johny
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Posts posted by johny
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This is what youre up against😲
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23 hours ago, fungus said:
Hi hope some one can help. for some reson my glovebox lock on my 1959 herald coupe has decided to lock shut and not respond to the key. I've tried all my keys.
anyone know if there is a way to open it without dismantling the dash?
I take it youve sprayed lubricant in the lock? Otherwise only possibility I can see is to insert a shim of some kind as Pete suggests but in the gap (if there is one) between the lock and the door as between the door and dash wont work. Usually the lock isnt a perfect fit and you might be able to slide something in directly on top of it to pass under the catch 28 and push down the latch - push the door in while doing this to release the tension.
Its a long shot and you might be better off spending the time on removing the dash completely...
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Heres a Smiths item used on motorcycles and I suppose as its much more accessible it comes with a grease nipple👍
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Yes not easy. Here it all is with 28 being the catch with the latch of course trapped behind it....
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Sorry just looked and got it wrong. These I got for the top ball joints off eBay - they felt strong and fitted perfectly...
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Ah wait a minute, you might be best off getting just new (hopefully) better quality gaiters. Ive just done this on my top ball joints as theyre fine but the gaiters didnt last two years! Got them from balljointboots.co.uk but too early to say how theyre going to last....
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Sounds like its done some miles then but I presume the wishbone bushes, trunnions and shocks are all ok? However for peace of mind you could take off the hubs to inspect and regrease wheel bearings plus remove backplates. This would then allow the trunnions to be unscrewed for an inspection of the vertical link threads that are can be prone to corrosion and failure. The only sticking point might be that the trunnion bush bolts can rust in their sleeves and so need cutting out which isnt a fun job.
Saying that I wonder if with everything else dismantled (top ball joints, track rods, shock, brake calipers, hubs and back plate off) you couldnt just unscrew the vertical link from the trunnion without touching their bush bolts - perhaps someone on here has done it like that?
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Yes I suppose grease would be best but difficult to get in there so got to be oil...
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You certainly shouldnt be able to pull the gearlever upwards...
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I would guess your circlip 69 has slipped out of its groove in the gearlever 72 which is very common. Its this that the spring 70 (which could also be broken or very weak) pushes against to keep the lever pulled fully up relative to the pivot ball 77...
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42 minutes ago, Roger said:
Don't forget my paranoia that using more force will create a spark inside the tank and the tank goes bang. I HATE working with petrol tanks...
Yes you have to be careful Roger but remember the upper explosive limit of petrol is something like 7.6% which means you have to get a lot of air into the tank (92.4%) before it will combust. Petrol evaporates so easily that all the time you have got some in liquid form in the tank, bearing in mind how few openings there are, its almost impossible to get enough air in to be dangerous. The danger comes when the tank is emptied and left open...
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Would you fill in the hole left in the wing Roger or make up some sort cap? Blockage not that unusual, rag, paper, rubber from cap seal etc
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No, a short length of angle iron with 3 holes drilled would be even better as it would stronger and give the correct vertical face for the rubber strap👍
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1 hour ago, DaveH said:
Do we have a preferred choice of trunnion / supplier, or are they all much of a muchness?
There has been an issue of oil leaking out of the base of some new trunnions but unfortunately we dont know which ones. However if you get them from one of the main suppliers they should carry the Stanpart name and are hopefully better quality...
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Yes are you sure Colin? Heres a photo of an angle drive and it looks like both gears are installed from the back and then capped over. They were never intended to come apart...
Then some similar Smiths units for motorcycles have grease nipples in the same place as the screw on ours so it seems logical that its for lubrication.
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Would you have to tell them about the fuel tank change? Here they can use modifications as an excuse to get out of a claim even if its not related to the actual accident - could be something like a number painted on racing car style and they say you werent paying the right premium because your risk had gone up so not covered😭
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34 minutes ago, Roger said:
Fortunately, the DVLA classic car rules do not apply on The Åland Island. We have a bit more freedome to modify cars, and this legislation is actually in our own control (defined by the local Åland Government). Anyway, it seems to be possble without too much work involved as long as I have all the bits and bobs needed.
Do you have to have insurance there because I wonder if they are just as relaxed?
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19 minutes ago, Roger said:
Hi All,
I have a problem with my Vitesse petrol tank. The outlet tube (or whatever it is called...) is completely blocked. I have tried everything, including an attempt to blow compressed air into the tank. No joy, despite very high pressure. Then I looked at my Herald 13/60 tank but it requires some work (pictures). I can’t figure out how the tank is made. I can’t see any welding in the seams between the halves. How are they attached to each other?
To answer your question I think the two halves of the tank are joined by roller welding. This is where the seam is clamped between two rollers and a current passed between them while the tank is moved around - spot welding on the move if you like...
Fitting a Spitfire tank sounds to me like it might be a 'major modification' under the DVLA classic car rules. I would remove the fuel level sender and have a look inside to see the condition. Its most likely to have plenty of crud (probably the cause of the blockage) but should still be perfectly serviceable. Mine was pretty rusty and I considered coating it with an epoxy sealant but in the end put it back in the car with a paper filter installed before the fuel pump which has been fine...
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Yes to fix GT6J's sports box I think I would use a strip of 25mm x 3mm steel to make a bracket attached to the inlet pipe with a U clamp and running towards the rear of the car. Then hang it with a rubber strap from that standard inboard mounting point....
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I believe some people recommend sealant on the gasket around the oil transfer port - sure there posts on here discussing the subject...
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Great, now youve got to decide where to source the gasket and its installation method😶
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Possibly but it looks like there are different vertical links and steering arms for front disc and drum versions of the Herald...
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I got pattern rear overriders quite a few years ago (when they were a lot cheaper) and theyre ok but not a patch on the chrome of my original fronts. Obviously theres different standards of chroming so I dont know how they will stand up even if you get them done yourself...
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Yes as Pete says start with the simple things but if the tightness is right at the end of travel it could be the trunnions have been wound on too far and are coming to the end of their thread before reaching full lock. Difficult to ascertain this and a bit of pain to correct if it is the case.
If you cant find any other explanation I think I would mark up the track rod end positions and undo both. Then of course the rack should be perfectly easy to run from one end to the other and you can also check for full range of movement of each wheel...
Gearbox reverse stop pin.
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Yes this is a common problem and it can be down to the groove being worn so allowing the circlip to slip out. Being loose certainly doesnt help...
Also it sounds like the stop pin has worn flat as it should be round like in the Triumph drawing. What state is the stop plate in?