Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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If anyone is looking for a better brake light switch than the cheap plastic ones all the traders sell that normally self destruct instantly, then this is one is a perfect fit.....
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F281855443589
Darren
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10 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
Those those are good. Fitted them on my Vitesse and. 2.5PI. Not hard at all.
Herald / Spitfire ones are slightly different (he does them too). Price has gone up significantly though.
Don't think this is what Darren means though.
Nick
Actually that was what I was thinking of but struggling to remember exactly , thought they were a good idea last time I saw them but then completely forgot about them.
I have contacted him and he did used to do them for the Herald/Spitfire, but sales were poor so no more I’m afraid, though he does have a single pair left which I’m hoping to get from him ?
Darren
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A while back I remember reading about an alternative type of front wheel bearing, not the usual taper type.
Can't recall much detail other than the kit required shims and was torque up to a set figure rather the the usual nip tight then back off as we all do.
Anyone know what I'm talking about......??
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Car's back on the road after being poorly for a couple of weeks, so can finally report back on the brakes. I decided to fit a larger 0.7" bore M/C (Vitesse/GT6), got all the air out the system after a bit of a struggle by using a Vizibleed (no helper available), leaving the cross-drilled discs on for a bit and will revisit that later and try some Vitesse/GT6 jobbies. Certainly the best/most reassuring the brakes have ever felt in my 20 years of ownership, so has been a worthwhile upgrade.....
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Just a little update on this topic, in the absence of a helper I gave up on the Eezibleed and bought a Vizibleed instead, this worked a treat.
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8 hours ago, thescrapman said:
A princess calipers will not bolt to a GT6 upright, you need type 12 Spitfire calipers mounts to replace the type 16 ones.
They're on Herald (Type 14) uprights and fit just fine.
6 minutes ago, hugh said:also beware princess callipers with 13" wheels the corners need grinding away for clerance on most wheels
I've got JBW Minilights, it's a close fit but nothing touches.
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Thought that would be the case, will stick to standard one.
Thank you.....
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14 minutes ago, clive said:
Capri discs are the same size as GT6. The vented capri discs I use fit perfectly with std spaced GT6 calipers. 245mm from memory.
So in theory then a GT6 disc will be fine with the Princess Calipers? Spacing might need sorting?.....If that's the case, will a GT6 Disc fit a Herald hub?
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The discs that came with this kit are a larger diameter and are thicker than standard....Garth seemed to think they were modified Capri discs supplied by EBC, but EBC say not. Capri discs are easy enough to source and I can get them re-drilled, but finding something off the shelf would be easier.
The kit was so cheap that I'm happy to give it a try, just wanted to ditch the cross drilled discs that came with it as they are a bit noisy I find.
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From the traders websites:
Our high ratio ‘quick’ steering rack assemblies give lock-to-lock in 2.6 turns compared to the standard 3.5 turns, providing quicker ‘turn-in’ on the bends for a more responsive feel.
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Our quick rack has a high ratio pinion giving you lock-to-lock in only 2.5 turns, compared to the standard 3.5. -
Tried that, still nothing....I ended up using the Eezibleed just to refill the MC whist I pumped the pedal.
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Some years back the TSSC Club Shop used to sell a 4 pot caliper conversion (see image). The brake calipers & pads were Austin Princess, but trying to determine what the discs are as they are not standard. HQ don't seem to know and it pre-dates Garth's time there, so he's not 100% sure.
Anyone have these fitted and know where to source the discs?
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Normally I bleed my brakes using the traditional 2 man method, but thought I'd get a Gunson Eezibleed kit for convenience. Got an airtight seal everywhere at the recommended 15psi, but when I opened a bleed nipple it pushed a small amount through and then just stopped, that's in all 4 corners. It should work at a lower PSI than I used, so wondered if anyone has had a similar experience? Does this indicate a MC fault? Or does it just not work as intended on some MC's?....
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So thinking about getting a new steering rack....couple of the traders do High Ratio/Quick Racks...like the idea of less turns lock to lock but in practice is it a good or bad thing?
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Car now running fine.
Cleaned both battery connections, battery to body connections, removed and cleaned the engine earth strap, replaced spade connectors on both coil connections and dizzy, turned her over and she spluttered into life and ran.....on 2 cylinders.
But once I'd cleaned out the solidified fuel from the float bowls, she ran very sweet.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
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2 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
its worth a check that the ign switch is actually passing the voltage down the white coil feed
nothing in = nothing out just a thought
Pete
Will do....
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In answer to some of the replies above. We had another car in the Workshop with a 25D Distributor which we new worked fine, so ended up robbing points, condenser, earth lead and coil from that so I know the parts on there should be good.
The battery has had a charge overnight so I will get cleaning up and securing the loose spade conenctors and main battery cables and earths....
Many thanks
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I have a confession, this question actually relates to a MG B not a Triumph...but a pretty universal issue I'm sure. I haven't owned a car with points for over 25 years, so I'm asking this in the hope I have overlooked something to check, so here goes:
The car ran OK, was parked up for a few weeks then wouldn't start. Managed to get it to start by just cleaning the old points, but it wouldn't rev or idle, so the owner sourced plugs, points, Condenser & a Rotor Arm....fitted all these and then had no spark at all.
Dizzy cap off, ignition on and manually open the points and there was hardly a spark and that was inconsistent. So we got another set of points and condenser and that fixed the this problem, great I thought. Dizzy cap back on, crank it over and still no spark at the plugs.....off with the cap, manually check the spark, still good so crank it over with the cap off, points opening and closing OK but again barely a spark and it's inconsistent. So seems that the spark at the points is fine if the car is not being cranked over but poor when it is. I have found several spade connectors that were barely making contact and the battery connections were very crusty, so will clean and recheck those today, but any other suggestions?
Thanks.
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8 hours ago, Nick Jones said:
but a good GE is lovely - even better with a mk 3 Spit cam.
Got that combination and can agree with Nick.
Darren
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Apologies for not feeding back/acknowledging your replies, life is a little hectic at the moment....
On 04/04/2018 at 6:38 AM, clive said:We're the driveshafts new? Or checked for straightness?.
Plan b, disconnect prop and run car up to speed. See if it vibrates. Then disconnect driveshafts and reconnect prop. May help pin the issue down.
New prop may still be the issue. Or alignment?
One driveshaft was new, the other I reused.....did I check for straightness? Eerr, no! Guess that's pretty impossible now they're on the car.
On 04/04/2018 at 9:02 AM, JohnD said:The flanges either end of the propshaft have two pairs of boltholes, spaced so that each can only go two ways, so there are four ways in which it can be fitted.
One is ideal, one is terrible, two are so-so. May be worth marking up the shaft and flanges, and trying the alternatives.
I have improved vibration in the past by doing this, so have tried 2 of the 4 possible positions so far. Pos 1. Vibration from 50mph onward. Pos 2 Vibration from 60mph onward and not quite so bad, so some improvement. Will try the other 2 when I get a chance and then select the best.
On 15/04/2018 at 5:48 PM, Nick Jones said:It is almost certainly the propshaft, so-called balanced or not. Every propshaft ever fitted to my Herald or Vitesse has vibrated, even brand new, bespoke, twice balanced ones and the only cure has been to balance on the car with two jubilee clips. Not sure if this is a propshaft angles thing (both cars always had non-standard gearboxes). Was also an issue on my PI, which was completely standard though to be fair I never did have that pro-balanced, just did it on the car.
Worth checking that the UJs have no free play and move very freely in both axes. One stiff axis is enough to cause vibration.
Nick
UJ's seem fine and if John's suggestion of trying the 4 prop positions don't work I will try the jubilee clip trick.
On 04/04/2018 at 9:07 AM, Pete Lewis said:Whilst john is on propshafts are the yokes phased correctly
Looking down the shaft The tube end yokes should be in line
Pete
Yep!
On 04/04/2018 at 9:05 AM, Pete Lewis said:Does it do it if you knock it out of gear
Clutch damper springs can make hard to find vibros
On the OD the Dtype has specific timing best run marks on the 3 planets they must be aligned with marks on the carrier , on assembly
They are hard to find there are pics in the wsm.
this makes sure all 3 take the same drive load, if wrong can cause driveline vibration . the vibration wheelspeed
As you have played with wheels is the vibro wheel rotation speed or prop rotation speeds ?
Pete
Vibration still there if in gear or not and seems to be roads speed related, though a little difficult to tell. Living rural it's not that easy to find a stretch of road where I can get to the speeds I need to recreate it and then experiment.
Thanks again and I will keep playing given some free time!
Darren
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Have been living with vibration at higher speeds for a number of years now, but after the winter jobs seems to be a little worse so is getting a little tiresome. Vibration starts to get noticeable at around 50pm and worsens the faster you get, and it’s felt through the car itself, nothing through the steering.
Have had both steel & alloy wheels on the car, recently fitted 2 new tyres, balanced all 4 wheels and rotated them but still no better. The propshaft was new about 3 years ago and of course came balanced, that didn’t help. I’m pretty convinced that the vibration is worse when the OD is engaged, but even if disengaged it’s still there.
This winter I rebuilt the rear driveshafts and replaced the bearings and seals on the diff.
Could this be gearbox related or should I be looking elsewhere. Any suggestions, other than wheel & propshaft balancing?
Darren
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Is there any benefit fitting a Vitesse/GT6 Gearbox in a Herald/Spitfire, and if so what are they and what’s differences are there to overcome.
I ask purely out of interest as someone said it wa a good upgrade, but couldn’t really explain why.
Darren
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From my experience the fir tree clips that are supplied don’t hold that well. I use spire clips, self tappers and repair washers.
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The club shop do sell a decent alternative made by Cambiare, not on shop website that I can see. Mine was one I found on eBay from some eurobox, has lasted well so far.
Why so cheap?
in Cooling System
Posted
So why is this radiator so cheap?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253724675367