johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Think all have the washer to have a nice flat face for the outer dust seal to sit against but maybe the distance between them was changed as theres been reports of some being tighter than others. As I say think I read that initially the sealing wasnt good enough so Triumph opted to squeeze the rubber between two dust seals...
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Some people have found it tight to get both inner and outer dust seals in place so the old method would give a bit more room. Also I cant see how one width of rubber seal works perfectly for both set ups so the one in the kit might, as you found, really be too wide for use with double dust seals...
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Ah that might be why theres a deeper inner dust seal in the kit to suit the earlier arrangement shown in Jon's manual...
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Try Chic Doig John...
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Is that with Jims credit card hook suggestion? Suppose its a balance between finding something flexible enough to go in to the right position but then rigid enough to be able to operate the catch...
Another possibility is to drill a small hole in the middle, bottom of the glovebox and then feeding a length of thick wire with a right bend at the end. Get this into position on top of the catch and pull down to release it from the latch (again while pushing on the door). Plug the hole later with a grommet or similar...
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Not sure what paint I used now but nothing special and the transfers were definitely water slide....
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Is it a new stub? If so did it come with the nut?
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Got there in the end and just hope the manufacturer at least managed to get the quality of the plastic material right😞
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Yes here it is from the manual Dave. You can just make out the plain bush as the double dotted line at the end of the outer tube just where the gaiter is attached...
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Thanks Colin. And yes Im sure there are discrepancies in manufacturing stubs as a taper's dimensions are quite difficult to specify let alone machine correctly...
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get thee behind me satan! The only car to have is a Triumph👺
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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
They can be a very tight fit in the housing and no amount of tightening the nyloc will pull them right in; you may just end up stripping threads. Use the old-school physics method of freezing the stub axle and heating the upright, contract one and expand the other, and be sure they're fully seated before tightening and certainly before rebuilding and using.
How do you know when the stub is fully home Colin, does the parallel part have to come right up against the vertical link?
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Not sure how different thickness cups helps really as I think its the rubber seal that is the deciding factor...
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Is your manual an old version because the Vitesse/GT6 one shows the newer design. Once youve installed the top hats and inner seal discs fully home in the trunnion try the tube in place. It MUST protrude each side. If not perhaps use the old tube?
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Hi,
1/ There seems to have been some problems with the kits not fitting the space available in the uprights, which might actually have varying dimensions, so it looks like the manufacturers are supplying different options.
2/ I seem to remember that initially Triumph had trunnions that suffered from crud ingress so they changed the design to try to improve sealing...
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Hmmm I wonder if it would be better to use a non nylock nut first to pull the stub into place and lock it then replace with the nylock. Both the taper surfaces do also need to be completely grease free so best cleaned with an alcohol...
Now you probably need to use the split pin hole at the other end of the stub to hold it to undo the nut.
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I suppose if possible the optimum position is where you lean the lever over and it comes into contact with the stop plate just where it needs to be to slide smoothly into 1st gear. Certainly dont want the lever restricted so that you cant go easily into first or prevents a racing change to second! Anyway all a bit arbitary as difficult to judge when the lever is exactly vertical....
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Yes I think youll find that weld of the mounting support plate interferes with the OD housing so it has to be installed as in the first photo. Easy to confirm this by bolting onto the OD before installation....
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You might be able to hammer an aluminium disc into shape but need a former and a bit of skill🤪
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Pin would work as a last resort to save an otherwise good gearlever but finding a suitable dished washer might be more difficult🤔
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oh dear, after market quality strikes again Im afraid. Its a good idea to try to reuse as much of the original stuff as possible even if sometimes it doesnt look great...
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Didnt the snap ring come with the gearlever bush kit? Or is that the one that has come adrift?
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Yes the circlip groove gets rounded edges instead of being nice and square so the circlip wont stay in so well. Some people thump the gearlever down for reverse and out it pops....
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Yes this is a common problem and it can be down to the groove being worn so allowing the circlip to slip out. Being loose certainly doesnt help...
Also it sounds like the stop pin has worn flat as it should be round like in the Triumph drawing. What state is the stop plate in?
Herald/Spitfire - Rear Trunnion Bush Kit
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
I think when I do mine if the rubber seal is too thick I'll look for some o-ring cord just slightly thicker than the top hat rim and make a seal from that...