AlanT

Yes, that worries me as well! @Pete Lewis I guess there was a period when Morris was forced to promote the ex. rivals in return for using their engines...they did love to borrow engines...MG Midget etc. This one has only 3500 miles on it since professional rebuild, duplex chain, electronic ignition & is very quiet. I do like the way a Morris fires the second you turn the key (electric fuel pump) vs. churning the Spit until the floats are filled...very different to drive. The Spit is all 'please throw me about' vs. the Morris is 'ah, and relax'.

They make great local runabouts @Bfg. Just not so great on a long run. And they do need upgrading in a few areas to be useable…like adding brakes!

I’ve been looking at MX5 seats for my Morris project, but think I’ll use Alfa GTV seats. Slightly retro and very good to sit on.

The Spit has a new friend! Another resto job but it’s a runner. https://board.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?t=76961

I suspect that new ‘standard’ is actually lower than original ‘standard’ anyway.

Mine (recent resto) has a totally standard set up (all new and from Rimmer) and sits quite low. It rides really well. The factory setup is actually very good when well maintained…and parts are cheap!

Hi Kelvin. is your car points or electronic ignition? My Spit kept running / appearing to have a good spark but then failing after half a mile or so. Was a crap Chinese condenser. A few £ on one from the Distributor Dr and it’s beautifully smooth. Incidentally, just fixed my neighbours MGA by reverting to good points/condenser after he had similar issues…failed accuspark unit.

Nice work. I had exactly the same goal with my resto - rust free - since my first Spit was also a rust box. Very satisfying to achieve it (and probably v. rare!).

I had this problem on my Spit resto. Fitted standard springs from the most well known supplier and they are definitely lower than originals. I went back to 155s all around and, on balance, am pleased as the car is light to drive and responsive.

What a difference! Ticks over super smoothly and goes through the gears eagerly. +1 for Distributor Dr parts!

We’re you tempted to lacquer the bonnet as stripped and go full De Lorean? I contemplated doing my whole car this way after hours of paint removal.

Points, condenser and red rotor ordered from distributor Dr.

Fabulous. Thanks @Paul H

Hi All, Does anyone know where to buy a high quality condenser & points? I've had a shocker with electrical parts. Just had to walk home, collect an old condenser, replace at roadside; misfire, backfiring and stalling immediately solved. Recently had a new coil fail (after 20 miles). I need quality! Thanks. Alan

How I removed/replaced output bearings from the shaft

Well worth checking the breather at the top of the diff. I changed my output shaft bearings recently and had an oil drip despite much care and a smear of the blue stuff. It was caused by a blocked breather and internal pressure. Once cleared the drips ceased.

Sounds great. Just a poor quality part.

Hi @dougbgt6 apologies for my no-show. Just had my first Spitfire breakdown since resto. Replaced the coil last week for a new one, simply as the old one is a bit scruffy…lasted 30 miles! My wife rescued me and I’ve just fitted the old one at the roadside. Bingo! Still, it’s a lovely evening to get stuck a mile from home! Alan

If it's when hot then I'd wager some form of vapourisation. I had a Spit 1500 (years ago) that every garage failed to spot was missing the heat shield that goes between carbs and manifold. It's vital that this is in good condition or the car won't run right on hot days (like this past weekend). Higher speeds are fine since the air flow is sufficient to cool the carbs. It's at lower speeds that issues arise.

Well @Waggeryou’re right! I got the engine hot, stopped, watched as the fuel filter seemed to drain and then restarted the engine. A stream of bubbles came into the fuel filter! So, there must be an air leak at the tank pipe. No smell of petrol or obvious leaks so it’s the pipe descending into the petrol (internally) most likely. Thanks for the steer. Alan

I had loads of drama like this. New viton valves, floats etc. 2x culprits a. Rubber slivers behind the needles from pushing fuel lines back. Take the valves out and blow through b. Floats set too high. Don’t assume it’s the pump if it was running ok for a while before the problem arose.

Thanks. All pipes were new at car rebuild (a year ago) but I shall examine in detail. Seems odd that it’s fine on cold days. Will also change the filter in case it’s not flowing well.

Thanks. Tank has been out and is very clean, pump is good. @wagger what do you mean? An air leak at the tank/pipe union?

Hi All, My Spit 1500 seems to have a vapour problem at the filter. The car runs beautifully until it’s been sat hot for a few mins. The filter is then plainly empty of fuel. Car runs fine when cold. Latest example just this AM returning from MOT (passed, tester said cleanest car he’ll see all day). Just misfires, struggles to get fuel. Could I just dispense with the filter? Pipes would still get hot. Or, would removing the engine valence help? It isn’t an electrical problem. Already fully checked, swapped out coil, condenser, points to be sure. Its not an issue in colder weather so pump flow is good. Appreciate advice. Thanks Alan

I use a wood chisel.