Adrian Saunders
-
Posts
339 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Adrian Saunders
-
-
21 minutes ago, RogerH said:
About five years ago I had a need to spray some 2K paint. Everybody warned me how bad it was and that I had to use an air fed mash otherwise I would die.
I didn;t have an air fed mask. But I did have a Turbo Inflator for the camping airbeds, garden hose and a plastic bag.
The plastic bag went over my head
The hose was strapped around my neck and pointing upwards. The Turbo inflator was pushed into the far end of the pipe down the garden on the lawn. This was powered by a Car battery.
The effect was quiet impressive. The bag inflated and stayed clear with the vigorous breeze passing by
I never did take a picture.
And I didn;t die from either toxic substances, Suffocation from the bag or strangulation for the pipe attachment around my neck
What next...................
Roger
😳👍😀
-
14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
which coleshill ...........theres one in B' ham, swindon and amersham
but look at the main website area directory
https://www.tssc.org.uk/tssc/areas_google.asp
Pete
Birmingham.
-
Hi guys, I’ve been a bit quiet over the last few weeks. We’re in the process of buying/moving to Coleshill. Just wondered if there’s a group for Coleshill and if it meets? At a distance of course.
-
1 hour ago, Paul H said:
There are cheaper versions. I used Silent Coat on my Vitesse and pleased with the result
Paul
Silent Coat, sounds like something from Harry Potter.
I shall look up Silent Coat, where’d you get it from? -
I’m going to screw my brackets to the vertical face of the screen header rail. The re-shaped hooks will go forward from the listing rail toward the screen header getting no closer than 1/4” to the roof and there’ll be a couple of Rivnuts installed in the header to fasten each of the brackets to. Can anyone envisage any problems with this solution?
Also, was going to get a Dynamat Superlite Tri-Pack (457mm x 812mm) from CarBuilderSolutiins to proof the roof. Is this the right stuff? -
On 08/07/2020 at 20:51, chrishawley said:
Position of the front listing rail support brackets:
Find the outer captive thread for the sunvisor attachment. The center line of the listing rail bracket is just a tadge over 5 inches inboard of this (maybe 5 and 1/8th but it's hardly that critical).
Hope that helps
C
Thanks Chris. I’ve only just moved back to this. Hence my very delayed response.
-
Oh my. The pic on that site tells me how, it is below. What is it actually supposed to do? It doesn’t lock/spread the seal like the trims that you push right into a seal. Does it provide resistance to the glass trying to push out of the seal. Re the door slam/pressure build up scenario, or perhaps an exceptional fart.
-
Yes, but how should the trim fit to/into the seal? Please will somebody post a picture looking along the profile of a correct assembly? I cannot see how my two fit together.
-
Guys, what I can’t understand is how to fit the trim to the seal. Please take a look at the pictures, I don’t see how. I’m ok with fitting the screen/seal to the car, that’s the easy bit.
-
Hello everyone. Just come to fit the bright trim (plastic not ss) into the screen seal on my 6 and it doesn’t look right. The seal looks different to others on this forum and I can’t imagine how the trim fits in, and stays in. Canley Classics seal and Rimmer bros bright trim. All suggestions and help will be most appreciated.
-
12 hours ago, Ian Faulds said:
Hi Adrian front green. Centre white. Rear brown.
Thank you Ian. That’s what I thought.
-
13 hours ago, ChrisJB said:
Hi,
Some photos are attached of my heater pipes before I took it all apart for a respray. Note that the car had had a previous restoration in the 1990s so they may not be in the original positions. As Doug states, they are of limited usefulness due to the lack of space and also as the dash is partially dismantled. There are significant space issues when putting it back together, notably attaching the demister pipes due to the wiper rack and then when you come to put the dash cubby boxes back in, you find the heater pipes are occupying the same space. It might be worth doing a trial instal of the cubby boxes before fixing all the pipes. I had the drivers side heater pipe "Y" junction in the horizontal plane as in the photos and it was a real fight to get the RH cubby box in. It might help if the "Y" junction is in a more vertical position as shown in the parts diagram if this is possible.
Chris
Thanks Chris. I notice the duct over the steering column. This ties in with a section on mine that’s completely worn through!
-
11 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Moderns would have an electric motor and a sensor, which would link to a controller, so that when the switch is moved it sends a signal to yet another sensor, which powers a motor at the fan end to move yet another lever there and so operate the fan.
But, the fan that you mentioned is to cool the pcb which controls the actual fan. The pcb is required because the fan can run at any one of its predetermined 783 speeds or a combination of, depending upon the occupants. There is also a speed up / slow down mode just in case you can’t make up your mind. Isn’t there. I’m not sure now. And there’s the Boris mode where you can have the fan on, but you can’t. If you do turn it on you must turn it off immediately, after a period of time. The period is exactly three minutes, or two minutes to be precise. If your name’s Dominic, you can leave it on for the whole journey, because you couldn’t see that you’d left it on.
-
Good, no, excellent news, the fab worked. I’ve fully welded the brackets to the channel and the result is splendid. The 3D printed “tooling” would probably do one more R/H channel before it melts into uselessness. I’ve modeled for both hands so I can produce tooling for car sets. Anyone interested?
-
Don’t you just love the way some parts were made. The detent for the fan motor speed is a steel ball which is retained in a leaf spring by a hole, the ball then just drops into a corresponding hole in the slide as the slide is.........slid. Just imagine how many plastic mouldings, silicone filled dampers and heat inserts required to accomplish the same today.
-
Does anyone know which headlining support stick goes where, ie: front, mid, rear. Mine are colour coded green, white and red. Also, I’ve repaired the roof front section and in doing so, I didn’t refit the hook pieces that play a part in the fitting of the lining. Have I dropped a (young bull) in doing so and need to fit them. I still have one complete with it’s knackered end that used to be attached to the car. I’ll remake them in stainless and bond them to the roof. I’ll need positions though so, can anyone send me a marked-up picture or a drawing? Thank you.
-
Looks wonderful Ian. I’m just under 11 years on mine! Think I’d better start looking into electric motor conversion the way I’m progressing!
-
12 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Adrian,
You probably know this diagram, it's from Canley Classics, I didn't sus straight away that it's looking at an angle from the engine bay. I'm not sure a photo will tell you much it's SO cramped in there. I only learned recently that the dash air vents blow cold only, well supposed to, everything in there gets hot!
Doug
That’s a fair point Doug. It would probably need to be hi-def video to capture all the subtleties that one tends to miss with single shots. I’ll use this plus me noggin, redo it four times and relax.
-
Can anyone get me some under/behind the dash shots of the heater pipe work? Most important are the Y pieces: where abouts are they and what routes to and from them. Thank you.
-
Ayup folks. I’m rebuilding the dashboard of my ‘72 GT6 and I’m at the heater controls. They’re due a deep-clean (topical) with some brake cleaner and a light lube. What lube have you used at the slides and pivots?
PS: Who knew that the screen demist ducts and the wiper tube battle for the same space? -
Can the studs be swapped to correct length bolts? That would create a lower assembly.
-
On 02/07/2020 at 22:46, Gt6ball said:
Guys,
really enjoyed watching this thread. I’ve got some roof issues myself and need to address the front lip. Having said that it is more the sides that concern me as they have butchered and not too sure how to repair them - any thoughts!?
Hey fella, have you been nailing it together?
-
Who sells the best stainless inserts?
-
8 hours ago, chrishawley said:
Not the doors as such. But I used new (reproduction) hinges and these were a problem in that the proper range of adjustment was limited by a) hinges too thick (skimmed) and b) holes not drilled precisely (opened up to allow that extra bit of movement). Gets me wondering how many 'door fit' problems are actually 'hinge fit' problems.
Cheers
CI’ve used socket head cap screws instead of hex heads to allow extra adjustment.
The hose was strapped around my neck and pointing upwards. The Turbo inflator was pushed into the far end of the pipe down the garden on the lawn. This was powered by a Car battery.
Home-made Tools and those you've adapted or modified. And also "tips and tricks".
in Tools
Posted
Trick the (grand) kids! Use them when playing Operation. Never fails. Ha haaaaaaagh.