Iain T
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Posts posted by Iain T
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Pete, I'll try that tomorrow.
I can feel the road rumble through the footwell and steering wheel. Only slight but when new the car was very smooth and quiet. I've had several BMW's and normally no trouble but this one has had two recalls and loads of niggling problems. The tyres have only done 1500 miles but I will be going back to tyre company.
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The new diaphragm from Burlen arrived today in its Zenith bag, covered in baby talc and gossamer thin. A few months ago when the bought the service kits from Burlen the diaphragms were loose in the boxes and quiet deformed, perhaps they were not new? The little voice in my ear said at the time 'don't fit them' but I didn't know how old the ones in the carbs were so I went ahead.....bad decision. Today I fitted the new diaphragm to the piston that was holding off the bridge and all's well, drops to a clonk and stays there. I'll be talking to Burlen tomorrow to see if I can blag another one out of them because to my mind it was their bad quality part that's at fault. The 2 from Chic should be here tomorrow and I'll compare with the new Burlen part.
Now I only have to refit the choke mechanism and attempt to start the engine (with lots of cranking) then adjust.
On another note has anyone any experience fitting 7B needles on a Vit MK2 with Phoenix 6-3-1 exhaust, gas flowed head and hotter cam? The carbs currently have 6AC fitted.
Possibly sorted one problem but my modern BMW 4 series has developed a grumbling road noise from the front end, I've had it 4 wheel aligned, new horrible Pirelli run flats (it's done 40k miles), known service widget problem on the steering and finally today new wheel bearings.....nothings worked. I will take it somewhere else to see if the front end alignments are ok and the tyres not scrubbing, I can't see any wear as I now rarely use the car. Plus the cruise control warning light that has been coming on almost since I bought the car new has now been diagnosed by a BMW specialist as the SZL unit and cost several hundreds of pounds!!!! However the BMW dealers could never find the problem...'cos it was under guarantee and it would be at their cost!!! Lying cheating BMW main dealer buggers.
I feel much better after that rant modern cars are just too damn complicated.
Time for some rum!
Iain
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will do interweb posty thingy said should be with me Friday.
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Chris, if you don't want to tackle it yourself speak to Richfield Speedograph they refurb instruments but be prepared to pay!
I have a Ford type 9 gearbox in my Vitesse and they (Richard if I remember) supplied a right angle drive so the speedo cable wasn't bent to so tight a radius it kept on snapping. One of the many issues I had with the hapless quality of work I had at Jigsaw and had to sort out myself.
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Thanks Pete, I'll buy the ones from Chic. I must say yet again thank you all for your help.😁
Iain
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Pete, yes I found them but are they any good or is another leap in the dark. I will see how the new burlen diaphragm fits, hopefully today.
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Just remembered today is Sainsbury's day! There's also a Halfords on the same estate.
You can see from the photos the ridge in the diaphragm is a series of flats (remember the old threepenny bits?) so to my mind this gives more resistance to the required up and down motion of the piston. This ridge should be round in plan view to give even resistance. This raised piston and dodgy diaphram problem probably accounts for my uneven tickover?
Doug, looked on Ebay etc and can't find any OE spec parts if the diaphragm from Burlen doesn't work can I purchase two from you? PM me if it's possible.
Cheers
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Keeps my wife amused, she says I'm a silly arse......I know I am. Haven't owned a classic car for 15 years, I am remembering the pain! Now if I could only remember what day it is.....
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Why is it always one step forward and two back, and I still haven't tackled the poor starting!
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However I will try refitting the cap to see if I can get the piston to stay down.
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Thanks all, I seem to have the Midas touch on buying 'quality'crap. I screwed the tops down evenly, the piston doesn't stick it just bounces back....
I'll take a look on eBay for OE spec diaphragms.
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Just spoken to chap at Burlen who said 'never heard of that before and I've been here 12 years'. Well he has now!
I changed over the front and rear piston/diaphragm assembly and the rear carb with the front piston assembly drops then bounces back..? The front carb with the rear piston assembly drops down and stays on the bridge so it must be a problem with the front diaphragm. With the diaphragms removed both pistons drop to the bridge. I assume as both kits came from Burlen the diaphragms are made in the same injection mould tool but perhaps the material mix varies giving different properties.
I have ordered one new diaphragm from Burlen as I don't know what else to do. Shouldn't have played with the carbs but I get bored and I wanted to give them a good clean up so I thought why not. Well they are now cleaner but don't work properly!
Iain
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Yep, jets are centred and springs fitted, although I haven't checked they are the same length, strength etc. Just read Pete's posting on 'spot the carb' thread and it seems I have one diaphragm made from 'elephant condoms' because it clonks down then rebounds. Even with the dampers out the front piston is harder to push down than the rear. I should never have changed the old ones they were gossamer thin and no holes, the new ones are from WW2 condoms!
Burlen are supposed to be a good supplier, any idea where I can buy some thin and floppy diaphragms as I threw my old ones away.....grrrrrrrr.
Iain
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Dear Forum
Still trying to sort out why my Vitesse Mk2 is a pig to start from cold. I have managed to work out how the choke mechanism disc on the CDS is oriented so that when rotated fuel goes through the disc slot and then the (now cleared) two sets of graduated holes let fuel through to enrich the carbs. But on refitting the choke mechanism I noticed the piston on the front carb is not sitting on the bridge but some 3+mm high. The rear piston sits on the bridge. I took the caps off both carbs and both pistons fall to the bridge but as soon as I put the caps on and lift the pistons the front piston does drop to the bridge with a clunk but then 'rebounds' back to about 3mm high of the bridge. The rear carb piston drops, clunks, and stays there. Although this may not resolve the starting problem but to me both pistons should be equal??? I have seen posts saying the thickness and quality of the diaphragms varies but both are from new Burlen kits. I have double, double checked the diaphragm tabs are correctly located it just seems the front diaphragm is too strong.
Am I being too nitpicky?
Iain
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Just following on from the club music theme earlier in the posts.
If I am correct then the front carb is not working properly. I have my own issues with the 150 cds choke mechanism on my mk2.
Iain
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Hi Paula
As it's cold and damp today I'm trying to get out of cleaning the car so I thought I'd surf the forum.
I'm no expert but looking at your video it looks like I can see the needle retaining screw hole on the left hand carb, in that case I believe the piston is 90 degrees out. The two slots at the bottom of the piston should face the inlet manifold in which case the retaining screw hole is facing the side of the carb? If it is wrong then the diaphragm is also not seated correctly.
I'm sure 'the experts' in our forum will either shoot me down or agree.
Iain
PS in the late 60's/early 70's I used to go to the Westcliff Hotel Essex as they had some great groups there, Focus (Dutch), Vinegar Joe (early Elkie Brooks), Roxy Music, Can (German) etc. Then there was also the Kursaal Southend, I saw Hawkwind in about '71/72 and they still had Stacey naked and daubed in body paint dancing on stage....aaah the memories!!!!
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I'm a plonker, yes you just have to push the screw and twist!
It's the correct orientation, or in my case incorrect assembly of the discs that may be causing the poor starting. I'll have another look on the interweb but can't see anything to give me a blow by blow this is how to assemble video of the CDS choke. I'll are another look and see if I can suss it out......
Iain
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Thanks,
Is there a correct assembly orientation for the discs? The disc with the holes can be assembled both ways onto the D washer so the holes would be different in relation to the other disc with the radial bar. I can't trust the current assembly I have as it could be wrong. I will clean and ensure the assembly rotates before re-assembling. The summer/winter screw has a pin in it so it can't be adjusted (see pic above), I could take it out so I have the option to use it.
Iain
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First off Barry, sorry to barge in on your thread but it may benefit both of us.
Hi Pete and all you other techy types out there, I have taken off and stripped the choke mechanism on my 150 CDS's? The disc with the slot and small holes, some of which are blocked, can be fitted either way onto the D shaft. It seems this may be crucial looking at the mating part. Also what are the two brass disc assemblies? They seem ok and not a service item? I have some carburettor cleaner but to remove surface crud can I use a fine wet and dry on the discs etc?
As always your help is greatly appreciated.
Iain
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Ta Pete, I'll have a look at choke disc.
Iain
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Due to the smaller pulley diameter the alternator spins approx 1.85 times crank revs.
Oops just seen typo, must stop using phone!😂
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Barry
I have the same problem on my mk2, I fitted a Huco low pressure electric fuel pump but didn't make any difference. I also fitted Pertronix Ignitor 2 ignition and had the car rolling road tuned. I'm still scratching my head as to what the cause is! It must be down to sumfink in the carbs or the idiot behind the wheel! If I get to the root of the problem I'll let you know.
Iain
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I'm quite partial to a Manhattan cocktail, the surprising thing is after a few glasses I loose the ability for coherent speech but my hearing is never affected 'cos I can always hear a familiar woman's voice saying 'don't you think you've had enough!'.
Back to the battery question I bought a Yuasa YBX3078 from The Battery Shop, it was £84 including delivery in 2017. The terminals are in the correct positions and the size is near perfect. The spec is 60Ah 550A cold crank.
Iain
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Yes I think we've gone a bit off piste. All I'll finally say is I am now on Silversea and Ponant's Thames cruise itineraries as a questionable example of mid 20th century English male.
I don't think I mentioned the whole reason for changing the alternator was to eliminate a vicious vibration shaking the car from around 26000rpm. A very good company called Vibration Free (no they don't sell intimate aids...but they do make Stirling crankshaft dampers) identified the alternator as the culprit! The new Brise seems to charging ok and no vibration...yippee. The year old Lucas ACR spins ok and the bearings appear fine so it must be down to a very badly out of balance armature. I suppose a small imbalance in the shaft spinning at 5000+rpm can and did shake the whole of the chassis.
Cheers to you all
Iain
Electronic ignition
in Electrical System
Posted
I went for pertronix Ignitor 2 on my vitesse, again from Aldon. Phone them and they will advise on various systems. Smooths out tick over and gives a big spark so you can open up the plug gaps.