johny
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Posts posted by johny
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5 hours ago, Bobtaylor said:
I have a saloon and my reason for changing is partly cosmetic. The rear wheels tuck in at the bottom even when just sitting in the garage, it just looks a bit odd!
i don’t really drive it hard enough to worry about cornering but would like it to look ‘normal’.
How many miles has your car done Bob? Im surprised your spring is still like this as by now an original should have flattened out to give at least vertical wheels. Maybe its not an original or, if it is, never carried more than just the driver but either way I agree a block will sort it out.
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3 hours ago, poppyman said:
Sorry to give another overdrive question, Being allergic to gear oil i have not had anything to do with gearbox's or diff's and at a show yesterday i was asked a question. Does leaving the overdrive switch on the "in" position all the time cause any damage? Believe or not i have never owned a car with overdrive either, so could not answer........
Tony.
It does run the risk of unnecessarily straining the overdrive unit as its really designed as a means of dropping the revs when cruising and not for the load of hard acceleration which is why it not used on lower gears. If you see the epicyclic gears inside you can appreciate this.....
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I've seen one or two diffs with lumps pulled off them and that's not something you repair very easily!
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The trouble is the list of items to carry in our limited boots starts expanding: jack, board, axle stand. All for something that these days, taking how many miles the average Triumph does, is a very rare occurrence.....
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yes I suppose its possible not enough lube is getting to the friction surface so it could stick...
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surely you must have carried some blocks with you to get the jack to the right height?
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I think some moderns still come with jacks and for those that dont its more because they dont have a spare wheel in an effort to save weight, costs and fuel. However its true these jacks are not the safest of tools and great care is needed using them to change a wheel especially as its usually done under awkward circumstances (by the roadside, in the dark, on uneven surfaces?). I always keep the spare wheel under the car while jacking so if the worst happens theres something to stop it crashing onto the ground.....
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Ive always found bottle jacks to have a very limited travel so for our cars with the swing axles there can be a problem getting the rear wheels off the ground.....
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Certainly dont think an oil change would be a bad idea.....
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Doesnt the OD get held in by hydraulic pressure that is directed to its operating mechanism by the solenoid valve? The required oil pressure is only produced when the car is driving along so if its engaged with the car stationary I would have thought theres a major problem with the OD internals.....
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Maybe the tickover has been set too low and then when the engine gets hotter it drops further, as it normally does. to a point where it stalls. Once the engine is up to temperature the tickover should be between 800 - 900rpm.
Is it worth returning to the professional with the problem?
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I can confirm that the SX1000 was labelled Inductive Discharge and the SX2000 Reactive Discharge but the SX4000 is just a common or garden electronic points system and hence its cheapness. I think I fancy the SX5000 with built in adjustable rev limiter....
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I think the idea with these systems, inductive and capacitive, was that power was stored up in the bit of kit (SX1000 or 2000) to be discharged through the coil when triggered by the points so giving a better spark. They actually changed the way the coil was being used from inducting the spark due to collapsing its magnetic field by cutting the current flow through the points to inducting it by a rapid discharge of current through it. Anyway the idea seemed to fall out of favour (not sure if Pertonix still use it though) and we went back to the original simpler/cheaper arrangement but with electronics used to cut the flow of current rather than points (SX4000, Lumenition and Accuspark etc).
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Ive heard it called knocking, pinging and pinking (think the last one is just a derivation of the previous) and theyre just names that try to describe the noise it produces. Our engines will always do it at some point and its perfectly acceptable as long as its not excessive. The criteria I use is that in 4th gear on the flat if I floor the accelerator the engine will pink (rattling/tinkling that sounds quite mechanical) until I reach 2000rpm when it should stop. If its produced at any other time somethings wrong and you risk damaging the engine so, as I say, if everthing else is correct with the engine the two options are to increase fuel octane or reduce timing advance.
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The great thing on here is that you usually get loads of answers and if they all agree you can be 99.999999% sure its right😂
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2 hours ago, Rijidij said:
Thanks. We were considering dipping our toe in the world of classic ownership with a tidy Spitfire. But we are dog owners, and the GT6 has at least a small amount of space.
I wanted a TR5 but they're outside our price range, and I'm not as keen on the TR6.What is the general opinion on Spitfire bodied GT6s? Or do they lose that tiny "rear seat" space?
For a dog I think its got to be a GT6 as the 'boot' area would suit a small to medium sized one. I certainly used to get a mate in there many moons ago, laying on the flat area, but even I wouldnt have put him in the boot of a Spitfire😲
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30 minutes ago, Paul H said:
That’s Pete and Johny for the explanation. So my description “hesitancy “ was knocking ? Are knocking and pinking the same thing ?
Great forum this 😄
Paul
If I remember right your hesitancy was produced at higher speeds whereas knocking/pinking tends to be worst when accelerating at low revs in a high gear. I think its a really noticeable sound but some people seem to find it hard to diagnose perhaps mistaking it for something mechanical.....
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Result! Cant explain exactly why too advanced did that except the timing is set up so that the explosion starts before TDC and allows enough time for the combustion to produce the maximum pressure just at the right moment ie. after TDC. If you now have pinking (knocking) the mixture is igniting in another area of the combustion chamber because its too explosive and being set off by the pressure wave from the initial spark induced ignition. The best solution is to decrease the ignitability of the fuel by increasing its octane or a poorer alternative is to reduce the advance of the igntion timing....
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13 hours ago, hank said:
Thanks to OPs for replies.
I can remember filling up with 101 octane as I bought my Vit in 1974 -this weekend celebrates 45 years behind the wheel
More recently, I have been using BP Super , Sainsbury Super ( said to be supplied by BP ) and Tesco Momentum ( claimed 98 octane) .
As I mentioned, I filled up with Shell Super by chance and found that it improved the running on issue. Then next time I reverted to BP Super and the problem returned so I have filled up with Shell Super again.
There seems to be a lot of mystery about petrol - who supplies what petrol and extent of ethanol dilution .The recent Courier article recommended Esso Super but this seems to be unobtainable around here ( Derbyshire ).
I'm going to start using Millers VSPe to increase the octane rating.
+1 for VSPe which I found reduced run on and pinking although now that I have the engine running cooler both have improved a lot just on standard 95 and I save the additive for longer, higher speed runs.
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Hi Craig, great choice of car but you do need to be fairly nimble getting in and out of them😂 Unfortunately the price of these, especially with the desirable overdrive, has shot up just recently so be prepared to pay a considerable sum if you want a restored one. They are now getting close to some TR6 prices which seem to have fallen back possibly due to an influx of ex USA models. Let us know what your plan is as you'll certainly get loads of tips and info on here....
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Maybe theres a bit more movement than on my diff but the noise is certainly very similar. I too had oil leaking from the front seal but cleaned out the vent jiggle pin and luckily its now not longer worth worrying about👍
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I know its a pain but if it hasnt been done recently I would also recommend a compression and valve tappets adjustment check so that they can be discounted.....
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I see in the original post the timing is 'set 2 - 3 degrees more advanced than the white line' and I wonder why this is? Presumibly the white line was marked by the previous owner to indicate the standard timing position to use a strobe and if correct I cant see that it should ever be set more advanced than that. Normally you set the timing to this point and then retard it progressively to get any knocking to an acceptable level....
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Swing Spring conversion for early Vitesse
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Certainly looks like the halfshaft is running quite close to the chassis rail Bob (or is that an optical illusion) although I know once the driver's in it the car will settle some. Mines done 80k easy miles now on the original spring and the wheels sit pretty much vertical with nobody in it....