Iain T
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Posts posted by Iain T
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The guy at Brise is old school 1960's Lucas employee so should know what he's talking about, I don't electrics are not my forte. However when all the cables arrive just to be safe I will possibly wire it in as per the drawing.
Don't know why they spec 25mm2 cable as this is rated at 170amps, perhaps they are just being cautious?
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I spoke to a very helpful guy at Brise who advised on 'standard British' wiring the L terminal should be the warning light which on my Vitesse/dynamo loom is the brown/yellow cable. I then have to run a new cable from the fused side of the fuse box ie any green wire terminal, to the IG terminal. The existing 35 amp fuse should be ok? I also have to buy a 1000mm long cable from the positive battery terminal to terminal B. I opted for 16mm2 rated at 110 amp cable, the recommended 25mm2 cables are rated at 170 amps which seemed over the top for a 60 amp alternator.
The only other issues are the existing 35mm long mounting spacer will have to be cut down to 16mm as the pulley offsets are different to the Lucas ACR and pivot/mounting holes in the Brise are for M8 bolts. There seems too much play if I use the original 5/16" bolt so I will get an M8 x 130 bolt. Once I have the Brise fitted I will sort out spacers for the adjustment bracket or make a new one.
If this works it could be a fix for all three terminal Brise/Denso type alternators. In about a week I'll let you know if it all works!!!!
If you think there is a glaring problem with the above please comment.
Cheers
Iain
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Thanks all,
I'll buy a new cable from terminal B to battery then plug in the brown/yellow to L. For the moment I'll tape up the brown/green. To be safe I'll phone Brise and ask if IGN terminal is required or optional.
It's a very compact and light alternator, Brise sell a 4si unit that is just 2kg all up! I just want to eliminate as many issues as I can, enjoy the car and do some historic rally's!
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Mmm, so the old brown/green is not required? If I don't plug this in somewhere surely some of the widgets in the car may not work.
I assume the brown/yellow wire goes into the Brise L yellow terminal?
Iain
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Firstly I have to say I have a blind spot when it comes to electrics!
After three alternators decided to either stop charging or vibrate the whole car I bought a Brise 5siacr. I thought I could sort out how to plug it in but I need the Forums help. My old Lucas 17 ACR has only two terminals with a brown/yellow small spade wire and a larger spade brown/green wire plugged in. With the engine running I put an avo on the brown/green wire and it showed 14.4 volts so I assume this is the charge side to the battery, although I can't see where it goes. Therefore the brown/yellow must be to excite the alternator? The Brise has a type 1 terminal with two spades and a larger stud terminal for a larger cable straight to the battery. Obviously the regulator has been junked in lieu of a multitude of brown wires in a connector box, that's electrical technical talk for me.
My question is where do I plug in the brown/green and yellow cables into the Brise? Do I need the brown/green cable as I will be using a new cable to the battery.......etc
Sorry if this has been covered before but simple answers please, I know one being take it to an auto electrician!
Cheers
Iain
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I shall be having an interesting conversation with the supplier tomorrow after I collect the car from VF who are kindly putting in the new windscreen. I also bought a steering column shaft UJ last year that had such badly formed splines that the shaft just turned in the UJ. Even clamped up tight it was unable to engage with either splines, not only useless but unsafe and dangerous!!! I put the old disc one back on......buyer beware!!!
Iain
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John
It was at Ingatestone Hall in July, a nice event and you can go around the Hall. The car next to the Daimler is an Invicta S-type, only 75 ever made and in show condition, mega bucks but what a car and fantastic Meadows engine.
If you want to see some unique or unusual vintage cars go to the VSCC Prescott Hill Climb event. It's over a Sat/Sun and some of the machinery is jaw dropping, they normally have 3 or so ERA's and to see them off the line for a 80 year old racing car and (Riley based) engine is a must. You can walk around paddock and hill and chat to all the competitors, very friendly.
Your Vitesse looks a bit mean, does it still have the 2ltr engine? Did you tweak the carbs/intake manifold/head?
Iain
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Thanks for everyones help greatly appreciated😀
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When I had my factory I was fortunate to see the transition from all hand skills in the 70's through to full cad cam 5-axis high speed machining. The best of times as the 'old skool' and new guys intermingled and fed from one another. The result being that with over a hundred skilled workforce I only needed 3 working supervisors as everyone just knew what they were doing.....bliss for me and fulfilling for the workshop.
However you can't go backwards and the new technology is so much more quicker, accurate and repeatable. The only thing education doesn't teach you is common sense, that comes from mentors and getting it wrong.
I attach pictures of my friends Daimler 'Toomer Special' which he converted from a 1940's DE36 hearse. He shortened the chassis completely assembled the car and made all the formers and hand made the ali body himself....impressive but it nearly killed him with the effort! Yes it does have 5.5Ltr straight 8 with 4 SU's and goes like s**t, but stopping it is another matter. The old skills are still out there but diminishing.
Iain
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Dave,
Apart from using tube follower etc the way we used to form prototype exhausts and tubes was to fill with dry sand, bung up the ends with wood then heat the area you want to bend to cherry red and SLOWLY and in several bites bend round by hand (with the aid of extending the tube to get more leverage). The sand stops the tube from collapsing. But you must use bone dry sand or the steam generated inside the tube with blow the bungs out like bullets!!!!!! A common ruse for apprentices in the days when health and safety didn't rule the roost.
Have fun
Iain
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Thanks Pete,
Had an exciting day today, in the hunt for this spurious vibration around 2500-3500rpm I took the car to Vibration Free at Bicester who use specialist widgets to see where and what is causing the problem. However bowling through the countryside on the A418 a boulder hit the windscreen, frightened the life out of me and made crazy glass of the screen. Anyway I got to VF (as they very kindly collected the car on their trailer) and the culprit of the very harsh vibration was the 'new' alternator that I fitted only 3 months ago! It is the second alternator I have fitted from a very well known Triumph parts supplier, the first one just didn't charge after only a few hundred miles and this one charges but is of so poor quality it is unusable. Steve from VF said in his 20 years experience he has never seen anything this bad as it vibrated the engine/gearbox and chassis.
The upshot is apart from all the usual suspects ie propshaft/UJ's etc just take the fan belt off and see if the vibration disappears....it could be the cr**py alternators and parts we are sold to maintain our cars!!
I can't recommend Vibration Free enough, this is the second time I have used them, the first time was when they successfully identified the bell housing was misaligned. Sure enough a 'specialist' workshop hadn't fitted the all important 3/8" alignment bolt but 5/16" all round so when I put a dti on the flywheel and measured the gearbox aperture on the back of the bell housing it was over 20 thou out of centre. The limit is less that 5 thou. Try their services it can save you an expensive rebuild.
Finally is a MK2 2ltr also a 6J?
Iain
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Pete,
I have since changed the shocks for fully adjustable GAZ fronts and back which has made a huge difference to the better. I also had the car set up correctly. The car came with an uprated front roll bar and solid mounted rack which makes the handling and steering much more direct and to my taste.
I might add the £40k+ bills were not mine but the previous owners but I seem to be racking up a few now to make the car into a more road friendly version!
Doug
Yes I probably will put the old air box back, there is a lot of heat coming from the 6-3-1 manifold and I'm not going to spend £4-500 ceramic coating it!! Do you know the numbers for the standard (bottom adjusted) and pancake needles?
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Thanks All,
I have no idea what the cam is as it isn't in the bumph that came with the car but it isn't right but I do have a lot of invoices racking up over £40K in costs! In fact the car as I bought it seemed to be too hard core with the shocks being ok for race track but intent on loosening my fillings on the road. My wife keeps on saying why did you buy it but I love a challenge and always had a soft spot for Vitesses from when one of my teachers at school bought one from new.
I have looked at Chis Witor's cams and will see how his standard 308788 cam compares with Newmans PH1. I believe both are billet cams. I also spoke to Chris about sorting out the inlet manifold but as his guy doesn't do it any more I'm leaving it as is.
I agree apart from the lack of needles the standard CD150's as fitted to my car are every bit as good as SU's in fact it could be argued a more modern design.
On another note has anyone used Classic and Modern Engine Services at Bracknell, the E Type guys seem to like what they do and I may ask them to balance the bottom end and test compression etc on the head.
Cheers
Iain
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Thanks Pete,
I am definitely leaning towards a standard cam but making sure the engine is assembled correctly (time to get my pipette out!) and balanced. It was just as bad to start with the standard air box so I think the crazy cam is the culprit, just not enough suck with cranking revs. The tuners, Atspeed, did have to play around with the needles as it was running weak on tickover/low revs but fine at mid/high revs. As I have to take the engine out to hopefully sort out the last bit of harshness, changing the cam to standard seems logical as I want a fast tractable engine not a screaming racer. The car also has the Type 9 5-speed with 2.8 ratios (from BGH) and cv joint conversions so mechanically it's not a standard car but I want it to look as standard as possible and not change to SU's (HS6's?).
Cheers
Iain
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Hi,
I'm new to the forum and have had my Vitesse for 3 years and although it was a ground up restoration about 10 years ago (by the previous owner) it did come with lots of issues! Having ironed out most of them, with a great deal of effort and not a small amount of cash, I am left with a harsh engine to deal with. The head has (allegedly) larger valves, a phoenix 6-3-1 twin box exhaust and gives 115bhp and 115ft/lbs of torque on standard CD150's with K&N pancakes. However it is a pig to start even though I installed a Pertronix Ignitor 2, a Huco low pressure electric pump and have had it tuned on a rolling road. It is 'lumpy' on tickover and nothing much happens until 3000rpm so I am thinking the cam might be the culprit as a too hot cam can make cold starting involve a lot of cranking! As to the harshness in the engine I will be balancing the bottom end and replacing shells etc where required gas flowing the head which will hopefully cure this issue. My question is for a fast(ish) road car would it be better to install a standard cam from say Newmans or go for something else?
Any suggestions?
Iain
Vitesse MK2 Brise Alternator Connections
in Electrical System
Posted
I didn't mention this but the new Brise alternator is 60 amp output. More than the old 25 amp dyno, still not enough for in-car-entertainment systems, climate control and 3000w amp but should enable me to turn my extra spot lamps on!
There is a posting on Sideways Technologies website from 'DaveNotSoSideways dated 4th Feb 2008 which gives a very good and descriptive method of converting a GT6/Vitesse/Spitfire etc from dyno to Denso type alternator.
Iain