Darren Groves
-
Posts
791 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
20
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by Darren Groves
-
-
Hi Karl,
The fuel filter would be better positioned where the fuel line exits the tank, that way it will protect your newly rebuilt pump as well as the carbs.
Keep up the good work.
Darren
-
This is progress, honestly....
-
1
-
-
12 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Darren , do a quicky to Bern to fill a gap in a Courier
Pete,
Already with Bern, the chap whose idea it was had written a very comprehensive article, was part of using a Fiesta relay to add intermittent wipers etc. so should be in The Courier soon.
Darren
-
Can't claim the credit for the idea, a fellow North Devon member came up with it, it works a treat.
Darren
-
16 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Quick guess , barometric sensor
Not used on austin 7s
Or Triumphs until you meddle
It’s a pressure switch from a Hotpoint washing machine...
...allows you to use your manual washer pump to operate an electric washer pump.
Darren
-
No need for Aspirin just yet, but I have completed the loom on the back for the back of the dashboard. I've added connectors at various points so if I need to remove the dash at any time in the future, I just need to unplug the 4 connectors leaving everything else in place.
I will also be using this:
I'm sure some of you may recognise what it is.
Darren -
I fitted a new wiring harness when I first bought the car, so that's been in for nearly 20 years. All still fine, but over the years I've added no end of bits and bobs, but everything piece meal so it was getting all a bit out of control under the dash. Doing the EFI conversion last winter added a whole heap more wiring, so something had to be done to tidy it up.
Pictures below with the dash removed just show's what a mess it was, then with just the EFI wiring left in place.
This time I am going to custom build the harness with thin-wall cable to bring down the bulk and bring fuses & relays all into one area rather than dotted around.
Going to be plenty of head scratching this winter I can see.
Darren
-
www.autosparks.co.uk do wiring harnesses for lots of classics, all complete with bulb holders etc. and ready to fit. You'll have to work out where it all connects from the wiring diagram, but you can't go far wrong.
Darren
-
1
-
-
Done....
-
Diagram below shows how it should fit, never really understood how it was supposed to keep the water out the boot though.
Done away with drain taps on my tanks years ago, just have a big grommet in the hole instead. The drain taps are just an aggravation as they make it hard to remove/refit and nobody dares use them as you know they'll just snap off!
Darren
-
The Forum is completely independent, but Main Site & Shop should be one and the same and is if I login on the main site first the follow the link to the shop, but you should be able to go direct to the shop and login, but I can't.....
Darren
-
So if I log into the main TSSC website here: http://www.tssc.org.uk/, then take the link in the top left to the club shop I am also logged in there and can see member prices.
If I take a direct link to the shop here https://shop.tssc.org.uk/ or direct to a product (without first logging on to the main sight) I get the warning Please remember to login to receive member prices, click on the login link, enter exactly the same details as I do on the main site, and I get told I'm not a recognised user.
Anyone else have this problem?
Not a big issue I know, but tedious all the same.
Darren
-
I was contacted by a very sweet old lady from down in Plymstock, Devon who has recently had to give up driving and wanted help selling her 1979 Dolomite 1850, which she has owned from new. Anyone looking for a bit of a project? So here are the good and bad points...
2 Owners from new, but same family at same address
Genuine 54000 miles
Tahiti Blue
I collected it as a non-runner, but just needed a fuel pump and it now starts on the key.
Everything on the car seems to work, except the wipers which don't park.
MoT expired July 2016It does have some issues, which are:
Bodywork
3 of the doors will need replacing, the other needs some repair work.
Will need a new NS Sill and repair to rear arch
Hole in boot floor where it meets the inner arches
NS front wing has had a parking bump, but would pull out easy.
Boot Lid corners need a repair
Front valance needs a repair
Inside A-Pillars also need welding
Chrome is pretty good, but some trim will need replacing.Interior
Drivers Seat is well worn
Passenger Seat has a split as does the rear seat backLoads of pictures attached and a short video of her running. I have driven her for a couple of miles and she starts, drives and stops very well.
This car is very savable and would make an excellent project.
Customer is looking for around £950, but I'm sure she will take a sensible offer.
If I can't sell it for her, then I may restore myself!
Please message me if you're interested
Video & Images below.
-
I've always used copper slip on clutch installations and have done a few, never caused a problem. The amount of grease needed and the amount of movement of the clutch plate is minimal, so tbh I don't think it would really matter what type of grease you use. There's plenty of people out there that recommended fitting them dry as any grease will collect dust & debris that could potentially cause drag.
Darren
-
Stolen from another forum:
Girling 16P Calipers
Imperial Threads - 3/8UNF bleed nipple
Piston dust seal - Type A
Girling 16PB Calipers
Imperial threads - 3/8UNF bleed nipple
Piston dust seal - Type B
Girling M16P Calipers
Metric threads - M10 bleed nipples
Piston dust seal - Type B
Darren -
Pretty sure that is a greasing point for the spline of the sliding joint.
Darren
-
Just a little copper slip on the gearbox spline, but less is more...don't go mad!
Darren
-
9 hours ago, classiclife said:
Darren.
Is your spring just worn or another issue ??
Regards.
Richard.
I have a collection of rear end noises and it looks a little saggy, so I've decided to replace bearings, UJ's and spring as part of my winter 'to do' list.
On 10/16/2017 at 7:12 AM, John Bonnett said:My recommendation would be to go direct to Owen Springs in Rotherham. They make them and you cannot do better than a Sheffield spring. In addition to the standard springs they will at no extra charge uprate to your specification. Nice people to deal with too.
Owen Springs quoted £189+VAT & Shipping.
On 10/15/2017 at 11:23 AM, Colin Lindsay said:See my post further up, they don't list Herald springs and didn't reply to my e-mail enquiry a few months ago, so I can't confirm if they sell them or not.
GB Springs I spoke to yesterday morning and waiting on a call back.
Darren
-
11 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Roger used GB on his 1500 drop him a line and see how its going , certainly very much cheaper
http://www.gbsprings.co.uk/heritage-car-springs/
Pete
8 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:See my post further up, they don't list Herald springs and didn't reply to my e-mail enquiry a few months ago, so I can't confirm if they sell them or not.
Will give them a buzz tomorrow.
Darren
-
On 10/13/2017 at 3:48 PM, Andrew said:
Hello Darren
Have you tried Fitchetts or Canley classics?
Andrew
Just in case anyone is thinking of getting a rear spring from Fitchetts, they no longer sell them....
Darren
-
18 minutes ago, Andrew said:
Hello Darren
Have you tried Fitchetts or Canley classics?
Andrew
All the usual traders list them, just wondering if anyone had experience of who's supplying good quality items or rubbish.
Thanks
Darren
-
As part of my list of winter jobs I was thinking about a new rear leaf spring. Any recommendations or places to avoid or just a matter of shopping around for the best price with the usual culprits?
Darren
-
1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
Radio not loud enough !!
Well I only started hearing it when I took the radio out, I've put it back now
May let it develope a bit....
Darren
-
Bit of an old favourite, rhythmic knocking noise from the rear of my 13/60 that changes with road speed, more noticeable when slowing down but less road/engine noise then.
Would have thought a UJ problem, but I can't detect any play in driveshaft UJ's or Prop UJ's.
No unusual noises when you spin the wheels with the car jacked up and no witness marks on prop or driveshaft to indicate something might be touching it.
Any ideas?
Darren
Winter Project
in Electrical System
Posted
I've now run most of the wiring, just the radio & heated seats (for the wife you understand!) to sort and I will be ready to connect a battery and start testing circuits to see how many I've got wrong...
.
I think I may have over engineered it a little
, but I can certainly say that everything, and I mean everything is protected. For those that might be wondering why so many relays, they are:
I have also tried to eliminate bullet connectors where possible, I'm down to just 5, 3 of those being on the fascia lamp as there was no alternative plus a couple of others where I needed to join single cables.
Once the circuits are tested, then I can wrap in harness tape to tidy up.....
Darren