Adrian Saunders
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Posts posted by Adrian Saunders
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12 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Adrian,
Dumb question, has this ball been in this socket before? And, if it has, why'dya take it apart?
Doug
Hi Doug. Yes, they’ve been together and it didn’t take anywhere near the same force to dismantle. I’d have stopped had it presented so. I will try a light lubricant and hopefully I’ll be able to wash it out with brake-cleaner.
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The minor diameter that the ball has to pass through is 1/2” and the ball itself is 0.556” diameter. That’s quite an interference.
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On 01/07/2020 at 21:09, HUB said:
Hi All, '72 GT6 Mk3 tailgate, tried a couple of weatherstrips of the 'Bay but they're far too thick so tailgate won't shut properly, and need cut-outs at the hinges. What are others using...Is it a simple U-seal or is there a thin "bubble" type?
Had a recommendation to try Chic Doig but not answering emails (maybe Covid-closed)
Current LInks and/or pics gratefully accepted, Cheers.
I’ve used this one from Woolies. Reasonable force to close tailgate.
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18 minutes ago, Gt6ball said:
Guys,
really enjoyed watching this thread. I’ve got some roof issues myself and need to address the front lip. Having said that it is more the sides that concern me as they have butchered and not too sure how to repair them - any thoughts!?
Three options: let some new metal back in or weld every hole or carry out a complete roof replacement. At least with #1 when you cut out the outer crap and can attend to the normally inaccessible internal face too. Every cloud.
If you design a repair section for the side/outer, you could send me the pattern and I’ll model it in CAD for you so that you can get laser cut sections done. Free service. -
I’ve tried both ball on stick and ball on its own and I can’t get it in. (F’narr, f’narr). I’ll try some lube tomorrow and if successful, hopefully I can wash it out and get the stiction back. Last thing I need is a floppy one. I won’t be able to see who’s coming at me from behind. Finbar Saunders or what. This is virtually Viz.
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Anyone know what tonnage press I need to get the ball back into the socket on the rear view mirror? Joking of course but, bloody hell, how tight? I don’t want to break the (48 years old) glass so if anyone has a tip for this I’d be most grateful.
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6 hours ago, KevinR said:
Looks quite neat and tidy to me
and its been waterproofed !
Hmm, yes the waterproofing. Many yards of Duck tape there. I had a particularly fraught time when connecting us into “the grid”. It started to rain and I had other people’s supplies unplugged, big rush to get it done before I experienced a less than desirable rush. Worth it though. Fridge remained cold from the journey down. You can’t beat that first beer at Le Mans when everything’s set up and you can relax.
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52 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Ian,
That looks OK, but mine, picture earlier on, is unmolested factory original.
Doug
Could it be the Triumph changed the way that they finished them? Ian and Doug, what years are your cars? I was talking to the owner of a GT6 at Le Mans in 2014 or 2016, I was getting some ref pictures of his car as mine was still at sill replacement stage and he insisted that his were original/as delivered. They were clearly MIG welded and not spot. The third picture is a gutter shot but also does anyone recognise the chaps in the background? We were on the club site, Tertre Rouge. Fourth & fifth pics are our elec supply on the lamppost. Not exactly 18’th Edition!
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Flash All-Purpose, the most suitable thing in our cupboard under the kitchen sink. Certainly removed loads of the crud. They’re not exactly white though, ‘70’s taupe? Thanks Maureen, I reckon a whole generation would have been unaware of that colour if it weren’t for her. If you’ve got an ology.
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Has anyone found something that gets sun visors clean? I don’t want to replace mine but they are somewhat dirty. I assume that they’re supposed to be white in a ‘72 GT6.
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I painted brand new uprights without using their primer/etch stuff, it peeled off. I used their primer/etch stuff and it’s spot on. The primer/etch stuff smells very much like Jenolite to me. It also leaves non-rusty/new metal slightly dull, similar to a light bead blast finish, much like Jenolite.
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Two screenshots from a short but informative film (thank you Mr Cholmondley Warner) of Canley factory. Is the car at 1’22”, 1,37” and a few more times after, a Herald without its’ eyelids? The third picture is for amusement purposes only.
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35 minutes ago, NonMember said:
If the solenoid is correctly adjusted and working properly, the 20A draw is a fraction of a second. It's the length of time it takes the solenoid to go "clonk". If your meter is digital it hasn't a hope of measuring it. A traditional moving coil meter would show it happen but not accurately.
I thought as much. Thank you.
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Afternoon guys. I’m not ignoring the previous post regarding the use of an meter to check the constant current draw, I have read that.
My question is regarding the 20 amp draw before the constant 2 amp max. Is the 20 amp draw a very, very short duration such that my £40 meter can’t display it? -
Good afternoon all, I’m refitting doors, drop glass and quarter-lights etc on my GT6 mk3 and I was wondering just what gaps to expect/go for. Are they always the same all around or different across the bottom compared to ends? Are both ends always the same? I’ve seen many with comparatively huge gaps to the bonnet and also not parallel. I assume that the rear gap is quite important as the latch Mech needs to fit around the striker plate.
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4 minutes ago, ahebron said:
Hi Adrian
Any photos of the plates in action.
What you have done is most likely very logical but my brain isn't in that mode today.
Does working with Americans cause this😉Adrian
To quote the legend that is David Bowie:
“I'm afraid of Americans
I'm afraid of the world
I'm afraid I can't help it
I'm afraid I can't”.So yes.
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I made up these plates to raise the motor on my GT6, far enough to remove the sump and replace the piston rings. I actually ended up honing the bores, replacing the con-rods, pistons and rings! Anyway, these plates enabled me to remove the sump and work underneath the motor, safely. You’ll need to pack the plates to suit your installation, I used multiple washers for this. I removed the head too and in this state, the bonnet could be closed. Obviously, you use this design at your own risk but, as I’m still here and able to write this.......
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Would anyone be able to tell me how to correct a torque wrench setting when using a crow’s foot spanner on one?
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Just put a long shaft on that side....
Oooh, matron.
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56 minutes ago, clive said:
Probably best not to look!
But the importance of the diff being correctly mounted cannot be understated. The rear spring hangs off it, and that is the upper wishbone for the suspension. If that is not level and perpendicular to the chassis all sorts of problems will arise.
I am actually rather nervous about investigating why one rear wheel sits a little more upright than the other, despite swapping the spring around and general measurements being correct. The car handles OK, the alignment is correct, and it all works well enough. But there is always that question....
Clive, I think that the rear mounts for the diff effectively datum it and the fronts comply but, even so, the front mount centres are wrong to drawing and so are the wishbone hole centres. I also agree with it probably working fine but as you say, always the question. The tie rods are within a few thou’ of each other and the rear cambers are -0.6 & -0.7. The track is 1/4” too narrow but I’ve been able to set the wheels parallel to the front. So annoying.
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I removed one side of the diff mount at a time and both mounting studs are off centre to the diff front mount bracket. They look the same so I don’t think it’s chassis damage. Anyone else noticed this error?
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And the diff mount studs centres are about 1/4” small.
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Hmmm.
On my car’s N/S, the lower wishbone hole at the chassis appears to be 1/2” higher and 1/4” smaller (chassis CL to hole) than the O/S.
I had a checking fixture made to nominal centers and it’s a mile off! -
Just realised that it’s difficult to measure off the chassis in this area due to the curve of the chassis.
and its been waterproofed !
Tailgate weatherstrip
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Hi. Please see the pic of the seal that I have used. It’s slightly bigger than the Woolies one in my first picture. I’m still trying to find out where I got it from.