddly and time consuming the job, the more it will cost!
Prioritise the areas, anything structural or which will affect MOT is the highest priority; anything letting water in or allowing moisture or dirt to reach important areas is next, and cosmetic bits are the last priority. DO NOT give a bodyshop carte blanche to do what they want; no matter who they are, with the best will in the world, they'll still sting you, and quite happily tell you that all of the work carried out was absolutely necessary. Get a bit of help to determine what you need done and what's the best value for money within your budget, and then see what is available to repair those bits - panels or repair sections.
Price round for panels or repair sections - they're usually all made by the same manufacturer anyway and the suppliers just add their whack on.
It just got a fresh MOT last week. So I think the leaky bits are my No.1 priority.
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Oh Dear.
Parent advisory recommended.
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16 minutes ago, classiclife said:
Hello Paula,
Priority must be the rear deck as this has notable water ingress, this needs dealing with or otherwise the boot area will rot out - I'm pretty sure it is showing at least some surface rust in that area already.
Bubbling falls in to second place re the above.
You obviously do not play poker !! I would keep your £1K close to your chest and would recommend getting a few quotes first to compare - take photos of the areas requiring repair and send accordingly rather than trying to describe on the phone. Visual rust is the tip of the iceberg, but I believe you are doing the correct thing by getting this situation addressed asap.
Regards.
Richard.
I Botched it up inside with all sorts of gloop a couple of years ago, So it's not pretty inside. I'll get pictures.
Poker face engaged -
2 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Paula,
Tell mum you've done it, drive the Vitesse and spend the money on the party! I am available most of May.
Doug
Get thee behind me satan!
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Hello!
My lovely old Mum has let me know she's put aside £1000 for my big Five-O Birthday in May!
She suggested I spend it on the Vitesse. (She's not a fan of the little rusty bits and would be much happier if I had a Ford Ka)I was thinking of taking it to a trusted body shop and seeing what would be the best places to spend it. There are rust holes on the rear deck bit where the roof sits. Water gets into the boot. There's also some bubbling paint at the bottom of rear wings in front of the rear wheels.
Would it be crazy to go somewhere and announce I have a grand and I want to spend it? Is it enough to get some of these jobs done? I have no idea how much this could cost.Finally. Where would be the best place to take it? I'm based in South London.
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I like to have the MOT done as I don't have a garage, so it's hard for me to check some things on the side of the road. It's a piece of mind thing for me.
My local garage always have a few classics in. The owner drives an old American car. So i trust them.They tell me what parts I need and I get them delivered straight to them.
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I read on Amazon Reviews that they basically lie about the capacity of these things. So I went big. One disassembled carb almost fills a 6ltr one.
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24 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
many dont realise the front hubs MUST have some play( end float) the spec is 0.002" to a wide 0.008"
you cant really measure this with any sense
its simple to adjust , the hardest is getting the cap off the hub, takes a bit of screwdriver and tapping
in the hub you will see a castle nut held with a split pin , ( need to be on the jack to set this ) remove the split pin , turn nut lightly to nip its up, no gorilla hands
back the nut one flat and maybe a little to re align the pin hole fit pin ,
hold wheel top and bottom and you should feel a small amount or 'rock'
at 0.002" you just feel the rock at the max 0.008" you would find some big rock ....its going to fall off syndrome
15 mins and jobs done
Pete
They are pretty good down there. But i'll definitely have a wiggle
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1 hour ago, Gully said:
What was the wheel bearing advisory for? Excessive play, or 'rumble' from wear? The former is a typical 'modern' MoT result from someone who doesn't understand taper bearings!
Assuming the front wheel bearings are the same set up as the GT6, then no special tools required. The races tap out (and in) and I've not needed a puller to remove the bearings from the stub axle - only a light interference fit. Club shop sells bearing packs with the correct felt seal and cup - there are some oddities around.
Gully
Fantastic!
I'll check when i get the car back -
1 hour ago, JohnD said:
£130!!!!!
At which price, I just might get one!
John
Not for the big one!
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3 minutes ago, Rijidij said:
Ooh. I was thinking of getting one of those.
It looks like a big one.
It is https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0744GPKBL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
only fits one carb at a time though.
Makes a great noise!
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If anyone wants something fizzed in my cleaner let me know!
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I've finished the carbs, I ended up getting a sonic cleaner. They are now the cleanest carbs in christendom!
Pictures soon! I'll probably sell these and then do the same to the original ones.
In the meantime I failed an MOT on the handbrake. I've asked the garage to fix that for me as i'm guessing it just needs adjustment on the cable as the brakes passed with the pedal and it will be much easier on a ramp.
I also got an advisory for a front wheel bearing. Can i do this without special tools like pullers and presses?
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes look first.......... buy later
you may just need a spindle with wears first,
you can check out individual parts on places like
http://zenithcarb.co.uk/cf/vehicle/list/?manufacturer=Triumph&vehicle=Vitesse
and as doug suggests https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/carburetors
Pete
The Zenith Carb site is great
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
Ah, Strombergs, nice.
I put mine through the dishwasher, not entirely a success, the ali bits came out fine, but the steel bits started to turn orange before my eyes😲
A good site explaining Stroms is buckeye triumphs, theirs are the bigger version fitted to USA TR6s but essentially the same.
Doug
Oh great.
I'll get a kit and give them a good polish.
This sort of thing still goes on. Try and get advice off female friends and see where they take their cars? Then go in that garage and ask who they use for bodywork? It could save you a lot of money, and dont be put off by the smaller garage no matter how scruffy....
Bag of Sand.
in General
Posted
That’s a long way, but it might be worth the train fare.