Adrian Saunders
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Posts posted by Adrian Saunders
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All, I’m currently working from home and as such, I can offer a 3D CAD design resource. Obviously, it’s outside of my working hours of 0730 to 1730, but I’m happy to model up and produce drawings of anything you care to fling my way. Not just machined parts either, sheet metal parts are easy, I can produce a flat pattern that a laser cutter will cut from and fabricator will bend to. Basic stress analysis can be done, accurate component weights, even three dimensional pipe/tube bending, all easy and to be honest, good fun. Go on, challenge me, let’s see what we can do.
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13 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Adrian,
You probably know, but I'll say it. Get hold of a proper spring compressor, a plate at either end and long threaded studs. Not those horrible dangerous things that clamp on the sides of the springs and ping off at high velocity when you least expect it!
When I first got my car the PO had used it to tow a boat far too big for it. The rear spring was broken and the front, although standard, 2" shorter than when they started. After 40 odd years I replaced the front again, principally because of extreme rust, however I found them no shorter than they should have been.
Doug
Doug, I only have claw type risk your family jewels spring compressors. Can you point me at some better/safer ones? Does the club sell them?
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I’m about to fit a CC trunnion-less kit to my GT6 mk3 and I’m looking for some advice. Quick check tonight and it became apparent that the alignment of the bolt hole in the bottom pivot block is a few thou’ out to the hole in the lower wishbone. I’m happy to ream the parts but, is this what others have experienced?
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Guys, n/s dismantled tonight and............ the trunnions are correct! Lh thread on n/s and r/h thread on o/s. So, I’m thinking that Britpart part number 645627 gets you a car set of trunnions and not just one. Anyway, std kit is off now and will be replaced with CC trunnion-less uprights lubricated with WD40. Thanks for the help and advice, again. Time after time all, very helpful.
Adjustable top wishbones, spherical/ball joint type anti roll bar drop links and CC big brake kit next. -
Kenneth Williams, ooh matron.
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes you put a 2 after the 8 Ha !
Pete
Tumbleweed moment
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I’m rebuilding the front suspension of my GT6 mk3 and I need some help with the coil springs and dampers. I’m going to remove the springs and check the free length and wire diameter. The dampers are Koni Classic. Are the free lengths and wire diameters if supplied springs available? The dampers are adjustable. Are these the ones that need the spring to be removed and the damper compressed to solid to facilitate adjustment?
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Offside VL removed this evening and the trunnion has a single thread. Have got Canley Classics trunnion-less links to go on with adj top wishbone too.
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7 hours ago, clive said:
No, I use wd40. As recommended by Canleys. And Guy Martin. (he tried a load of plusgas sent to him by the company, he sent it back having triied it, with a note saying it was no better.... And that is not made public by plusgas who wanted his endorsement!)
In fact, WD 40 is a lubricant. Read the spec sheet, it is not just water displacement. In fact its first claim is it lubricates....
https://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/wd_40tec16952473.pdf
I stand thoroughly corrected. Has WD40 always claimed lubrication?
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Not that it makes an awful lot of difference but, an unmarked aspect ratio is 82%, not 80%. Crazy number. Anyone know how this was derived?
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5 minutes ago, clive said:
wd40. About once a year, probably should do it more often, not a lot of effort.
I would be swapping now. Will need geometry resetting. I used string and a tape measure, just like McLaren.
The thing is, WD40 isn’t a lubricant. I see that they do a silicone based lube spray. Is that what you use?
I will start dismantling tonight. -
What do you all use on your exposed balls?! On the trunnion-less uprights.
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Darn it. I’m just rebuilding mine so that it will at least roll. We’ll be moving house ASAP so I need it mobile. Thing is, I was setting everything up level: floor (shimmed tyre savers) and I have the wheel centres the same height front /rear/both sides. Expensive laser level sorted that. I compared the trunnion fixing to wishbone centres and that’s where it all went wrong. I have trunnion-less uprights, larger stubs/bearings, alloy hubs, adjustable top ‘bones in stock but, I was planning on getting all that done next winter.
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The pimple.
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Curses! I lost my own thread. Got it now. So same trunnions is ok as long as dual-thread but need handed vls. Right, there’s a pimple in the vls, maybe something to do with machining the blank. It’s on the section between the stub axle and the ball joint. For me, that ought to be handed too but, on my car it’s in front of the axle centre line on the NS and behind the line on the OS. Again, suggesting the same hand vl on both sides.
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Can anyone tell me the pitch of the Acme thread on the trunnions?
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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Currently-supplied versions often have an L or an R on the bottom plate as a guide. I seem to remember that some trunnions were made multi-threaded and will fit either side - they'll have a criss-cross pattern of threads on the inside as opposed to the spiral of handed versions. I must see if I have any just to jog the memory.
That VL in your top photo is suspect, Clive... badly worn where the top of the trunnion would have been and in the usual place to snap off. I'm assuming that's the reason it's nowhere near a car?
For now then, I need to know about these non-handed/double-threaded vl’s. Then check if that’s what I have.
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36 minutes ago, clive said:
Yep, VLs are the same either side except the thread, so somebody has fitted one incorrectly at some point.
And the LH steering arm could be fitted to the rh VL too?
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On my GT6, both trunnions have the same part number on. Aren’t they handed because of the left hand or right hand Acme thread on the, also handed, vertical links? The part number on the trunnions is 645627 & they have Stanpart on too.
Is it possible to incorrectly build using the same v link and trunnion on both sides? Will the steering arm still go through the v link and fix properly? -
As far as the cat’s concerned, it’s a category one catastrophe, and he’s not feline too good!
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No, but this is a.........
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Fantastic. Sounds like a solution. If we could ascertain the ideal protrusion/engagement then we could all have perfect installations. I have 3/4” & 15/16” protrusion which feels ok, what do others have?
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Channel with brackets tacked on. Made with some tooling this time, not just measured and clamped. Trial fit this weekend.
3D CAD availability
in General
Posted
Looks easy Colin. Easiest is to send me it and I’ll model & draw it. Is it just a flat, stamped blank? I can see angles, but I can reverse engineer that. Perfect candidate for a 3D print to check the fit too.