johny
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Posts posted by johny
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I dont recall the job as being too difficult but do remember the sharp edges in the door internals......
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you can get the original workshop manuals free on line (well I found mine no problem) and they show just about everything...
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hi, yes thats what you need and it goes right along the door from the front edge past the quarter light frame to the back edge in one piece. The clips are a bit awkward to fit cos they go with the open bit pointing up and have to be pushed into place from underneath so that they clip together the door skin lip (inside the window slot) and the lower edge of the seal strip. Its best done with a strip of thin steel bent into a right angle and then used to hook under each clip in turn and pulled upwards.
Canleys are a lot cheaper for the seal strip and they come with the clips.......
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I personally think our engines are so low tuned (unless modified of course) and so crude (ditto) that just about anything this side of cooking oil will do! I reckon more important is the correct grade and regularly changes but it can make you feel good to put in the expensive stuff.....
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well the workshop manual shows the use of a special puller that locates on the snap ring slot of the bearing outer to pull it out of the case and along the shaft at the same time. Obviously this is more gentle on the bearing than hammer blows although saying that the manual also shows the input shaft being taken out, along with its bearing, using a slide hammer.
Perhaps in your case some heating of the bearing might have helped....
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I agree but I think the wear is produced by the force being transmitted from the gear thats been selected via the hub outer to the hub inner teeth and then onto the mainshaft. Then if the wear is excessive the outer hub could be difficult to disengage from the gear because itll tend to snag on the step (circled above) that the wear has produced in the hub inner teeth....
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ok so what problem could I expect to see on my 3 rail if I have worn teeth on the hub inner as the OP might have?
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'any relief to aid in gear is central on the hub width which triumph do not do.' sorry Pete didnt understand this bit, is there some typos in it?
With dismantling my non OD gearbox I tapped the mainshaft through the rear bearing from the back after having removed the circlip and speedo drive. Then I tapped the rear bearing out from inside the casing leaving the mainshaft, complete with gear cluster, free to be maneuvered out. Obviously the pukka Triumph tools are best but the job can be done safely with a bit of care......
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Interesting, I can see the effect that broken detent springs would have but what might the symptoms be of wear on the teeth of a hub inner?
Thanks
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One of the problems with finding good synchro rings is that generally they dont seem to have any identification marks so you dont know who the manufacturer is, where they were made, what the material specification etc. Then the suppliers never want to talk about it and of course, bearing in mind the work to install, test and prove their durability, any guarantee is pretty useless.....
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Think the main benefit of that Sparkrite was to extend the life of the points contacts greatly by pretty much eliminating burning. You cant 'boost' the spark exactly because youre just collapsing the magnetic field thats built up in the transformer (coil) as the current stops when the points or, in this case, electronics open the circuit.
However the quicker you can stop the current flow the greater the voltage that will be developed on the secondary side of the coil (HT side) and this is where electronics have an advantage because by eliminating contact arcing the current is stopped almost instantaneously....
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Fraid I think Petes got the bigger type gearbox which uses different synchro rings to the small chassis ones like yours (and mine). Then theres two types that are not interchangeable depending on whether you have a single rail or 3 rail gearbox and I think its difficult to find a supply of guaranteed good quality for either. Its been discussed many times on here and elsewhere with no definite answer except to get lucky and find a NOS item somewhere.....
It is possible to move the synchros around in your box so, for example, 1st which usually has had an easier life can be swopped with 2nd. Then the worn ring being in 1st shouldnt present any problem cos, as I said, the early versions didnt have any synchro there!
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hmmm not something I would use very often though, well hopefully😲
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doesnt look too bad to me. If there is air leakage the gap would have to be pretty substantial as the filters/housing should never allow much of a negative pressure to be generated unless of course the filters were to get really blocked.
Dont forget that all filters are only rated to stop contamination down to a certain size and below that it passes through. The design is a comprise between the amount of filtration and allowing particles that are small enough to not cause too much damage over the predicted life of the engine....
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Ive got every 24000 miles for both gearbox and diff (if fitted with a drain plug) but because this is so infrequent the biggest risk is allowing the level to become low. This rapidly accelerates wear so maintaining a correct oil level is much more important than changing it.....
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ha ha no dont worry, its good news as thats how its supposed to be! Looks like the gearbox is selected to 2nd so the hub is moved off its neutral position - you should be able to slide it with a bit of a push backwards over the 'damaged' teeth youve mentioned. Said hub can also move further backwards to engage first gear via the brass synchro ring you can see in the photos (its obviously a 4 synchro box as an earlier type wouldnt have this). Going by the limited info in the pics it looks to be in good order although youll need to inspect the mainshaft tip and layshaft but hopefully all you need is a new 2nd gear synchro ring.....
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after suffering a couple of failures with repro MK1 exhaust/inlet gaskets I think Ive finally sussed it - keep em tight! Yes, part of my maintenance routine now is to tighten the clamp bolts regularly as they always loosen slightly and this seems to have prevented further leaks.....
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Hi Mark, no theres just the plastic strips on the inner curves of each overider and nothing else to fit👍
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if it is a 3.27 you might find it a bit high geared as most OD GT6s were supplied with the 3.89 diff. It might depend on your driving style: if you want quicker acceleration and to be able to maintain 4th most of the time round town/hills or more relaxed motorway cruising. As standard our gearboxes are notoriously weak in the lower gears so for my Vitesse Ive stuck with the first option.....
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hmmm it looks like there has been some number changes there so if you want to identify the diff ratio 100% I would do a rotation test by hand:
securely lock one wheel and mark a point on the other so as to indicate when it has completed a revolution. Mark the input flange and count the number of rotations you have to give it for the one wheel complete rotation. It should be quite easy to read off less than 3.5, more than 3.5 or less than 4......
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What were Triumph doing! So there are 3 types of adaptors and 3 types of mainshafts?
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As I say I have no experience of this mod but Im surprised only 1" would be enough to need a special prop making up. They come as standard with a bit of flexibility on length (the sliding joint) which has always surprised me given that the diff and engine are both pretty well static anyway. In fact I believe some early props didnt even come with a sliding joint or u/j but a flexible disc coupling which looks like it only allowed very little movement and to me always seemed a better design (unless it breaks of course😣).
Unfortunately the various prop lengths that Ive seen online never specify whether they are the compressed or extended figures but I would have thought that with a bit of 'engine postion adjustment' the standard GT6 OD prop might fit.......
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As I see it the GT6 belhouse will bolt onto the 1850 casing ok but the gearchange rod needs to be able to move forward and also be sealed. However it cant be too difficult to remove a section of the aluminium belhouse to leave a flat surface onto which some sort of seal block can be bolted. Perhaps this could then be sealed to the iron casing with a recessed o-ring to allow for any misalignment......
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47 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Are you sure? I had a recollection that the "different ratio for OD" was discontinued for Mk3. Either way, a 3.89 (OD spec) diff is a little short for a GT6 and the 3.27 with OD combination makes for much nicer cruising. Mine has a 3.63 (Spitfire 1500) mostly due to the poor availability of 3.27 ones, which is generally felt to be a good compromise.
Easy to check diff (as long as its standard of course): serial number non-OD is KC***** = 3.27 and overdrive KD***** = 3.89
Out for a spin
in General
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On the contrary Shaun, I think everybody should get out on snow and ice in a safe place as its great practice. Far better to experience what its like, how easy it is to lose control and what you can try n do about it before it happens on the road....