johny

yes theres certainly a lot of 'dire warnings' floating around these days😱

probably how Id do it, thanks

That sounds like a pretty good life span. What procedure do you use for the fluid change overs and do you replace all seals?

I think what we need is some first hand info. Can anyone who's actually changed over to silicone without replacing all the system seals give us some feedback please?

Cant see a problem with them not mixing but I have seen (expensive) recommendations to flush the system with silicone fluid before the final fill so as to minimise the amount of mineral oil contamination. Not heard of seals giving problems and wonder if there isnt some vested interest from a few companies in this field.....

dont think theres an inherent problem having silicone and mineral oil mixed but of course you would be missing out on the advantages concerning moisture retention and paint damage....

hmmm if its that much of a problem there should be very prominent warnings on the containers of silicone.....

wont any liquid do that though if its got air in it and then is subjected to a vacuum?

apparently it depends on the ABS system but some can definitely use silicone fluid so it comes down again to the manufacturer deciding to design their vehicles to use it or not.....

as we all know moisture can and does regularly precipitate out of the atmosphere without being near anything hydroscopic but yes we're talking about miniscule amounts in a brake system. However Ive never understood why the main car manufacturers have never supplied their vehicles with silicone from new.... With non synthetic engine oil my engine, which runs pretty well, comes out black n smelly so I wouldnt want to leave a synthetic in there any longer.

Hi, couple of points: I believe moisture can get into our systems via the breather hole on the master cylinder. This allows air (and any moisture it holds) in as the fluid level goes down due to operation of the pedal or even liquid volume change due to temperature. Fully synthetic oil is great except that it needing less frequent oil changes doesnt allow for the greater rate of contamination due to poor combustion in older engines....

Yes theyre the ones to adjust Paula. Shouldnt need much and if you do both by the same amount carb air flow balance should be unaffected. Check that the gap is maintained to the choke fast idle cam and also that the dash pots have oil (if not the pistons can fall too rapidly and cause the engine to stall).

well 'recovering' is not so easy unless youre a driving god but at least you can see what the limits are and how easy it is to lose control while learning to respect those conditions demand and avoid panicking.....

On the contrary Shaun, I think everybody should get out on snow and ice in a safe place as its great practice. Far better to experience what its like, how easy it is to lose control and what you can try n do about it before it happens on the road....

I dont recall the job as being too difficult but do remember the sharp edges in the door internals......

you can get the original workshop manuals free on line (well I found mine no problem) and they show just about everything...

hi, yes thats what you need and it goes right along the door from the front edge past the quarter light frame to the back edge in one piece. The clips are a bit awkward to fit cos they go with the open bit pointing up and have to be pushed into place from underneath so that they clip together the door skin lip (inside the window slot) and the lower edge of the seal strip. Its best done with a strip of thin steel bent into a right angle and then used to hook under each clip in turn and pulled upwards. Canleys are a lot cheaper for the seal strip and they come with the clips.......

I personally think our engines are so low tuned (unless modified of course) and so crude (ditto) that just about anything this side of cooking oil will do! I reckon more important is the correct grade and regularly changes but it can make you feel good to put in the expensive stuff.....

well the workshop manual shows the use of a special puller that locates on the snap ring slot of the bearing outer to pull it out of the case and along the shaft at the same time. Obviously this is more gentle on the bearing than hammer blows although saying that the manual also shows the input shaft being taken out, along with its bearing, using a slide hammer. Perhaps in your case some heating of the bearing might have helped....

I agree but I think the wear is produced by the force being transmitted from the gear thats been selected via the hub outer to the hub inner teeth and then onto the mainshaft. Then if the wear is excessive the outer hub could be difficult to disengage from the gear because itll tend to snag on the step (circled above) that the wear has produced in the hub inner teeth....

ok so what problem could I expect to see on my 3 rail if I have worn teeth on the hub inner as the OP might have?

'any relief to aid in gear is central on the hub width which triumph do not do.' sorry Pete didnt understand this bit, is there some typos in it? With dismantling my non OD gearbox I tapped the mainshaft through the rear bearing from the back after having removed the circlip and speedo drive. Then I tapped the rear bearing out from inside the casing leaving the mainshaft, complete with gear cluster, free to be maneuvered out. Obviously the pukka Triumph tools are best but the job can be done safely with a bit of care......

Interesting, I can see the effect that broken detent springs would have but what might the symptoms be of wear on the teeth of a hub inner? Thanks

One of the problems with finding good synchro rings is that generally they dont seem to have any identification marks so you dont know who the manufacturer is, where they were made, what the material specification etc. Then the suppliers never want to talk about it and of course, bearing in mind the work to install, test and prove their durability, any guarantee is pretty useless.....

Think the main benefit of that Sparkrite was to extend the life of the points contacts greatly by pretty much eliminating burning. You cant 'boost' the spark exactly because youre just collapsing the magnetic field thats built up in the transformer (coil) as the current stops when the points or, in this case, electronics open the circuit. However the quicker you can stop the current flow the greater the voltage that will be developed on the secondary side of the coil (HT side) and this is where electronics have an advantage because by eliminating contact arcing the current is stopped almost instantaneously....