Adrian Saunders
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Posts posted by Adrian Saunders
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So, the rear suspension lowering blocks don’t come with a dowel to locate to the diff casing but the stud clearance holes are accurate and close clearance. Engineering-wise not correct but in reality, probably ok. However, I’m inclined to dowel the block to the diff to get everything as good as possible. Anyone else done this?
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Fag paper clearance. I reckon the already fitted 3/4” lowering block made the difference. Anyway, 1” block now fitted.
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I have the lifter.
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I should have been more specific. When the spring eye bolt is out and you lower the spring, does the spring eye hit the (solid) brake pipe to the wheel cylinder? There must be some loading of the spring even at full droop.
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Hello all, I’m after assistance again. Can I remove the rear spring of my rotoflex mk3 without disconnecting drive shafts from diff, brake hoses from chassis etc? I have a factory spec spring tool.
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No problem Colin. I’ve just finished modelling the early version. I’ll get a 3D print of each part for you to check the fit, should be early next week but I’ll advise when I’m sending.
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6 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:
Thank you for the compliment Adrian! It's a modern clear over base paint system, matched to the original Triumph Pimento.
Before the respray, my GT6 was about six different shades of red/orange, where it had been blown in and faded. I'm hoping the modern system, protected by clear lacquer, won't oxidise and fade like celly or 2-pack. Time will tell, the respray was only just over 2 years ago.
Nigel
Who did your paint? I did my own and it’s awful. I’ll never paint a car again.
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Bearing packaging and picture off Misumi’s site.
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10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
ok so do what it says , whats the main problem getting a split pin to align at 8lbft or the hub becomes tight to turn
these are not taper bearing so any pre load is down to the oil seals or something is fouling ??? maybe
if they have integral seals i dont understand why they comment about dont over grease , no grease should be needed as sealed brg are normally pre packed ??
tthey have spld a lot so theres some comfort that this should work . but we have all been down thse routes over the years
hard to say whats what by typing Ha !
Pete
Pete, they are taper and the inner is supplied ungreased and separate as they install the outer race for you. Yes, might be ok at 8 ft/lbs or less. I was hoping that someone who had installed these would confirm.
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The bearings are roller and most certainly not sealed. As I said to Pete:
“Pete, they are taper and the inner is supplied ungreased and separate as they install the outer race for you. Yes, might be ok at 8 ft/lbs or less. I was hoping that someone who had installed these would confirm.” -
28 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I'm assuming the axles don't have any kind of cut-out for a d-washer option?
Nope. 100% round.
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Thanks Nigel. Your paint! Glorious.
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1 hour ago, NonMember said:
It looks to be designed to work the same way as the original hub, so I'd expect the same nut tightening spec, which is along the lines of "pinch it up finger tight then back off until you can put the split pin through".
But the original has a washer that can’t rotate. It’s the washer (a spacer in this kit) rotating against the nut scenario that’s the concern. If however, someone who has fitted the kit and preloaded the bearings and not seen the rotation issue can confirm, then I’m happy.
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Thank you Doug. I’ve done mine wrong but I’m not worried.
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49 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
ok so do what it says , whats the main problem getting a split pin to align at 8lbft or the hub becomes tight to turn
these are not taper bearing so any pre load is down to the oil seals or something is fouling ??? maybe
if they have integral seals i dont understand why they comment about dont over grease , no grease should be needed as sealed brg are normally pre packed ??
tthey have spld a lot so theres some comfort that this should work . but we have all been down thse routes over the years
hard to say whats what by typing Ha !
Pete
Pete, they are taper and the inner is supplied ungreased and separate as they install the outer race for you. Yes, might be ok at 8 ft/lbs or less. I was hoping that someone who had installed these would confirm.
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Ok. There isn’t a spacer between the inner races, it’s a spacer between the nut and the inner race of the outer bearing.
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Does anyone have totally original gutters on their MK3 GT6? I’ve repaired mine as per the picture because I found more than one picture in a book which looked like this. I just wondered how an original car’s gutters terminate. When I got my car they were square ended and looked as if someone had just cut off a rotten section and filed them square.
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36 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
This is what happens when someone uses a washer instead of the proper D washer; it rotates about and makes a mess of everything, resulting in a scrap stub axle.
Colin, that’s exactly my concern. These are hubs and stubs from my usual source and not wishing to state the obvious (beware, he’s clearly about to state the obvious), I’m not the first person to fit these.
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14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
if the washer has no D hole are the bearings using a solid middle spacer such that the nut is nipped up tight and the spacer controls any end float ??
having a washer rotate against a nut is not the best idea .
pete
No D hole in the washer, actually a spacer actin’s directly on the inner race Pete, the thread is a complete round too. No solid spacer either. I’m hoping that others have torqued to max 8 lbs/ft and had no issues.
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Hi guys. I’m fitting Al hubs, new larger stubs and bearings to my GT6. One side sets up ok but the other, the N/S, doesn’t. Usual quandary of split pin hole aligns and hub feels like it’s dragging/too tight or, other split pin hole aligns and the thick outer spacer turns with the hub! I’m not comfortable with the spacer turning as it’s doing so against the nut, and it just doesn’t seem right. I will check the torque on the nut when I can get hold of the right size socket as the instructions do state not to go beyond 8 lbs/ft. I’m not normally one for actually tightening a hub nut but, is that the thing to do with these hubs/bearings? Has anyone else had to tighten the hub nut more than you would normally?
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On 23/04/2020 at 16:55, Neil Clark said:
With Namrick closed due to Covid 19 I browsed for another supplier of nuts and bolts for another project. I hadn't heard of www.Accu.co.uk before but found their website easy to use, comprehensive and clear, great range. Very quick despatch and the best packaging and labelling I've seen. Nylocs supplied are the blue liner too.
Hi Neil, what’s the relevance of the blue insert?
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23 minutes ago, poppyman said:
I always wondered what they were called Adrian, i was given some ages ago and they are brilliant.
Tony.
Tony, we use them extensively at work. Our CEO swears by them and absolutely detests spring washers or a bolted joint without washers. The Schnorr washers are very effective. I’m in work tomorrow so I shall grab a few of each size to try out.
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21 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:
Hello Adrian
They are cheap and nasty spring washers made down to a price
I have had the same rubbish probably better to use the old ones ? I have even put the set back on them by a gentle twist(still better than those!)
Roger
Roger, it was so disappointing. All the old ones that I’ve removed from the car looked fine but as they’re so cheap one tends to replace anyway.
GT6 rotoflex wishbone brackets
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Would any of you kind souls be able to tell me the position of the bolt hole in the chassis bracket for GT6 rotoflex. Anyone got side or end elevation drawings? WSM only has top and a rear but it’s obscured. The Vitesse one gives a vertical dim from the top of the chassis.