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Darren Groves

TSSC AO
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Posts posted by Darren Groves

  1. Right from the start I have felt it was a gauge reading high, but the difference in temps at the top and the bottom of the rad seemed odd.

    The 2 senders I have used on it are black near the spade connector, but the one in my Spitfire project is red...may try that one to see if the colour does actually mean something.

  2. Trial fitting the Semi-Sport exhaust on my MK4 Spitfire with the fitting kit from the club shop (body isn't on the car yet)...are there only 2 mounting points, one from the Diff carrier and the other from the boot floor?

    Also the hanger from the diff carrier seems a bit low (see pic), is this as it should be or should it be higher?

    Darren

    DSC_7567.jpg

  3. 2L MK1 Vitesse recently purchased (not by me) and the temp gauge reads around 2/3 to 3/4 when up to normal temp. Owner has had radiator recored, fitted new 82° Thermostat, temp sender, hoses, heater valve and flushed rest of waterways but still reads hot.

    It's come to me to have a variety of jobs done, but to look at this also. The engine bay didn't seem particularly hot, so far we have tried alternative Thermostat, Temp Sender, & gauge. Replaced voltage stabiliser. The top hose gets warm, but the bottom hose is noticeably cooler. I've used a infrared thermometer and it confirms the top hose & top of radiator is much warmer that the bottom hose and bottom of radiator. Hoses into and out of Smith's Heater Valve are hot and you get heat inside the car.

    Took off the water pump expecting to see it in poor condition, but that looked in good shape.

    When changing the thermostat, there was no water in the top hose, the natural water level is at the thermostat. This is a thing in both Herald & Vitesse as the radiator filler cap is lower that the highest point of the cooling system, so I did raise the front and run with the cap off and fill as much as I could, but again no difference.

    Am I missing something obvious here or is there anything else worth looking at?

    Darren

     

     

     

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  4. 1 hour ago, rogerguzzi said:

    Hello Darren 

                            Just ignore the blue connection as it is not used 

    I have one fitted but do not think it works on high speed (and why would you want it to?)

    I think it is a good bit of kit had mine for at least 3 years.

    Have you got the single wipe option on your car(mine is a Spitfire 1500) if so you can set the timer by using that.

    You just give it a flick for one wipe then count how long you want the interval for or watch the rain on the screen and flick again(I think I have remembered that right!)

    Roger

    Hi Roger,

    Thanks for the reply but not sure it's that simple....the only connections on a switch on a single speed wiper set-up is a wire from the motor and then a wire to earth on the other side of the switch, all the switch does is provide the earth. There is no live to the switch as per the 2 speed motor and on a single speed one what would go to the 'SW' terminal on the Smart Screen?

    The Club Shop get these units from the MGOC, they say it can be done but don't know how and the guy that makes them does it in his spare time and doesn't reply to emails or answer his telephone....

    Cheers
    Darren

     

  5. Thanks, I guessed it was 1/4" given my Herald was (before EFI). I was only a little unsure as the outlet from the pipe is 5/16". The chassis pipe clips listed on Canleys & Rimmers were for 1/4" so will stick to that.

    Cheers

     

  6. 6 minutes ago, Spitfire6 said:

     That angle is less than ideal.

    Long curly hose with a loop would work fine & look Kak. A bit like an engine driven cooling fan.

    Reweld the aluminium?  loop looking an easy option.

    Cheers,

    Iain.

     

     

    The guy doing the work is an accomplished fabricator, simple job for him he says and will do for £30....an ugly flexi-hose would be over £10, seemed like an easy decision.

    Cheers
    Darren

  7. I reckon even with a flexi-hose it would be an awkward fit at best, so have taken the radiator to a local guy to reposition the top hose connector so it's more inline with the thermostat housing.  Bottom hose fits fine.

    Darren

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  8. On 11/02/2019 at 12:10, RogerH said:

    Hi Dave,

              this is a tip from another forum for your symptoms.

    Press the brake pedal down and then jam into position with a length of wood. leave for 24 hours.

    Possible cause on new calipers and may develope on older ones - the caliper piston seal becomes or is too stiff. When the piston is pushed out it deforms the seal.

    When the pressure is release the seal pulls the piston back rather than simply releasing the pressure/contact.

    Doing the above may allow the seal to slowly return to its normal position with the piston that bit further out.

     

    Roger

    Another method is take out the pads and depress the pedal until the piston comes out as far as it can, but without popping out, I wedged in a thick spanner to stop this. This gets the seal back into position and stops it pulling the pain back... Just done it on aTVR with recon calipers, common problem these days.... 

    Darren

     

  9. So I have finally fitted this radiator, all fine but as mentioned above the top hose is a bit of a problem. Not a tight fit, but the hose is just too short and whilst you can just about get a jubilee clip on either end it's worrying close to the edge. 

    Anyone else fitted one of these reads and had this issue? 

    Is there a hose out there with the same ID but longer? 

    Darren

     

     

  10. 10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

    A call to dave twigger at od spares  rugby will give you the lining dimensions

    Thanks Pete, I spoke to Dave, he's a very helpful guy.

    For those that need the information, the measurement from the outside to outside of the inner & outer lining on a J Type OD should be 0.285", mine is almost double that so would never have gone back together. The process is to fit an overthick lining then machine back to the correct thickness, so the company that done it for me are going to take it back and do it.

    Darren

     

  11. I decided to get the cone clutch relined by a local company, it's come back a looks a lot thicker than before around 4.5mm, I can't remember what it was previously but I seem to recall it was under 2mm, but I can't be sure. I did mention to the guy when I collected it looked thick, but he said they've done them before and that's how it's supposed to be, but just doesn't feel right to me. What's the general consensus on whether I should just fit or get it redone?

    Darren

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  12. As the OD unit is of unknown heritage I thought I'd take it apart to see if there were any obvious problems. This is the cone clutch, what is the thoughts on the condition of the lining material. Good enough to go again or best to replace?

    Sorry the pictures aren't great, the lighting was poor when I took them.

    Darren

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