Iain T
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Posts posted by Iain T
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2 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
went for the super-duper blue Polybushes; no idea if they're superior but the colour is nice...
Hardy Engineering who fitted a refurb diff in my Vitesse advised against fitting the Supaflex poly bushes I supplied as their customers reported they transfer too much vibration to the chassis. But then most things jiggle about on a Triumph small chassis!
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36 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
guess thats down to who supplies /gets em from the base spec all should be the same its not known to be "shimable" its only the holder dimensions the counter bore and the washer that control the holder height so youre into some juggling !!!!
Dave at Carburetter Exchange refurbished them so I'll give him a call. This is all in the search for the perfick carb setting. My idea of fun! I did take one jet body apart but can't remember the detail through the brain fuzz.
Iain
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On 29/04/2024 at 19:58, Alan J said:
From what you say Pete the springs may help with the pancake filters, so I will try and get a run out soon, have a leisurely coffee break, then see how she starts before messing with mixtur
Alan, read my post in Fuel topic re Vitesse needles and springs. It's put years on me.....!
Iain.
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9 hours ago, johny said:
So theres an air gap under the piston but I suppose not enough to affect anything?
To adjust the jet to obtain the correct relationship between the needle, jet and carb body I had the turn down the bottom jet adjuster by half a turn. As I have a afr meter I can see that made a significant difference to the fuel ratio at tick over. However at tick over virtually all the needle is in the jet so the ratio of the extra 'exposed' area will be higher than when the needle is higher and there is a larger gap between the needle and jet. Very interesting for me as I love to twiddle and research. The tick over is stable but I can't do a test run as it's raining.
Iain
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Not on the bridge as both jet holders are proud the pistons hit the jet holder. The pistons do move freely and clonk down. I think it's the Ali washers that may be too thick. I can live with the rear being 0.2mm proud but the front is 0.7mm which I think is too much. In my working life I've measured everything from simple brackets to full car bodies and can't get it out of my system! I think the most important feature is the needle taper to jet penetration is equal over both carbs. I might take out the front jet assembly and see what the problem is.
Iain
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I've noticed both jet assemblies are proud of the carb body bridge. The rear is only 0.2mm but the front is 0.7mm . As I set both needles the same height on the air piston I've compensated for the 0.5mm higher front assembly by lowering the jet the same amount thereby making the jet the same height in relation to the carb body. This will also make the needle penetration the same front to rear when in operation and the air pistons are moving. Question is are there differing aluminium washer thicknesses available?
I know I'm being picky but it's bugging me!
Iain
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1 hour ago, johny said:
think the shield heating comes from the exhaust manifold so inside the block stops this being transferred to the carbs🤔
I agree install manifold side, now which way did I install my shields...?
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When it next happens take the hose off the fuel line to the carbs and with the ignition on the electric pump should spurt fuel out (take a handy container). If it doesn't there's the fault. I've had the same problem traced to electric pump fitted too close to the block so it vapour locked (at Duxford TSSC meet) then an intermittent break in the wiring to the pump, that was a head scratcher. I had a TR3A with SUs that was also a right PITA to start from hot and never fully solved the problem. I wish I had the forum to help then but the microchip hadn't been invented......
Good luck
Iain
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I had one of the first E30 325i and complained of an engine vibration at 2500rpm and only noticeable because everything else was so smooth. Eventually after the year warranty was up and the BMW dealer fed up with me complaining they admitted BMW had a recall due to a faulty oil pump. However as it was now out of warranty and they had no 'official' record of my complaints I had to pay £900 before they would let me have my car back. Then the fight with BMW UK started! I bought and Audi next.. However once fixed the 325 was a lovely car. I have to admit Triumph could only dream of making a car that good.
Iain
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I've had many BMW's and think the best of the bunch was the E90 coupe and much better than my current bloated 4 series coupe.
I was getting a tad frustrated with my Vitesse but since the diff issues have been solved it's renewed our love hate relationship.
Iain
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I hope it goes to a good home and don't forget to mention joining the TSSC!
Will you be looking for another classic car?
Iain
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On 27/09/2023 at 16:22, daverclasper said:
Great your happy with it, no more messing now!, though always other stuff!
Sorry Dave it's in my nature to hunt for perfection. I've cut down the springs two more coils and now 170g at 53mm. Definitely better as I seem to be near the crossover point of air speed vs needle taper. At 200g the spring was holding the air piston down and yes increasing air speed but at certain conditions not allowing the needle taper to let in enough petrol.
However sorted the timing and noisy diff😁
Iain
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I think the short bolts had thin star washers which didn't work as half were hand tight. On my installation there is very little clearance to some small cap head bolts. Hardy's solution was to cut a longer thread to stop bottoming out and loctite them in. Perhaps Nord lock washers may work but there is only 3mm or so clearance.
Iain
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30 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:
Thanks for the process wonder how they changed the spring angle packer/spacer on the diff top
The spring spacer hasn't been modified, I think it's a 1/2". By initially rotating the diff up it would have altered the angle of the upright.
Iain
PS I looked at the drawing and can't see how the above can actually change anything apart from cause a lot of unwanted tension in the hub, spring and bushes. Perhaps releasing that tension has allowed everything to move correctly?
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Old short driveshaft bolt and new one.
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Peter, my diff assembly was previously altered by removing the bush cups on the upper face of the carrier and rewelded to the bottom face. The bushes were rotated to suit with the cone on the bottom. By doing so it raised the carrier and therefore the diff nose above horizontal to make it more parallel to the slightly downward facing gearbox. However it does then alter the angle of the transverse spring and I assume the geometry of the rear suspension. This was done in an attempt to rectify an excessive driveline vibration at 50+mph which made the car almost unusable but didn't correct the problem. I solved the vibration by correctly locating the bellhousing using the 3/8" odd larger size bolt but the harshness still existed in the driveline and the diff leaked hence the trip to Hardy's.
On inspection Hardy's advised to put it all back as designed and see how it drives. They also found half the drive shaft bolts were barely finger tight. Note I have a cv joint conversion. Also the diff rear bushes were in poor condition. So Hardy's installed a reconditioned diff with a standard carrier, my old front bushes which they said were in good condition and new rear bushes. Therefore the suspension geometry is now apart from my spring spacer as per standard Triumph design. On inspection yesterday it looks as though both diff and gearbox are pointing down but with very little angle on each UJ. However they are not parallel as the boffins advise. I can only assume that the slightly reduced angle between from the gb/prop and prop/diff is possibly more important than getting the diff and gb parallel?? Having said that it could also be the correctly tightened and lengthened Loctited in driveshaft bolts and new rear bushes. Note Hardy's said my old crown wheel and pinion blued up the same as the recon unit.
As I said the end result is finally after 7 years I have a lovely smooth and quiet driveline interrupted only by the wheelbarrow exhaust and lots of wind noise from both ill fitting door glass! As to the rear end it seems more compliant and the only thing that has changed is the transverse spring angle that's bolted to the top of the diff. If I had to guess the diff has rotated anticlockwise 5 or so degrees.
Even Hardy's said on their test drive what a lovely car to drive and I agree!
Iain
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Collected the car from Hardy Eng and it's transformed 😁. Gone is the harsh vibration under load and deceleration. The rumbling noise has gone and due to the spring now being in the correct angle the suspension seems more compliant. It really was a joy to drive and at last I can use those smooth 6 pot revs! Although both diff and gb are pointing very slightly down it hasn't caused any vibrations I can detect.
If it's dry I'll go for another drive tomorrow. I can thoroughly recommend Hardy's.
Iain
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13 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
Makes my method of making a concrete former, cast in the air box, when I made my Stainless Steel air box seem very old fashioned.
That's how my friend made the steel flared arches for his Sebring MGB V8. Fibre glass reverse off his wrecked Sebring then concrete male hammerform.
Iain
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5 hours ago, PeteH said:
Often wondered if I did the right thing?.
Yes!! Although rewarding there comes a time if you can to call time.
Happy retirement🍻
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22 minutes ago, johny said:
Ah ok I'll stop worrying about mine then😁
Worrying is my natural state! At work my wife and I were known as Mr Worry and Mrs Careful. I spent 4 decades worrying about sales, profit and keeping the workforce happy.....
Retirement is bliss! 😃
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I have a T9 box and the rubber mount is new. The rear can't be raised any further or the prop will be in the cabin,..!
Mounts and droops 😂 oh yes....
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Any ideas why anyone would change the carrier cups position like that Iain? Seems crazy...
To raise the nose of the diff above the horizontal as the gb points down and good driveline geometry for ujs says both units should be near parallel and prop to gb and diff angle 0.5 to 3 degrees. The theory is fine but does it work on our cars? Certainly having both gb and diff pointing down is not ideal for a uj prop.
Iain
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20 minutes ago, Ian Foster said:
I make it the right depth it can use either my existing K&N filter elements, or a remote filter at the side of the radiator.
I bought a used Vitesse air box to do just that and a cone filter to fit on the end of the tube. I thought to not use my K&N filters inside to restrict flow. It's all a bit tight for room! I think my cone has a 70mm ish fitting and good for around 250bhp...
Iain
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Hardy's have the diff out and can now see how the nose has been made to point up. The carrier bush cups have been removed from the top and welded on the bottom thereby raising the nose. Also some of the bolts to the cv driveshafts were loose and too short! Now I know what the occasion clonk was and rumbly back end. It's all going back as Triumph intended with a reconditioned diff and carrier and hopefully no leaks and a nice smooth quiet rear end🤞.
Iain
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How to tell the difference between 3.27 diffs for models up to KE/KF200000 and then from KE/KF200001
in Drivetrain & Rear Axle
Posted · Edited by Iain T
Kevin the yellow Minion? It could have been Doug he likes bright yellow.....
On a serious note the variations of rubber/poly bushes can dramatically change the ride and handling. With the bushes fitted by Hardy the transfer of vibration is much less than before and makes for a noticeably smoother ride. I hope they last🤞