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AlanT

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Everything posted by AlanT

  1. Think this is the one. Just check as BL did eventually swap sides on the mini.
  2. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204099631975?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-duUA5hqTMe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=MNcX2WCaSMa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  3. Had the same problem @Pettifordo the plastic has cracked and no, you can’t fix. New ones are very expensive and old ones will probably fail…but there is a solution. The indicator stalks for mid 80s minis are the same exactly the same. The only thing you have to do is bend the arm slightly as it’s too close to the steering wheel. You can buy new for less than £30
  4. These may be expensive for pads but they are the best value improvement I’ve ever made to a classic. Brakes are transformed! Thanks for the recommendations.
  5. Mintex 1144 are now on order. Will report back when fitted.
  6. Thanks @clive @dougbgt6 I’ll get some Mintex as a start. Funnily enough, I don’t recall the brakes being poor from when I had a spit in 1989, so something certainly changed.
  7. Experts. Which pads are best for typical local running? I’d like a bit more cold bite than the standard pads in my Type 14s. Can’t see my wife driving the car much with the brakes as they are Vs her modern. Do Greenstuff or Mintex deliver this or are they really only an advantage when brakes are hot? Will both fit without any messing about? Interested to hear your experiences. Thanks Alan
  8. I take the point about quality. I’ve just swapped a wheel bearing twice as the new one immediately failed! About to swap out a water pump with 200 miles on it that’s now leaking. Running a Triumph is a game that keeps us tinkering!
  9. Thanks. Will look. Have changed the float valves but could be a too high for ‘no demand’. loved driving the car hard today on B roads. First time I’ve been happy that everything is just so. I’m a bit fussy that these things go as they really should!
  10. An update. Been sorting out a few more niggles (another wheel bearing and prop shaft UJ). The car now runs beautifully yet, post switch off (when hot) the front carb floods! Dry when engine switched off, then drips out of escape pipe a few mins after stopping! I can’t work it out! Any ideas? Thanks
  11. Good progress. Your timing sounds close enough to go. My experience is that they won’t start without quite a bit of choke.
  12. My wipers didn’t work either. The spade plugs on the motor are somewhat corrosion exposed. A bit of filing sorted things.
  13. I’m going to change it @johnyto be on the safe side. It’s one of the few things not changed since buying the car as a wreck that had stood for 20 years.
  14. Think I’ve found the issue. Front left wheel bearing once it gets warm. Employed the far better ears of my 18 year old son who confirmed it’s not coming from the back! Nice simple fix. Perfect.
  15. Hi @johny I tapped it home (using an old wheel nut) before pushing in the clip.
  16. Hi Everyone, One of my new driveshaft UJs was ‘tapping’ very slightly so I put in a thicker circlip. I’ve now got a regular squeaking of the ‘bearing noise’ variety. Wondering if it’s possible to have these too tight (was tricky to get as the driveshaft was fitted when I swapped circlips. Of course it’s possible that something else is on the way out. thanks
  17. Worth driving with the tunnel out (carefully) to check working first!
  18. Don’t forget the heat shield that sits between the manifold and carbs as fuel vaporisation / stopping is certain!
  19. Mine was high when stripped out. All the fittings in, plus settling, and it will be fine.
  20. It’s the downpipe @chrishawley thanks for the tip
  21. You may be right about the surfaces. I’d forgotten about this 1500 foible after 30 years but it only took a few hundred miles to remind me! Not A full blow at the moment but once they start…
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