iana

Is there a really basic guide to cleaning / service a stromberg cd150. I’m also thinking that’s shows all the components.

I think I’ll probably remove the carb and clean it out. Annoyingly I doubt I’ll get the bits before xmas now. I guess I’ll be back with more questions over Xmas.

Checked the choke, the first one is no choke, second is maximum choke and the third is the extra by moving the linkage on the side of the carb

Just had a tinker and see what I can work out (not very successfully). If I take the air filter off and spray open the accelerator flap and spray ezi start in it will fire but will not run. All very odd as the car used to be brilliant at starting. Only difference is before it was parked on the flat now it’s on a slope. Checked the fuel pump and that is pumping fuel when cranking. Could it be as simple as crud in the float chamber? Picking up on Pete’s comment re Thames barrier type that makes sense seeing it now. It is lifting the needle not by a small amount.

It’s a stromberg cd150

Swapped the plugs over today, the plugs were a on the black side, the plugs spark ok, will replace the dizzy cap and leads in due course. Checked the fuel pump and it does pump (on turning the engine over and on the priming lever). Car turns over well but will not fire. Not sure how to check the carb but despite cranking the engine over there’s no smell of fuel on the plugs - I’m guessing the carb could be blocked. It’s a Stromberg, the choke doesn’t seem to be working properly (the movement is limited) and needs checking.

It’s running points, fresh fuel, Im going to replace the plugs when it’s dry and see if that makes a difference.

First decentish day for weeks, ideal time to run the herald or so I thought. It won’t start, turns over nicely but will not run, it started and then just died. Out with the easy start and it tries to fire but will not run. Now it’s raining! I’ll swap the plugs next week and charge the battery. Any other pointers?

i logged into the shop a while ago to buy a 13/60 ignition pack - on search engine £40, on site £60 but log in to get member price and its £57. phoned up to be told its correct so i sourced elsewhere. I need to order a replacement exhaust - non member price £207.58, memberprice exactly the same. why is it so difficult on the club shop

Thanks all that makes a lot more sense than what’s currently on the car, I’ll follow the pictures and form something along those lines.

i need to replace the fuel line (hoses) on the estate, there is a couple of rubber hoses in the fuel feed to the pump, but im trying to find out the correct route / material for the fuel pipe from the pump to the carb as its currently a long length of fuel hose and i would have expected it to be solid pipe - is there a decent diagram showing the route

Colin thanks for that, I’m sure I can get something that would look similar to that

Colin don’t suppose you have a picture of how they Seoul’s have looked (ie was the joint left as black rubber (in which case I could use a black roofing sealant and it would be similar in colour) or was it over painted? Thanks

Thanks Pete for the suggestions, would you then put a bead of sealer on the exposed edge? (Not sure what but something that’s weather resistant).

Should have made it clear, it’s the joint at the rear of the car (back of rear quarter lights) just checked the canley site and on the parts list the seal is listed as 609837/8 so assume it would have been a rubber gasket, the part is no longer available

I need to remake the seal / joint between the roof and the tub on the herald estate, what material is suggested? Not sure what was originally used but it looks like a mastic that’s now got too hard

Colin thanks for the response, the brakes seem fine, no binding and I guess you’re right in that it all needs to bed in and then I can re-adjust. it’s been a long time since we used the vitesse

Just been out in the car for a final shake down drive (about 2 miles) before our first camping weekend, when I went to put the hub caps on the passenger side wheel was warm, not hot but noticeably warmer than the drivers side, is this a sign that the brakes are slightly out on the passenger side (I did check them and they rotated freely as did the driver side) any pointer of what to check gratefully received

Pete, you’re correct I need to sort it properly, Im going to order a new cable and clips as the old one is manky (this task may have to wait till October now, the handbrake is ok, it could just be better.

I’ve replaced the rear handbrake lever and replaced the secondary cable as the old one was seized solid and I couldnt adjust it. Pete I’d clocked a post you did previously about the correct settings and it made me check the relay lever position and I’ve discovered it’s not at the 15 degrees as the manual it’s more like 10 degrees after Id worked out a way of checking it (I actually think a previous owner adjusted the handbrake on the primary cable (it looks like there’s very little adjustment left on the handbrake lever) I’m just curious whether there’s much improvement to be gained by correcting the angle. The spring on the primary cable is also out of shape as if it’s overtightened.

I’ve spent a weekend tinkering with the vitesse to get ready for a show, the handbrake required adjusting and it’s now 9 clicks to lock the wheels, so I thought I’d adjust to improve, and I’ve checked the relay lever and I reckon that’s at about 8-10 degrees, is it worth the effort to correct or am I better just fine tuning the cable and perhaps get another turn on the clevis bracket?

Johny - thanks quick blast up the road and a couple of operations of the heater control and it’s now toasty warm heater.

I’m sure I’ve read a post on here about airlocked heatets however I can’t find it. I’ve been busy getting the cars ready for a couple of shows and decided to change the antifreeze in the vitesse as it was too weak a mixture, anyways all changed and refilled now can’t get the heater to run warm air so I’m assuming an airlock somewhere - any simple tips to unblock?

After considering the various options for replacement wheels I’ve decided to go with getting the existing ones sand blasted and painted, the wheels on the herald are an off white colour but the vitesse is white. Does anyone know the ral code or colour code (I have seen it referenced as ral 9001)

Yes - I had an issue with the side lights originally (drivers side wasn’t earthing) and I fixed a earth wire to the light and earthed to chassis, sounds like more earthing required