Iain T

Ian, The disc orientation looks correct, the same as mine and it works correctly. To take the disc off you have to file down the burr on the brass shaft, it seems it's only there to stop the assembly from 'exploding' when I put my refurbished assembly back I didn't bother to peen it over again. When you get the disc off there is a dished disc behind it then a spring. Be careful the spring doesn't boing out and get lost! As Pete says, onto a flat (glass etc) surface put a wetted piece of wet and dry, I used 1000 grit, and gently polish the disc. I also polished both sides of the middle body, that's the one with the brass connector tube. Also with the discs and shaft removed I polished the outer body mating surface as there isn't a gasket between it and the middle part. Make sure you then clean all parts with say carb cleaner and inspect all the graduated holes that none are blocked. Reassemble making sure the disc and shaft are correctly orientated. The adjustment screw should have a small clearance to the choke cam. Best of luck let us know how you get on! Iain

Oooh yeah, needles should be the same. As Pete said 6AC are the standard needles for a mk2. Iain

https://images.app.goo.gl/XbnVTzkGdbJur4Sd6 If it works this shows the difference between 6AC and 6AG. The AG is slightly thicker so a leaner needle. Burlen sell needles and obviously they should be the same spec front and back. Iain

In the middle body there are indeed two poppet valves but I think (might be wrong) that on the face of the middle body that mates with the outer there are radial tear shaped recesses where the poppets are. They are radial tear shaped to match the radial graduated holes. When fully rotated (choke full open) all the graduated holes are aligned with the tear to allow maximum fuel flow. As I say I might be wrong, it's been more than two days since I disassembled my choke🤪 This week I thought Tuesday was Wednesday and gained a whole day! Iain

It may be you'll have to take the choke off the carb and take a look perhaps the guy who refurbed the carbs got it wrong as he should have known about the connecting tube! It's only two screws plus disconnecting the choke cable and it comes off. The 'middle' body might stay attached to the carb body as there is a gasket between them. If the whole assembly comes off take the outer choke body off the 'middle' so you can see the disc that rotates and allows fuel through to both carbs via the two sets of graduated holes. Firstly are there two sets of holes, there are discs with only one set of holes. If there are only one set of holes you have the wrong disc (guru's have I got that right?) and it just won't work. The two sets of holes line up with two radial tear drop shape machined holes in the middle body. When the disc is rotated by pulling the choke out the graduated holes align with the tear drop holes and allows fuel to the front and rear carbs to enriched the mixture thereby aiding starting. If this has been stripped down and disassembled the disc can be reassembled back to front so that the graduated and tear drop holes are misaligned. It's simple to flip it over just let us know what you find. It sounds complicated but when you look at it all will be revealed! Try Pauls test then I'm afraid you will have to take the choke off and take a gander🤓 There is a post in 'Fuel System' I think it is 'Vitesse starting problems' with pictures! Keep us informed and don't panic....... Iain

Dunno about dark art, I could do with brightening up now! I'm amusing myself making a cardboard model of a taper piece to make onto the side of the airbox. Looking to use a 60mm diameter outlet cone filter and ditch the pancakes. Hopefully I can make it next week. Iain

Colin, agree 100% however my BMW dealership does take a damn fine video of the teenage mechanic pointing at those black round things at each corner of the car 🤠

Pete, I think there is a dark art and for help with that there's the TSSC Forum 😁

I've used Stuart at Classic Workshop Headcorn TN7 9LY tel 01622 891734. Nice guy and looks after a few Triumphs but as John said local group can be very useful and knowledgeable. Iain

Ian Modern cars have hi-tech gas recycling systems and sensors everywhere! I think the eternal conflict between bean counters and engineers is the reason for many compromised products. Apart from cost I can't see a downside of using a catch tank. Iain

Dave, seems the vacuum in a road car really does work I'll be keeping the PCV! Ian, I know I said I'll park the idea but I can't help thinking a filtered/baffled can feeding the PCV must as you say be a better solution. Is the breather external to the can or an internal baffle? If it's a breather it is no longer a sealed system so the intake vacuum won't scavenge. Cheers all Iain

Dave, The engine has just been reconditioned to a high level ie honed bores, new rings, sorted head with 10.5CR and new higher lift cam etc but only spec'd as a road engine and car. It's just me being paradoid about stopping oil leaks. I think I'll park this idea and get on with enjoying the car! Cheers🍻 Iain

What about option 2? This keeps the closed system but better vents and filters gases at higher revs or is the PCV aperture and hose sizes the overriding factor making fitting a crankcase vent irrelevant? I would prefer to keep the engine bay less cluttered but I think it was Marcus who said the rocker outlet was too small. Iain

Thanks for replies I did clean out the PCV and replace the diaphragm when reconditioning the engine. Pete I would drive the car if I had somewhere to go that was open and had a toilet! Sooon very soooon😁 Still there's going to be fields full of non PC statues for us all to visit soon! Sorry I'm incandescent over recent events😡 a subject not for this forum. Iain

Following on from another thread I have been pondering the positives and negatives of a PCV. I have recently reconditioned the engine in my MK2 Vitesse and am trying to decide which way to go or do nothing at all and leave as is! Option 1 Keep PCV and fit a crankcase vent and filter via the fuel pump aperture. This would let the crankcase breath but still let 'nasties' from the rocker into the inlet system and gum up my nice new valves and weaken the AF mixture but then this happens in a standard set up. Option 2 Keep PCV and fit a 3-port baffled/filtered oil catch can (Mishimoto compact or XL?) by say the clutch master cylinder (see photo) then plumb to the IN the rocker and crankcase and OUT to the PCV. This filters out some of the 'nasties' but is the PCV big enough to handle the flow? Option 3 Ditch the PCV and blank the inlet manifold connection. Fit a 3-port baffled/filtered oil catch can in position as Option 2 with the rocker and crankcase pipes to the IN and a filter to atmosphere in the OUT. This removes all 'nasties' in the intake system and vents the whole engine. I believe John has this setup? This does not vacuum assist the system at idle but is that important if the rest is adequately vented and the carbs set up to suit? Option 4 Do nothing and leave as OE As originality is not that important to me I am inclined to go for 1 or 2 but am open to suggestions! Iain PS Yes I know I still have the K&N's as I haven't made my new Chris Witor style airbox!

Colin, I'm with you there we all need more fun🤡 in these trying times the Jokes section has kept my spirits up🥃 If you want a turnbuckle (they do look good) why not rose jointed ends to take up any offset? If they are good enough for track rod ends they must be good enough for adjusting a fan belt tension. I'm off to do some general car twiddling so I'll investigate!

Ooooh this is getting much too technical when a simple bracket will suffice? If you need an offset then 68vitesse's gets my vote.

If you have deep pockets you could go for a Ford type 9 5-speed gearbox conversion. Parts etc readily available try BGH for the gearbox (best type 9 specialists) and Canley sell the conversion kit. Make sure you get the 2.8 box as the ratios almost match the Triumph box. Works very well in my car but the overdrive box I had in a TR3a was better. You could just flick the od switch with your little finger and overtaking was easy. Iain Iain

I'm not an Ian I'm an Iain! Reminds me of the film Sparticus, OK it's misquoted. Fingers crossed the problem is solved🤞

Mmm I think the mesh at a rakish 45 degree angle not verticle/horizontal would be better? A pain to make as the short strands of wire un-weave themselves and the whole grille needs to be retained in a carrier. Friend of mine used to make wire grilles for Jaguar, Ford etc and apart from forming retaining the wires was the biggest headache. Iain

John, good point structurally much better.

+1 for Colin's solution it looks good and I need some s/s bling on my black engine! I take it you just cut off one of the legs of the end U bracket?

As to the cold start mechanism, although I replaced mine with a new one from Burlen I still had to lap the mating surface in as it still leaked. The main leak came from the outer body to the middle as this joint by design doesn't have a gasket. Just to be sure I also used some Wellseal but be careful not to get any on the choke disc! The middle body to carb body does have a gasket. If you are going to take the choke mechanism off make sure it has two sets of graduated holes that line up with the tear shaped holes in the middle body. Hope this helps 'cos I bin there!!!!! Iain

Is the air piston orientated correctly? I know the tabs on the diaphragm should stop this from happening but.........! I believe the groves in the bottom of the piston should point towards the manifold? I think Pete identified and fixed this miss assembly on another members car. Iain

I have a mk1 grille on my mk2 Vitesse, I think it looks great and as my car is far from original for me that's not an issue. I'm with Adrian a stainless steel woven wire mesh grille would look good. Iain