johny
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Posts posted by johny
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I thought the AA mans strap repair looked good enough🤠
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Thing is I think JohnO meant hes found different figures for GT6 engine dimensions being quoted by various sources😁
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7 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
Thanks for the replies, as said no changes, not even petrol, since runs prior to holiday, not had a chance to check anything yet. Have a complete distributor to exchange with existing one to bypass electronic ignition and a spare coil so this might be my first port of call rather than strip the carburettors.
Might take of rocker gear to see how well valve bounce using a plastic hammer, decisions decisions.
Many thanks
Paul.
If it is a valve it'll be temperature related so need to whip the cover off as soon as it does it to then run and inspect...
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You know theres a search function on here? There also things called search engines to look for internet stuff... Anyway once again the manuals are at vitessesteve.co.uk
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Best to use the free to download workshop manual👍
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One on ebay, says complete and includes delivery...
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Think its much easier to machine right through than a dead end...
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We had this discussion a while back Doug and I checked my originals as I thought they were solid but no theres an insert...
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ok, do you know what the problems are with these unbranded ones?
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I dont think Ive ever seen one without STANPART on them! Seems probable the after market people just used an original to make the mould so they all automatically came with the name. Anyway its not the casting so much as the thread machining and sealing of the bottom that are the important bits...
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Unfortunately you really need a cup round the protuding stud to hold penetrating oil so that it can really soak down over time. Plasticine or something...
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Just thought have you tried giving them a few taps into the head? Dont want to damage the thread but it might just break them free...
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Including the gear lever pivot ball if worn? Heres the drawing if you have problems finding it...
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Really strange as its only been on 10k miles hasnt it? Will the studs need replacing if you take them out? Never heard of any problems with any studs and if youre not going racing I would have thought standard items will be fine especially being a mk2 engine (thicker studs)...
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Hi Brett, have you downloaded the free manuals from vitessesteve.co.uk as these have a great drawing of how its supposed to be set up (all earlier Spitfires, Heralds and Vitesse/GT6 have the same). However the linkage also has a large affect on gear selection so have you checked all its bushes as these dont last long...
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19 hours ago, piran said:
I keep hearing about poorly fitting trunnions with cheap imported pieces, anyone suggest a good supplier?
Im afraid its highly unlikely theres more than one manufacturer of trunnions these days so unless you can find NOS it doesnt really matter where you get them from....
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I just replaced the rubbers with ebay silicone ones - bit of fiddling but cheap and work well...
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48 minutes ago, cliff.b said:
Unlike all the earlier engines the later 1500 had a thick spacing washer between the fuel pump and the block which I believe was to reduce heat transfer. Not sure how hot it gets through. Perhaps worth investigating.
Can anyone confirm if the original pump for this engine had screwed in pipework, like the earlier cars, or if it was always like the modern replacement pumps?
Canleys original drawing show plumbed in pipes in the pump. If using a non standard pump with screwed connections you would have to be careful that its operating arm is correct as these vary between car types.
I see theres very little meat on Cliffs pump, especially the inlet, to start tapping for a threaded connection😞
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Thought you might be a nervous now😁 How fast were you going when it failed?
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Does it start and run cleanly now?
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Yes not much to go wrong on carbs unless floats stick or valve gets muck in it but then fuel would overflow...
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29 minutes ago, piran said:
I think the local potholes also had something to do with it.
So far I'm looking at 1 new upright, 1 bleed nipple, 1 top ball joint and two trunnion sets and a can of ep90.
You know theres a replacement trunionless design of upright? Expensive but been used satisfactorily in a few threads on here...
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Filter has to be really, really bad to block up especially when engine running no load and anyway it pumps fuel doesnt it? How long does it run for?
Stiff steering - Mk3 Spit
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Its like this even with the front wheels off the ground? It could be a few things but one possibility is a worn steering rack that has been compensated for in the middle (most worn bit) which then makes it tight at the non worn outer ends. Its easy to check as you repeat the test but with the rack centre tensioning nut undone a few turns to release the pressure and then see if steering is easier. If not the problem is elsewhere...