johny
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Posts posted by johny
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will you try just the hoses so, out of interest, we can positively identify the problem or just do everything at once while the system is drained?
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Oh and I always go for the cheapest tyres I can find as I drive sedately, in good weather and my suspension is really old fashioned
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Yes they certainly fit the rims but as I'm still running 165/80 (bigger overall diameter) at the moment can't confirm body clearance. However I'm not expecting any problems......
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The steering flexible coupling is a potential safety critical weak point but you raise an interesting point about replacing stuff that many people dont consider:
The bath tub curve. This is a graph that describes the statistical failure rate of a item and unsurprisingly forms a bath shape in that there tends to be a lot of failures at the start of its usage. Then as time passes the failure rate reduces and stays lower until the end of its life when the number of failures increases again.
All this means that there is a certain risk when you replace any component that you are removing something that is in the lowest stage of the curve and returning to the start with a much higher risk of failure. This higher risk includes, as in Marks case, incorrect installation or it can be a defect in the new component itself from design, quality or manufacturing issues.
Its something thats taken very seriously in industry and we should consider because quite often the risk of an item failing can be, paradoxically, greater if we replace it!
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hmmm Id argue steering shouldnt be iffy or the petrol system or tyres or...... best replace it all😁
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one step at a time - theres no learning opportunity in just throwing money at it🤗
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5.5 x 13 minilites on my Vitesse with 165/80 tyres although will probably be forced to fit 175/70 in the near future as the others are getting hard to find. Note that the overall diameter is bigger than standard so the engine revs are less and the speedo reads a little low. Also the wider you go the heavier the steering gets at slow speeds....
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yes there should be a section on top of the fuel tank that connects its outlet to a long pipe that drops down through the boot floor and along the underside of the car...
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hmmm our cars tend to be a bit lighter than equivalent moderns which normally list 30 psi tyre pressures so for me thats a bit too hard and I find with wider tyres than the originals I can get away with more comfortable lower settings.....
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If you remove the calipers again and then push the pistons out using the brake pedal - put something between the pistons and do this very carefully or theyll come out too far and youll have fluid everywhere! You can then assess the condition of the pistons to see if theyre useable and whether it wouldnt be better to do as I did and just get exchange calipers.....
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Mann filters have a great site for looking up different filters and using the required thread the best I can find is a W77. This seems to have all the same characteristics as the normal spin on item (including non return and bypass valves) but is only 59mm in length. Its also used on a couple of Maserati car models (as well as the Fiat Cinquecento before you get too excited).....
https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 77
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well the manual shows different pressures but in general the front have a lower pressure than the back with the MK1 showing 22 front 26 rear for that size of tyre. I go with what it shows for the MK2 which is 24 back and front.....
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that pressure reading is in bar right not psi?
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Gary I assume its a single line system so are the back brakes locked on as well? If so as Pete says it could be master cylinder but if its only the front then its more likely to be a caliper problem possibly the pistons arent returning because the new pads have pushed them back further and now corrosion on them is making them stick?
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get my Fram spin-ons from careuroparts at 2.63 delivered (including the usual discount code)
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each to their own🤗
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15 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I've no idea if it helps fuel consumption; all I know is that in my GT6 the revs drop dramatically and you can hear the stereo again... in these days of modern cars we're used to lower-revving engines (one of ours has six gears) so if I see a rev counter sitting about 4000 rpm I'm automatically looking for another gear.
I bought an overdrive conversion for my 1200 Herald - single rail gearbox and gearstick from a Spitfire - but sold it again without ever fitting it; I'll stick to the standard non-overdrive in that car as it somehow suits more sedate driving.
yes I reckon in a GT6 OD is probably worthwhile as its a more aerodynamic shape so at speed mechanical noise is more prevalent than wind. The Herald/Vitesse on the other hand is about as slippery as a brick so 60mph is enough for me😁
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hmmm I knew the OD would be controversial! Ive done 30+ years without one in this Vitesse (had one previously with OD) and admittedly dont drive fast so noise is mostly wind not mechanical. Also I think our gearboxes are even less robust with OD fitted plus Im not convinced about improved fuel consumption because of the losses due to the OD oil pump and extra gear losses.....
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3 hours ago, Frank E Bouy said:
Thanks John & Dave for your helpful comments. And, Pete - Yes I think it is Andy Wilks, at least his ebay name is wilkes107 so I guess it's him. You say that you've been to examine a few for members. Would you be in a position to assist me? I'm in East Devon and don't want a wasted trip, but from the description that Andy Wilkes has put on Ebay it sounds a tidy car. Would have prefered one with o/d but hey - you can't have everything!
Dont be put off by a lack of overdrive as although many swear by them Im not convinced and so far have resisted installing one. They certainly have pros n cons and your use of the car may decide whether to leave as is, fit one or reduce the diff ratio.....
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out of interest did the new drums look the same as the old'uns and which supplier did you get these latest ones from?
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well rust obviously is the biggy and although Im no panel beater I believe some areas are worse than others: for example chassis parts, if accessible, arent so bad as the roof leading edge or base of the C posts and valances as problematic as door bottoms.
Mechanically suspension, brakes and drive shafts are all pretty easy to deal with but gearboxes are weak and expensive to replace. Its pretty limited as to what you can check on a test unless youre really going to go to town and get it up in the air and remember since May 2018 they havent needed an MOT.
The engine might rattle a little on cold start up but hot oil pressure on tickover should maintain 15+psi and if the car doesnt have a gauge like mine (and the owner agrees) you could temporarily screw in a small gauge in place of the oil pressure switch to get a reading. This is useful as it not only shows the state of the pump but also the crankshaft bearings which as they wear cause a drop in pressure. Finally (again with the owners permission) you could try to lever the crankshaft back and forward on the front pulley. Its easier done hot and if theres more than a very slight click in movement the thrust bearings are worn which if left for too long can cause serious damage to the engine.
Hope this helps and you might even find someone on here who for a beer would have a look at the car with you....
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Hey I dont want to have anything to do with Dougs 'other' forums😵
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+1 for a new pump at ~20pounds. Careful with petrol when testing the old one....
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As Pete says the float chambers do slowly empty themselves but that cranking time is rather long to refill even completely ones. The mechanical pump has two non return valves in it and if either one doesnt seal well the pump loses effectiveness and its pumping flow rate is reduced which can also cause fuel starvation during high speed runs. The only way I know of testing the valves is by removing the pump filter cover and then sucking on the inlet and blowing through the outlet connections neither of which should allow air to pass.....
Trunnions
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
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as youll be jacking the car up to do this you can also check for wear in the trunnions. Your looking for play between the steel threaded of the upright and the brass trunnion (as well as the plastic cross bolt bushes while your at it) which could be excessive if grease has been used instead of oil. You might need some sort of lever to check for wobble and/or up - down movement in the trunnion....