Iain T
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Posts posted by Iain T
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12 hours ago, nicrguy1966 said:
I'm advancing the timing and going for a drive to see how it performs in various conditions, from low rev hill starts to acceleration from 50-70 on the motorway.
Do you know what your advance is now?
Thread drift....everytime I see your profile name I pronounce it knicker guy a play Pink Floyd's Arnold Layne in my head! Yes my wife thinks I'm odd🤪. YouTube the song, a classic!
Iain
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Like some I haven't mot'd mine since lockdown. Just had my modern car mot and reminded me I must book the Vitesse. If it's the same guy his dad has a 2000 saloon so knows about classics.
Iain
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I have lots of Teflon tape but prefer to use the thread sealant.
The Gold plug is the correct thread. A taper thread with a washer seems odd?
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21 hours ago, johny said:
Dont think you can use a parallel thread plug as they rely on a face to face seal which our sumps arent set up for. The taper ones must be done up to the correct torque...
My sump plug was parallel thread and it leaked. I changed to a Gold magnetic taper plug and it also leaks! In fact worse than the parallel. When I next change the oil I'll inspect the sump thread. Is there a thread sealant that works for sumps?
Permatex high temp thread sealant 59214 seems as though it would work.
Iain
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Don't worry about breaking the vertical welds the bracket will bend before the welds fail. With the wishbone off you should be able to get a bar in to hit wiv n 'ammer or prize over. I would be more worried about rewelding anything to the chassis unless all surfaces are ground back to clean metal.
As to the over bracket say in 3mm steel I'm not sure the eye of the wishbone would clear the original fixing hole unless the new hole is possibly more than 25mm lower. I'll take a look when it gets a bit warmer!
Iain
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On 07/01/2024 at 10:37, Stratton Jimmer said:
There's an additional question in my mind... The WSM 5.106 appears to show this bracket with the two bolt holes on the top which then begs the question, should the bracket be bolted on rather than welded?
The two top holes are probably tooling holes to locate the blank when the sides are 'raised' to form the U shape. The original Triumph brackets have the holes and the part formed using press tools however for the Canley brackets the manufacturing process will be different and they could possibly be deleted.
Would it be possible to make an extended cover bracket bolted to the original via the top hole(s) and the wishbone holes (with a spacer tube) and had say 25mm lower holes for the new fixing? Spacer washers the same thickness as the original bracket would be needed to maintain the correct internal width.
Iain
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19 hours ago, Wagger said:
hope that you do not have a wireless keyboard??
I only use my phone for this forum!
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20 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
the best part of getting old is you cant hear the pinking !!!
I call that wife mode. It's that background noise that is sometimes annoying but ignore at your peril!
I'm sure my wife can hear me typing this..........
Iain
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2 hours ago, johny said:
higher octane fuel would help
Tesco Momentum 99 octane for most of my refills.
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27 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
in general I reckon the answer is probably Yes
more efficiency demands less advance
That's my thinking hence when I previously had my advance at over 20 degrees the engine pinked but nicrguy1966 doesn't.
Iain
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Anyone's starter for 10.
I have a higher compression ratio of about 10.5:1 therefor the fuel/air mixture is compressed more than in a standard 9:1(?) head. Basic physics tells us when a gas is compressed it generates heat. Given the above posts regarding speed of flame would my head with the aid of compressed molecules and generated heat require less ignition advance than a standard 9:1 head?
Iain
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56 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:
but honestly, even with measuring everything several times, that could easily have been user error
But you got oily, dirty and increased your knowledge base. These are all good things that make me happy😁
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To continue this topic I have advanced my timing from around 11 degrees to 17. I had to adjust the tickover as it was a little high at this setting. Took the car out for an hours drive of slow, medium and er sorry 'orficer fast driving with no pinking under load. Tickover is more stable and revs and pulls very nicely. On listening to the engine my high and low advance range is around 8 to 24 degrees so I set about the middle.
I'm leaving the advance there and will give it a longer term test as it seems a pretty safe setting.
Iain
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Using a piston stop takes away any dwell issues, is simple and works. It's much easier and in my opinion more accurate to use than measuring the valves. Then you can progress to cam timing.
Iain
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Do you have to be careful not to restrict the oil gallery with an overlong threaded plug?
Iain
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1 hour ago, nicrguy1966 said:
Setting the ignition by ear (or for peak revs) seems to give me far better results than a strobe and any target 'correct' setting.
I can only say what I'm going to do which is the old school increase advance until it pinks then back off 1-2 degrees. After much reading about how slow modern ethanol added fuel burns I believe the Triumph wsm advance setting needs tweeking. I only retarded my ignition to 8 degrees as I thought 13 degrees was causing pinking but it turned out to be the rad cap hitting the bonnet or as just found a Mikalor hose clamp hitting the alternator. Which ever one it sounded exactly like pinking! Last year I did run at around 20 degrees and the engine was much more responsive but bottled out as I hadn't done the research.
Thanks for opening this subject for scrutiny. I'm looking forward to regaining those lost horses after spending many many hours sorting out the carb fuel/air mixture needles, damper springs and oil.
Iain
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5 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:
was planning on screwing down the idle adjustment on the carbs. Bad idea?
That's OK.
Did you get on with your neighbours.....? It's going to be noisy
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Im worrying now how Im going to stop the wheels spinning with all the extra power😁
Dig out those driving gloves with the knuckle holes😄, turn yer flat cap round and hang on!
Iain
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More Internet searching and it does seem that using E5 fuel in our engines advancing the ignition from standard is required but by how much will vary. Due to the fact E5 burns slower than old neat petrol I can see the logic in having to advance the timing to compensate. The only way to get your engines sweet spot is by ear/vacuum and trial and error. Also due to the chemical composition of ethanol there is more oxygen available and to compensate we need to enrich the mixture. I have 7B needles in so fueling isn't a problem just getting the right quantity in at the right time!
If the above is correct and I have no reason to doubt it this is the opposite of what I've always believed ie retard ignition using E5 or E10(nasty stuff).
Iain
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9 minutes ago, micmak said:
But yet, there is nothing stopping the throttle stop screws from returning to their normal resting place.
It could be that the accelerator cable needs adjusting and is too short. Can you adjust and lengthen the cable at the bracket so that the nipple that fits into the throttle has a little bit of slack and not stopping the throttle from returning properly. This is probably the reason why it doesn't return to the throttle stops.
In short the throttle is being held back by the accelerator cable.
An easy fix if I'm right!
Iain
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As Mac said pre ignition and the resultant stress on bearings etc is the hidden horror. You can hear pinking.
Iain
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25 minutes ago, johny said:
Wow that is interesting!
I agree, I'll do more digging but it does seem to vindicate DD advice not to be obsessed by standard settings. The variable is the modern fuels. I'll do more digging but after the Christmas festivities and I'm alcohol free I will be trialing advancing my timing as my engine is not in a happy place with standard 13 degrees BTDC.
Iain
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I'm disagree I'm finding this a very interesting subject. I found a MG article which may give a clue as to why our engines running on modern fuel might run better with significantly more advance than standard. I'll try and download but Upshot was they achieved lower exhaust temperature and better timed run by advancing around 13 degrees more than standard and primarily caused by the slower burn rate of modern fuels. At standard timing the fuel is still burning when the exhaust is opening hence higher head, valve and exhaust temperatures.
Iain
Cooling too efficient 😄
in Cooling System
Posted
I took my Vitesse out last week and on the move the water temp read mid to high 70C. Warmed up in traffic but then I don't have a crank driven fan only an electric. It seems if your engine and cooling system are in good condition getting temperatures up to optimum in cold weather is an issue but I wouldn't get too worried about it. If we used our cars every day in very cold weather then perhaps.
Iain