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johny

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Posts posted by johny

  1. I took it the misfire was when driving in which case one test I always do is pull out the choke slightly when the engine does it. This is to discount the possibility thats its fuel related as weak mixture can cause symptoms similar to yours.....

  2. so to recap, it ran ok to start with so you put a new coil on and it random misfired? You then put the old coil back and changed the plugs and it now misfire at high revs?

    If so its now pointing to a problem with the plugs or you disturbed something with the ignition leads when changing plugs/coil. I would go back to the old plugs and have a close check of the leads and dizzy cap.....

  3. On 19/05/2019 at 23:59, ShaunW said:

    It's almost too late to save the great European alliance but when people say 'Europe wants to'  they often don't realise that we as equal members hold a veto. We do/did on everything. That means 'we want to'  as we've supported it through the people we've elected to be there. Each country rightly and property pays for their own implementation. 

    It too late for debate but that's the reality. Europe wasn't a seperate entity, we were Europe. 

    well I think I might have been another victim of false news as I cant find any mention anywhere of plans for the UK to have centralised, government operated MOT testing stations so I take my rant back🤐

  4. As a definitive answer to whether you have a ballast system or not you need to measure the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil with the engine running. Anything under 12v indicates a ballast system which needs a coil with a resistance of around 1.5 ohms. The resistor reduces the supply voltage to the coil after starting so a 3 ohm type would give a weak spark

  5. The ball race bearing is the only locating point so a lot of wheel side thrust must be taken by the u/j and diff. The bearing is press fitted on to the shafts parallel section not the taper which is for the hub and I don't remember there being a shoulder for it to go up against either so I think it's just done by measurement. Best to look at excellent diagram in the free to download work shop manual.....

  6. No disagreement that synthetics are better but if contaminated with carbon and fuel I think their advantage is seriously reduced. They come into their own in moderns with 20k between changes and it comes out looking the same as it went in.....

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  7. I really can't see the point of synthetic oils in our engines, apparently the average annual mileage of a classic is 900 and even if it does more the scheduled changes are much more frequent than moderns which is what synthetics are best for. Our old low tune engines contaminate the oil much more rapidly than a modern so a normal oil changed frequently is ideal.....

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