Alex59

Thanks everyone for yours answers

Thanks 68vitesse for your answer. For sure if you can reuse the original part, it's the best option. But it's not my case If the only problem is the grove cut for the circlip, it can certainely be reproduce on a lathe.

Maybe i read the thread to fast... Can anyone confirm that reference rms8n --> SKF MJ1NR --> RHP are the same than the 104433

Hello, I would like to know if somebody have some reference for good quality bearing to replace the 104433 bearing of the gearbox I found this thread but no real answer. Thanks a lot for your all your replies Alex.

Yes i have that tube from the front carb to the rear one

Thanks everyone for your answers. I checked again the noise of the carbs and it's pretty close...next time i'll have to clean my hear. But I think i will have to dismount the carbs and made a joints kit to refurbish the carbs (have some leaks too) I have a 150CDS a the front, the second one, have no number but it's a CD one.

Thanks Johny for your answer, i'll check for the movement of the piston. The synchronisation wasn't much out of adjustement. The carb joint to the inlet manifold are new, i replaced it when i have to repair the inlet manifold (banjo break).

Hello, Today i set the synchronisation of the carbs on my triumph vitesse MKII. At the same flow rate (+/- 5kg/h) one of my carb is quiet and the other one make noise like an hoover. Do you have any idea of what can cause this difference between the 2 carbs. Thanks for your answer Alex

On the drawing you posted, the spacer and shims are N°36 & 37.

The spacer is not the inner oil seal, the spacer is an annular metal piece (like a fat shim). A picture of a spacer (found on another forum) The inner seal is on the picture see below . This diagram is avaible on the workshop manual p 3.124

i colorized this sheet when i changed my donuts. I did it in order to undertsand why the end float is needed and how to set it. On this draft, you will see if the spacer and shims are not enough, you will tight on the bearing and you may damage the ball of the bearing. If the spacer and the shims are too importants, the balls of the bearings will not be in contact with their races. And you will have a possible rotation of the hub (top to bottom). That's why the end float is so important.

You'll find some shims if the bearings need it to respect the end float of the hub. Sometime when you are lucky the bearings doesn't need it. Depends of the tolerance of the bearings, of the half shaft and the hub. Or maybe someone before you, work ont the hub and don't care about the end float.

Thanks for your answers

Sorry, i own a vitesse MKII 1971

Hi everybody, i'd like to change the big panel under the dashboard, but i don't want to buy the panel, i'd like to do it by my own. My panel is in very poor condition, some parts is missing. So i'd like to know if somebody own the skecth of this part and can share it. Thanks for your answer Alex

I tried to contact them few month ago when i had to change my rotoflex. But no answer. I tried by uisng the contact page. Maybe the phone contact should have better result but my english is too bad to have a phone conversation (technical). Maybe someone else had a better experience

I tried differents speed and it’s pretty good between 1500 & 2500 rpm, above 2500 rpm the indication is not correct. For exemple 4000rpm indicate indicates on the tacho instead on 3500. So i’ll send it for a rebuilt.

Thanks Pete and Roger for your answer. I tried this Pete's tips and it worked. But how is it possible the needle rotate on the axis ? Does it means, i have to send it for a rebuild? Alex

So I have checked my tacho with an electric drill and a laser counter rev. When my electric drill is close to 612 rpm, the tacho indicate 3000 Rpm instead of 2150 / 2200 rpm. So i have to send my tacho to refurbish it.

Thank you, so this weekend i'll check it

Thanks thescrapman for your answer. Can you confirme the 282 rpm of the cable to indicates 1000rpm on the tacho. (tacho 3.55/1)

Hello, i've the same issue on my vitesse. The read on the speedometer seems fine, when i'm driving at 60mph on the speedo, i obtain 56/57 mph with gps. But when i'm driving at 60/62mph, my tacho indicates 4000rpm with the OD on. I bought a laser counter rev which confirm the difference between the engine rpm and tacho indication. But to confirm that my tacho is out of order i'd like to check if the rpm of the cable is correct (maybe the gear under the ignition system is not correct) So Can you give me the rpm of the cable in order to indicate 1000rpm on the tacho. My tacho is a jaeger 3.55-1. So i think the cable have to do 1000/3.55 =282 rpm but i'm not sur. To check the cable rpm i'll cut a disc in cardboard, put a reflective sticker on it and use the laser counter rev. Thanks for your answer Alex

Maybe the master cylinder is empty because Jeff didn't obstruct the brake pipe when he had dismantle the rear axle.

Thanks to your help, the first side is reassemble.

When i bought my car, i went to a restaurant in Watton at Stone "THE BULL", and it was run by a French woman. It was funny to be in the Middle of England to found a restaurant ran by a french. I'll apply french nationality but i've some work on the car before to be abble to do it