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AlanT

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Everything posted by AlanT

  1. AlanT
    Hi All, if anyone needs a refreshed wooden dash then I highly recommend the ones that are regularly for sale on GumTree by a chap from Stonehouse. Prices are low (mine cost £85) and, based on mine, quality is great! Alan
  2. AlanT
    I’ve got a set of ramps and push these under the sills when the car is on stands (which are higher). Hate working underneath it. One day, I’ll afford a lift. Perhaps…
  3. AlanT
    Finally drove it this morning. Transformational lowering of differential noise! Annoyingly, I can still hear a clicking UJ. One yoke is almost impossible to get the cap into (no trapped needles) and, I suspect, out of kilter. Will swap in another driveshaft. Thanks for all your help everyone. A great outcome.
  4. AlanT
    That looks familiar @Colin LindsayHope you’ve got a lift…horrible place to work whilst on axle stands. I’ve got sciatica for my efforts.
  5. AlanT
    Given they’d replaced the rear wings and just left 2 inch gaps where the rear inner wings / arches should have been I don’t thing they were experts…
  6. AlanT
    At least it wasn’t my error!
  7. AlanT
    Seems so! It was about 1mm into the bearing so pressing the outer race. Amazing it went at all. Only realised because the new bearings wouldn’t push in.
  8. AlanT
    Here’s what happened. Longer bolts where should be shorter plus no washer. I suppose the plus is that it means the diff had been serviced at some point, albeit badly!
  9. AlanT
    They deffo reach without the washer! Couldn’t get the new bearing in until I’d added the missing washer.
  10. AlanT
    Nope. Someone has drilled at some point. Probably to cure a stripped thread. By adding a washer it’s all good.
  11. AlanT
    Looks like the bolt was put back without a washer and thus was a fraction too long
  12. AlanT
    I’ve found the source of the failure! A previous owner has put too long a bolt through the casing and it’s interfering with the bearing. Which is also why the old bearing was a pig to get out.
  13. AlanT
    Exactly! Use the old inner race as the contact surface
  14. AlanT
    Bearing is off. Very easily as well with the correct tool! Awaiting delivery from Rimmers of replacement bearings and oil seals.
  15. AlanT
    Thanks @PeteHI’ll order.
  16. AlanT
    Brakes…same problem…look at heavily filed leading and trailing edges…no prob now (only got pic as stripped again to sort a bearing!) Also planning garden ‘sculpture’
  17. AlanT
    Not the case on this one as the chassis needed no repairs. Interesting thought though.
  18. AlanT
    My fav drives are topless in Winter, hat, gloves, scarf. Slightly Overheating in Summer has advantages in Winter…
  19. AlanT
    You’re brave!!! I decided to stop counting after a while. Truth is that a decent resto, even self done, can run to +£10k. But it’s fun, right? And you know what you’ve got afterwards. I’m already missing welding…
  20. AlanT
    Not sure @Pettifordo All I know is that when I did my 1980 resto I had to get the brake warning light working in order for the oil light to work. They are in series. Suggest looking at the diagram for a single system master and copy that (1977 ish). You may need to remove the brake warning bulb from the circuit.
  21. AlanT
    Drive it on a dry day once a month. It’s never good for cars being sat still. Bought a Boxster a few years back and was strongly advised to avoid low mileage as the engines tend to explode because of bearings sitting / going dry. My Spit experience is that the same is true for most cars. They need movement.
  22. AlanT
    https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/spitfire-and-gt6-forum.8/pdwa-and-oil-pressure-light-relationship.1841022/
  23. AlanT
    This is the wire that’s in series with oil pressure on late Spits @Pettifordothus why your oil light won’t work.
  24. AlanT
    Did your car have dual braking @Pettifordo? Think it would have for a 1980. The oil and PDWA lights are linked, I believe. If you’ve gone single system (as looks like it) without a PDWA then the circuit isn’t complete. Check the wiring plan to be sure. May need to copy what the Haynes manual says for a single line brake Spit from about 1977
  25. AlanT
    Hi @Peter TrumanThat’s brilliant. Thanks so much. Hopefully I’ll be back running in a week or so. Alan
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