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Darren Groves

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Posts posted by Darren Groves

  1. The good news is that Mike has confirmed it's a 1500 Gear set in there with a completely random input/first motion shaft, so easily sorted by fitting the correct one. Mike just needs to see the laygear to ensure it's correctly matched and we can the sort what we need.

    Darren

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. The 3 rail input shaft I have is needed, as the 3 rail 'box will be going into my Herald at some point in the future, the single rail into the Spitfire project. The correct input shafts seem to be available, so if this is all that is needed to make it fit then I'll just have to go that route. Not the end of the world, I picked up the Gearbox for a good price and expected to have to spend money on it to get it sorted.

    Darren

     

  3. 2 minutes ago, clive said:

    Darren, your worries when comparing the 2 input shafts is wholly justified. They should be the same length. Otherwise how will the bellhousing bolt to the engine?

    I would be careful before committing to expensive work....

    It's just as well I was stripping 2 gearboxes side by side, probably wouldn't have noticed until I came to fit it to the engine otherwise, that would have been a bugger. Everything else internally seems to be correct when compared to the 3 Rail/4 synch box I also have here, so it does look like someone has just swapped out the input shaft to make it fit something else....The gears and synchro rings should be with MP either today or tomorrow and I have explained the situation to him, so I'm sure he will provide an honest assessment of what's best to do.

    Darren

  4. It was sold as a Spitfire Gearbox but removed from a Dolomite 1500....the seller supplied with a Spitfire Bellhousing & Gear lever (in a separate box) and it was only when I laid the 2 input shafts down together I spotted the difference. 

    I'll go back to the seller to see if he can provide more info.

    Darren

     

  5. As advised above I got hold of a Dolly 1300 Clutch Plate so, that's all sorted.

    I've been in the process of stripping both a single and 3 rail gearbox together, but was surprised to see such a difference in size of the input shafts. I've never worked on a single rail gearbox, but was expecting them to be the same length? Is the difference in length correct?

    Darren

    DSC_0105.JPG

  6. 6 hours ago, Mjit said:

    The basic point is the end of 1972 when the Mk IV got its facelift and the dash went from black plastic to wood veneer/the fuel/temp gause needles went from pointing down to pointing up.

    Car interiors could have been modified but if it's lower than an "L" it should be short/higher should be long.  If it is an "L" then you'll need to look closer.

     

    39 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

    tape measure the shaft between flanges  long are 308mm  short are 283  

    Pete

    It is a 1972 (L reg) car with a plastic dash and I have measured the drive shafts and they are the short ones, but before the car was stripped it had a lot of positive camber at the back even when rolled to settle the suspension. I thought this might be down to seized rear trunions but all came apart easy when disassembled. Using short drive shafts instead of the long would give the same camber issues I guess, and as this is a car from the changeover year it is possible the wrong ones were fitted unknowingly by a PO.....I was just wondering if there was a definitive way of knowing which is correct for the car.

    Darren

  7. On 03/10/2018 at 21:31, 68vitesse said:

    So unless I'm confused.

    113797 used in three rail three and four syncro box and can be replaced with 148409

    150328 used in later three rail four syncro box, fitted to GT6Ill and early Dolomite 1850 and used in all single rail boxes.

    Regards

    Paul

    Sorry, still a bit confused...?.....

    Does this mean all 4 synchro gearboxes, whether 3 rail or single rail use the later synchro ring 150328 and just the 3 Rail/3 Synchro gearboxes use 113797/148409.....looking at Canleys & Rimmers website, that's what they seem to list.

    Darren 

  8. 4 minutes ago, dave.vitesse said:

    The 1500 flywheel is a bit heavy for the 1300 and no it's not a straight swop. If I remember the flywheel to crank bolts are larger on the 1500. It can be done with spacers, but not advisable.

    Dave 

    How about drilling the 1300 Flywheel to accept the 1500 Pressure Plate? Think I have read that before somewhere.....

    Darren

  9. 33 minutes ago, dave.vitesse said:

    The 1300 flywheel should be OK but as said a 1300 Dolomite clutch drive plate is required. The existing diaphragm cover should be OK if in good condition. 

    Seems the Dolly 1300 Clutch Kits are pricey compared to a Spitfire 1500. Spitfire 1500 flywheels can be picked up cheaply, so would a changing the Flywheel be a simpler long term option....is it a straight swap with the 1300 Flywheel?

    Darren

  10. Sorry should have given a little more info.......It's not for my Herald, but a 1300 MKIV Spitfire project (https://photos.app.goo.gl/M3J8mU4aRLS31o9q6) that currently has a 3 rail non-OD box, I have been offered a single rail OD box. I'll get a new prop anyway, but just wondered about clutch/flywheel arrangements. So friction plate is the fine spline 1500 type, so can I use the 1300 Pressure Plate or do I need to use a 1500 Flywheel & Pressure Plate. 

    Thanks

     

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