johny

Fraid I think Petes got the bigger type gearbox which uses different synchro rings to the small chassis ones like yours (and mine). Then theres two types that are not interchangeable depending on whether you have a single rail or 3 rail gearbox and I think its difficult to find a supply of guaranteed good quality for either. Its been discussed many times on here and elsewhere with no definite answer except to get lucky and find a NOS item somewhere..... It is possible to move the synchros around in your box so, for example, 1st which usually has had an easier life can be swopped with 2nd. Then the worn ring being in 1st shouldnt present any problem cos, as I said, the early versions didnt have any synchro there!

hmmm not something I would use very often though, well hopefully😲

doesnt look too bad to me. If there is air leakage the gap would have to be pretty substantial as the filters/housing should never allow much of a negative pressure to be generated unless of course the filters were to get really blocked. Dont forget that all filters are only rated to stop contamination down to a certain size and below that it passes through. The design is a comprise between the amount of filtration and allowing particles that are small enough to not cause too much damage over the predicted life of the engine....

Ive got every 24000 miles for both gearbox and diff (if fitted with a drain plug) but because this is so infrequent the biggest risk is allowing the level to become low. This rapidly accelerates wear so maintaining a correct oil level is much more important than changing it.....

ha ha no dont worry, its good news as thats how its supposed to be! Looks like the gearbox is selected to 2nd so the hub is moved off its neutral position - you should be able to slide it with a bit of a push backwards over the 'damaged' teeth youve mentioned. Said hub can also move further backwards to engage first gear via the brass synchro ring you can see in the photos (its obviously a 4 synchro box as an earlier type wouldnt have this). Going by the limited info in the pics it looks to be in good order although youll need to inspect the mainshaft tip and layshaft but hopefully all you need is a new 2nd gear synchro ring.....

after suffering a couple of failures with repro MK1 exhaust/inlet gaskets I think Ive finally sussed it - keep em tight! Yes, part of my maintenance routine now is to tighten the clamp bolts regularly as they always loosen slightly and this seems to have prevented further leaks.....

Hi Mark, no theres just the plastic strips on the inner curves of each overider and nothing else to fit👍

if it is a 3.27 you might find it a bit high geared as most OD GT6s were supplied with the 3.89 diff. It might depend on your driving style: if you want quicker acceleration and to be able to maintain 4th most of the time round town/hills or more relaxed motorway cruising. As standard our gearboxes are notoriously weak in the lower gears so for my Vitesse Ive stuck with the first option.....

hmmm it looks like there has been some number changes there so if you want to identify the diff ratio 100% I would do a rotation test by hand: securely lock one wheel and mark a point on the other so as to indicate when it has completed a revolution. Mark the input flange and count the number of rotations you have to give it for the one wheel complete rotation. It should be quite easy to read off less than 3.5, more than 3.5 or less than 4......

What were Triumph doing! So there are 3 types of adaptors and 3 types of mainshafts?

As I say I have no experience of this mod but Im surprised only 1" would be enough to need a special prop making up. They come as standard with a bit of flexibility on length (the sliding joint) which has always surprised me given that the diff and engine are both pretty well static anyway. In fact I believe some early props didnt even come with a sliding joint or u/j but a flexible disc coupling which looks like it only allowed very little movement and to me always seemed a better design (unless it breaks of course😣). Unfortunately the various prop lengths that Ive seen online never specify whether they are the compressed or extended figures but I would have thought that with a bit of 'engine postion adjustment' the standard GT6 OD prop might fit.......

As I see it the GT6 belhouse will bolt onto the 1850 casing ok but the gearchange rod needs to be able to move forward and also be sealed. However it cant be too difficult to remove a section of the aluminium belhouse to leave a flat surface onto which some sort of seal block can be bolted. Perhaps this could then be sealed to the iron casing with a recessed o-ring to allow for any misalignment......

Easy to check diff (as long as its standard of course): serial number non-OD is KC***** = 3.27 and overdrive KD***** = 3.89

in the UK believe it was non OD GT6 that had 3.27 ratio so yes quite rare and it does tend to put the drive train under more stress.....

That should do it nicely. That plus a rag around the trunnion to catch the oil as it is squeezed out of the top seal and youre away for another 1000 miles or so.....

I think this recommendation is to ensure that the spark jumps between rotor arm and dsitributor cap pin while the two are correctly aligned. If you wind on a lot of clicks it could cause misalignment here so if theres that much adjustment needed its better to slacken off the dizzy and rotate the whole thing.

Ive found a large syringe with plastic pipe is best for the trunnions. You might have to free off the little balls in the grease nipples first but a syringe will pump in oil with much less hassle than a grease gun....

Cant see the springs changing much over the years as they are very lightly loaded. Anyway if they did lose tension its not acceleration mixture that would be affected (thats done by the dashpot slowing down the rate of piston rise) more the part load running mixture as Pete says. Something that I think is going to have more effect is the state of the diaphragm as these can go 'baggy' with time......

As Pete said, its strange that there seems to have been a fair amount of work to redesign, manufacture and implement the new gear change for very little gain.....

still, if standard, wont have large mainshaft tip but will be an inch longer☹️

yes, although the tip was a weak point the layshaft and its bearings (another weak area) plus the maincase roller bearings are all the same in both types of gearboxes. I believe the single rail mainshaft is longer by an inch (at least in the non OD) but dont know what benefits, if any, this offers.....

I think Rimmers and many others do the VAT thing because there are businesses (restorers and workshops) who buy parts (and consequently transportation) without it added. They do show prices with and without VAT but the postage always has to have it added on afterwards. Ebay doesnt need to do this as the vast majority of its customers are private individuals.....

Especially a free download one😍

Although it sounds like this problem is solved I can recommend the use of an ally Civic rad in a Vitesse. I just bonded the required ally angle on to the sides of a 3 row rad (cost 50quid on ebay) using epoxy metal and bolted it into place using the original fixing points - if anything I went over the top as I should have used less aluminium and of a thinner grade. I did have to use a couple of short lengths of ally tube to match up the hose connections but the result is working extremely well.

yes it mustnt be run with the trigger hitting the sensor but also the gap cant be too big as then the magnetic pulses might not be strong enough. I believe its just possible that with a certain gap the triggering might be intermittent so firing some cylinders and not others.....