johny
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Posts posted by johny
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Hi Graham, as an aside, I take it this is a single rail box you're fitting and wondered how you've adapted the GT6 bell housing to fit it?
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Think you might have more luck with a rubber washer but of course there's not much 'land' for sealing is there.....
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4 hours ago, NonMember said:
You can get R/A leads (in fact I think mine has them but that might be the GT6 or the Spitfire) and they are neater, just not what everyone lists.
Thanks it's just I'm too tight to pay out when my originals are still perfect🤑
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1 hour ago, NonMember said:
The cap is designed to open when pressure in the system is below atmospheric (to draw water back from the "desertising" bottle) or above atmospheric by at least 7PSI (or 13PSI on later cars). If you've got, say 3PSI above atmosphere when cold, it should retain that.
What I'm less clear on is how you achieve that. One way is if you checked it on a warm day after a cold night. The car has got cold overnight, meaning the water contracted slightly and more was let in. Then it has warmed up, so the water has expanded and produced a bit of pressure, but not enough to open the cap.
The only problem with that explanation is that water is fairly close to incompressible, so the expansion would create quite a lot of pressure, which would open the cap.
I think you got the explanation there right because a rise in ambient temp can't produce enough pressure to lift the cap otherwise the system could be sitting there with 13psi in it which would make opening the cap difficult. Also don't forget the hoses expand slightly. I think I calculated my system produces an expansion of about 250cc from 0 to 100c....
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I think on the 4A, unlike the Vit, the heater isn't the highest point so if coolant level is a bit below the cap it's no problem while on the Vit your heater stops working😩
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Hmmm sounds like new rad should be on the shopping list and if the budget is tight I really recommend an ally chinese Honda Civic one even though it does require a bit of fettling. Also is your controller powered up all the time to allow the fan to run on?
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+1 for the push in rad fins sensor
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Yes that's the same as mine. Always wished the leads had right angle plugs into the cap though as I think it would look neater😕
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1 hour ago, johny said:
My 2L MK1 Vitesse was definitely supplied with a 25D.....
Oops sorry of course it's a 22D6
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Yes I'm quite pleased by the way the temperature rise after stopping the engine is controlled now. It certainly helps a lot with a hot restart as the fan running reduces under bonnet heat build up as well....
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My 2L MK1 Vitesse was definitely supplied with a 25D.....
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I think if the electric fan is set up to run on after engine stop the thermosyphon effect will be considerably increased at least until the wax thermostat closes
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5 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:
When I had my GT6 rad re-cored (to try and retail originality), I had a boss added into the top tank, to take a standard fan switch. (Can't quite remember what temp rating I'm using)
This works well, but as I have wired the fan to run on with the ignition off, if the engine is switched off whilst the fan is still running, it can take a while to switch off as there is no circulation from the pump and hot water is trapped in the head and top tank. Easy enough to control by just allowing the engine to run until the fan switches off.
A manual override is also very worthwhile and can be used to pre-empt the fan switch.
Ian
As long as the thermostat is open don't forget that the thermosyphon effect will still give a certain amount of coolant circulation. Mine needed a bit of choke on a restart after quite short stops until I adjusted the fan settings.....
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Ahh I thought I saw somewhere the thermostat was fully open about 3deg after the start temperature. 15 to 20 makes more sense although I haven't seen much of a change in running temp on my gauge by going to a 78 thermo☹️
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Ok I can understand the modulating effect but if an 82* thermostat is working fine in the winter why shouldn't it be ok in summer? If the coolant temperature has gone too high the thermostat will be fully open and putting in a lower temp thermostat won't help!
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I can see how it works if your engine runs cold as the thermostat starts to close so reducing cooling and increasing engine temp. A higher temp thermostat will open later so forcing the system to run hotter but the reverse😳
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I've always wondered how, if your engine is running hot, putting a lower temp thermostat is supposed to make it run cooler! Assuming the original is good to me the only difference seems to be it will open sooner on start up and start cooling earlier....
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Manual is available PDF format online and free!
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why not try testing your mixture with the plunger on the side of each Stromberg. With the engine up to temperature I lift one with a finger and then release it after a second while listening to the engine response which shouldnt change. If the revs rise - too rich and fall - weak however its the immediate response your interested in as if you hold the plunger up too long the revs always tend to drop off.
Always thought the Lucas was supposed to be the better dizzy but maybe thats just down to its build quality....
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you might be able to confirm this by pulling the choke out a little while driving to see if the richer mixture that gives helps....
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could be mixture a shade weak and as the weather warms up it gets worse and shows as engine hesitation at constant speed while acceleration is ok due to the mixture being enrichened then.....
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I think the biggest cause of head and exhaust gasket failures could be down to the correct fixing bolt torque not being maintained over time. With usage the heating and cooling of components seems to reduce the clamping force and I wonder if this is why modern design has gone to stretch bolts. However for us the only solution would be to periodically re-torque bolts (which of course in some cases isnt easy) and this certainly seems to have worked on my exhaust gasket......
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On 22/04/2019 at 18:42, clive said:
Hmm, odd. But didn't somebody post something (!) about Payen have=ing moved factories and quality has dropped. I will see if I can find it....
oh god if Payen's qualities gone what are we going to be able to use!
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John, I wouldnt go into panic mode😁 I had a tank rust problem after leaving my Vitesse off the road for quite a while but it stabilised with regular use of the car. I know in the Herald/Vitesse the outlet pipe comes in from the top so doesnt suck right from bottom of the tank but once the initial heavy layer of rust comes off the inside the process slows down a lot. Why not just keep an eye on the filter and/or replace it at regular intervals - theyre cheap enough at 70p each from Euro Car Parts!
Vitesse mk2 fitting gt6 overdrive
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
Ive wondered about using one of those old triumph floor mounted switches you see so much on ebay to operate the overdrive. Would be pretty convenient if theres room next to the clutch pedal.....