Colin

Thanks, Apologies for being such a whipper-snapper! Turned 65, the 1st March just gone. I'm not one of these who says "it's before my time", but on this occasion, it went over my head!! 😀

Flintstone??

Slippery slope discussion!! 😁

Da Doo Ron Ron Ron, then?!!😁

Long time no-touch this subject, chaps (last year?); Took the Old Girl out for run today. After all last year's shenanigans trying to get some heat, which you may recall and after all the flushing, I did then get some heat then and also inboard today. Strangely though the passenger side vent, when tested with hand over it, was delivering demonstrably more heat (still not stonkingly hot, though b.t.w.) than my driver's side. I know both delivery pipes to be clear. Can anyone think of a reason? I know there will be several. Questionable theories I can conjour up are; - Did I only manage to shift solids in the matrix on last flushing to one side of the matrix, so one (the passenger) side is enjoying better through flow? - Having not repaired/augmented/better insulated the heater output to cabin pipe 'foam' (which is pretty crusty to be fair), is the journey airflow through causing one side to be considerably cooler as it is cooled by journey airflow - and rthe driver's side being the one to suffer? All thoughts welcome! Cheers, C.

👌🙂 Bonne chance!!

No-one can fault you for effort, and expertise Morgana!! And Congrats for locating said company! Happy Ending! 😃

Well . . . Whilst still rubbing down & hand-painting the heater box in situ, I took these shots. You can see the 'foam' is properly crusty. And the plenum, flat as a pancake (ignore a fluid pipe in the pic)!

That's brilliant. Thank you so much. Extremely helpful. Best, C.

Thanks, both. Good info as always. Yes, Colin - those I've seen don't look right at all. Gonna have to go back through the manuals for the exploded diagram info. Having never removed it or its component parts, the point at which it disappears through into the bulkhead is a big of a mystery to me. I assume in reality, I'd not be able to fit a 'correct' replacement without it all being dismantled? 68 Vitesse:- that's really good info too - especially the diagram - do you have a better resolution version I might be able to enlarge and use in my discussions with potential repairers. My e-address is no secret . . . Cheers, Both. C.

Thanks for answers to both issues; Chaps, Soz yet again that my phone had not alerted me to your responses. Yep - body off, ideal. I'm not going down that route if I can possibly avoid it. Gaiter - OK - thanks - noted. Moving on - in situ - I've rubbed back to clean steel, Jenolited the heater box then hand painted it. Adequate. The plenum behind it is as flat as a pancake. Someone remind me what it's for, please (sorry, Colin L). To what does it attach and its purpose? Sadly, I noted a bit of flimsy, soft bulkhead steel adjacent to it - but for me, the removal of the box will have to wait if I want to get to that and fit a repair panel. Further, the 'foam' seal 'tween the box and into the car at the bulkhead is really dry and would probably crumble if I were to poke at it - but looking on the 'net, replacements are much thinner than the thing that's in situ. Did the 1200 have a thicker unit? I must be losing heat through it. I could wrap silvered self-adhesive tape round - consolidate it and hope for less heat loss. But I guess even if I thought I'd found a suitable new replacement, the box'd have to come out in order to replace? Personally at this point, with any suitable replacement, I'd simply slice clean through and make the joint that way, using some kind of sealant to fix the slice. Thoughts appreciated as usual! Best, C.

The Good Doctor maybe has a point? Solex are French, aren't they/weren't they?? So unlikely to have used our old imperial measures?? Please shoot that down if incorrect - I haven't googled them!!🙂

Chaps - Sorry for bunging these separate issues in 'General' . . . 1) With the more recent renovation, I bought a nasty shiny, ill-fitting (as ir turned out) handbrake gaiter which I want to remove without slicing it off/out. I have one I am hoping will be an improvement. What's the removal and reverse installatiin technique? Hairdryer heating? Will it catch on the button finger-shaped end rubber?? 2) During said last renovation (not full - not body-off), certain chassis work was done but since then I have spotted other elements requiring attention. In the past (in my 35 yr tenure), front centre and rear outriggers have all been either replaced or repair sections let in, without the dreaded body-off scenario. So the one specific area I can see a problem with at the mo' is outer join of front o/s outrigger to front o/s side rail. And I know the n/s 'B' post support bracket is in need of replacement. I'm guess I'm just asking if such jobs are 'do-able' by someone with the nouse & experience without the purist restorer saying, "sorry chum, it's a body off job", given that the latest renov saw new carpets glued in etc etc. Thanks. As usual, all thoughts gratefully received. Best, C.

At 143k miles, I'm not too surprised . . . 🙂

🤣🤣 it also seems to distribute itself quite nicely by spreading down the main spars, so actually I could do with another tray further back, too!! Before anyone panics, it's only minor drips, occasionally! 😉

I inherited some cat litter trays from my cat-mad Aunt. I use mine as a drip-tray (yes I know, the engine shouldn't drip). 😁

Chaps - All true words. I remember the small waste disposal place just outside where I lived in Burgundy taking pretty much everything and yes, the guy there would help! Some Councils here declared they'd take your composting material for a price but they'd then sell you back bags of compost, discounted. That didn't last long! 😁

Looks like it varies place to place . . . but the news that somd types bio-degrade is encouraging. On another note; is it true aluminium rads disperse heat quicker & more efficiently than our good ol' steel (???)/ conventional originally fitted units? And yes, I realise if I were to go that route I'd not be able to use the Soda Crystal system cleansing method!! 😉😉 Best, C.

68Vitesse:- I too think many local 'tips', may not take it . . . I confess to not having tried OR asked (yet), but certainly intend to. Cheers All! C.

Chaps, Bit of aside-liner, this one; Probably many of you like me, do not have a functioning stop-cock drain valve at bottom of Rad.. So to drain it or flush the system, the bottom hose comes off. With the best will in the world, I find it hardly capturable and it goes everywhere. Now, I AM like most people, conscious of the state of our environment and occasionally feel guilty at running a 50 year old non-eco friendly car. Last few times I've had to do such jobs, I did it in high Summer and hoped the hot sloping drive and a slow crawl into the gutter would evaporate most of its volume before soaking into the watercourses or earth. I haven't yet - but I guess I will, ask my local garage how they deal with disposal of anti-freeze and wondered what other members do with theirs. Obvs, old oil goes to the tip . . . Now to charge this phone. Will check replies later! Best, C.

Hi Morgana, Wow, you've got the gear allright! Were that me, finding the 34 a better fit, (and it tightened down acceptably) I'd just assume that the 34 was cutting it's own new thread in the bore as it screwed through. In my world, that's be job done!! However, you're absolutely right - what a Faff, with anythung else, not least my trusty butterflies! Best, C.

Good info Pete; Addendum; My Solex, fitted to my 1970 1147 saloon, is date stamped 1963!!

Hi Morgana. Confession time:- I did not contact Mick D - on the basis that (some of) the original screws seem to have stripped the thread in the carb body (must be very soft steel and I must've been over zealous in my tightenings during previous dismantling and subsequent assemblies. At the time I was out of country and inclined to use anything which would do the job (e.g. hold the two parts together tightly) and I used some bolts close to the screw size which had butterfly nuts in the stripped thread holes. These have done the job all these years! Were I to purchase a set from the part numbers given above, I'd still find I couldn't tighten in at least two of the thread, so a bit pointless. As I recall, the screws were viable still (not with mullered thread), but had clearly cleaned out the threaded body. So, what does one do . . . ? I'm sure the more capable mechanic engineers here will say cut a new thread in the lower carb body and match with a suitable screw. I'm not that au fait with such practices & have always worked round such things! Let us know how you get on!! At .10p each, a set from M Dolphin can't be a bad thing to have?? Best, C.

Gully & Chaps:- I'll take it, if this is a record! Similarly, I feel a twit for having completely forgotten about (out of sight out of mind) the u/j . . . to the point that when mentioned (here comes the Miranda clause), I couldn't even conceive of mine having one!! And yet, I HAVE done the job before!!! I'm only 64, too . . . starts early, doesn't it?!? 🤣🤣

Literally, 'Boom Boom'. God bless Basil Brush! 😁