Darren Groves
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Posts posted by Darren Groves
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If you do have a groove in the crank, you could always fit a Speedi-sleeve
http://www.skf.com/uk/products/New-Market-Offers/SKF-SPEEDI-SLEEVE-new-generation.html
Used one these on the front of the crank, worked a treat.
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New studs and wheels on today, here's a few pics. Thanks for the comments & suggestions.
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When replacing the rear oil seal, do remember there is room for adjustment. I think the WSM method is fit loosely and measure with a feeler gauge to centralise and then tighten when even, but there may be other ways of doing it.
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After a quite bizarre response from the seller, they offered to refund me £10.00 per tyre which I accepted. A reasonable compromise I guess, but will remember to check dates before fitting next time.
The 2 tyres I took off were 12 years old, looked absolutely fine with plenty of tread. Only when they were off the rim and I could bend the sidewall that I could see how cracked they were, so if you do have some old tyres on your car, do be careful!
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Studs ordered, found them for under £1.00 each at http://www.paddockspares.com/clp9037l-stud.html
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Hi Darren, quite by coincidence my set of alloys arrived today. These are JBW Minilite style and they are 5.0J x 13 ET20 66 bore. Made to suit the Spitfire.
I've not got a car here to try them but i hope and believe they are correct.
regards
John
Just had a reply from another supplier of these wheels, they recommend ET25 not 20. I presume that we move the wheel outward a tad?
Canleys do a M12 stud replacement that is 5mm longer than standard, is that long enough or would the longer Freelander ones be better?
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Hi John - You have ordered the same make & size I've been looking at, where did you buy yours from? What colour did you go for?
Hi Aidan - A bit of research and looks as if the Freelander M12 stud (Part No. CLP9037L) is the easiest & cheapest to get hold of, so will shop around for those.
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Hi Pete,
Is the change of wheel stud essential or just a recommendation?
Who sells them?
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I'm sure I've seen this question asked before on here, but couldn't seem to find the answer.
When buying 5J x 13 alloy wheels, what would be the correct offset?
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Aidan,
An easy way of deciding what fuse to use on any application is to divide watts by voltage. So if you have 2 x 60w headlights, that's a total of 120w, so divide 120(watts) by 12(volts) gives you 10(amp). However I'd use a 15amp fuse as there may be a bit of a surge when turning on. The cable in the headlight circuit is rated to 17 amp.
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I have advertised on Ebay an as new set of MWS chrome wire wheels, spinner, spline adapters, nuts, and mallet. I would prefer them to go to a TSSC or CT member and will pull them out of the auction so long as I have no bids.
You can see them here: http://r.ebay.com/3bH2L5
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Yes use exhaust assembly paste, have removed exhausts that this has been used on several times, doesn't cause a problem.
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You need to jack up the rear of the car, remove the road wheels, then put axle stands underneath the rear hubs and lower the car back down (I normally place the stands on the lower shock mount), then adjust. If you try to adjust with no weight on the rear suspension you will never get the handbrake set up correctly. Having the hubs just hanging takes up some of the slack in the handbrake cable, so if you try to adjust at that point it will have you thinking you've adjusted it OK, but as soon the the cars back on its wheel the slack is reintroduced and the handbrake will be poor.
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Should be ok if this is correct: http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/Why-is-e-mark-approval-important-/10000000010395974/g.html
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Haven't got my copy yet, what's the reg of the car?
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A week before I bought a pair for my Merc from the same place, they were just under a year old and probably won't see their 2nd birthday before needing changing again, so that's fine.
Will see what they have to say, hopefully they'll do the right thing.....
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I fitted these a couple of years ago and as mentioned by Clive & Pete the difference was noticeable. When I went from sealed beam to halogen it was a bit of a difference, then added relays which was big difference, then changed to these and they improved the same again. Cheap too, but some people may not like the look of them, but I'd rather see where I was going.
My old pair of halogens had rusted quite a bit, these are plastic so won't. My only complaint about them is that the chrome ring doesn't clamp them in so they are slightly loose.
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So I treated myself to two new tyres for the front. Bought from an online store I've used several times before and have always been impressed with price and service. It was only after I had fitted them I decided to look at the manufacture date and was a bit surprised to see they were already well over 3 years old.
I have contacted them and I'm waiting for a reply, but what would you consider reasonable time between manufacture and being sold?
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If you need a new matrix, you an try this guy http://www.demisterman.co.uk
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Me too
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I got mine from www.autopartswarehouse.co.uk and I can't believe it's 5 years ago! Never regretted it. At that time they were very competitive for prices.
Thanks for that, seems your supplier is no longer around. Managed to find here instead: https://www.buypartsby.co.uk/buy/TRIUMPH/SPITFIRE/1.5/1978/__/101/steering-suspension/shock-absorbers/kyb-shock-absorber You have to select a Spitfire 1500, won't find them under Herald or any other Spitfire model.
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Thanks for the replies.
Any recommendations on where to buy KYB shocks?
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I wasn't considering adjustable etc. but there seems to be a dislike for the standard ones sold by most of the traders, so was wondering if there were any branded but sensibly priced ones, Monroe, KYB maybe?
Crankshaft rear oil seal
in Engine
Posted
Just found these pictures of the speedi-sleeve I took when fitting, forgot I had them.