Iain T
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Posts posted by Iain T
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Doug,
Dry:-
1=130, 2=128, 3=130, 4=132, 5=128, 6=135
Wet:-
2=150, 6=152, I didn't test the others wet as the light was fading and my wife was fed up cranking the engine!
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I will test mixture by lifting the piston and if it seems rich I'll weaken it off a bit and retest. Perhaps it just needs it's throat clearing by a blast round the lanes, difficult in London!
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As number 1 plug is the correct colour and I have had the engine rolling road tuned I hope the front carb mixture is sort of, probably, hopefully ok. The difference between the colour of 1 and 2,3 plugs is enormous, 2,3 are black soot.
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I bought a compression tester before Christmas and have been itching to use it on my Vitesse MK2. I know unless calibrated the actual values can vary but I wanted to know if all the cylinders were within the ideal 5% of each other. I ran the engine up to normal temperature (only around 70F as that was as hot as it would get), took all the plugs out, lifted the carb air piston and tested with the throttle fully open...I've been reading the instructions on the Forum!!! Values were 128-135psi dry and increased by 15-20psi with a teaspoon of oil down the plug 'ole. Question, is this increase acceptable or an indication that the ring/bore is not in perfect condition?
I did notice plugs 2 and 3 were soot black and 1 was normal colour. Plugs 4,5,6 were all ok. As 1-3 cylinders are fed from the front carb I would assume given all things equal they should be the same colour so the carbon must be coming from valves or rings on 2 and 3. FYI the engine does not smoke on acceleration or in fact any other time. Thoughts please.
Iain
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Pete, I looked at taking my prop on my Vitesse to the company at Feltham. When I phoned them they said they send all the props to Bailey Morris for refurb and balancing. I took mine direct to BM and by arrangement they did the ujs/balancing while I went and had a pub lunch! If you are close to Feltham it would be easier but I was on a mission....
Overall excellent service.
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I'll take a look.
Happy Christmas all
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Daimler only made 250'ish the most famous being the Docker's Daimler Green Goddess. He has accumulated 3 engines and all have slight differences typical of post war 'what's on the shelf and can we use it' practice. All are 5.4L and with his bespoke pistons giving 9:1 CR, it was 7:1 as standard, it has massive grunt whatever the revs. With the current gearing it easily tops the ton and cruises all day at 80, all a bit scary in a car that weighs 2500kgs with drum brakes!
John, good explanation of compression ratio calcs on sideways forum, if you are going to play with CR you might as well do it properly.
Iain
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My friend who rebodied his Daimler DE36 from a hearse to a brooklands racer had to go through hoops and a year of grief to keep his original number plate.
A monster of a car, started off at 6 metres long and even though he took 1m out of the chassis it still dwarfs my Vitesse.
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Yes I understand the comfort factor of have an MOT but my last test was all clear then when I examined the track rod ends they were shot! It seems to depend on the examiner and if your car presents well then perhaps they take a more cursory look.
On the other hand as my car has the cv joint convertion with gas struts and type 9 gearbox it could be argued it has 'substantial change' therefore mandatory MOT.
Iain
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I thought all historic cars over 40 years old are exempt from MOT's?
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Is that you Dr Kilmore, Mr Bigger needs an enema...I'm off to rub my injection castings!
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Finally in the correct format!!!!!
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I hate Apple products with a vengeance, this is the picture. The part in question is the one with the two brass valves.
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Colin, it's the part in the square which isn't flat. This fits between the outer part of the choke (with the spring and lever) and the carb body. If the face that the disc pushes against isn't perfectly flat then fuel will leak out although as he said there is fuel in the chamber behind the flat disc which can still seep out through the ill fitting shaft/outer body bush.
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Spoke to a very helpful guy at Carbex and he said they often see quite a bit of distortion on the intermediate body ie the one the disc rotates against. He suggested to push the brass tube out and finely lick over the faces with a mill. I'm going to do that as I still have access to milling machines where I used to work. He said it may still dribble out of the worn outer body which they sometimes re-bush.
Plan B is next year to possibly install a kit from Classic Car Fuel Injection at Chelmsford. I spoke to the guy today and he said he has done around twelve 2000/2500 Triumphs and the results have been very good with a lot more lower and mid range grunt. The advantage is it retains the original carb body look with just an insert between the carb and manifold for the injectors. The plumbing if done correctly doesn't look to be too horrendous in the engine bay and you get the advantage of fully programmable fuel injection and ignition. Has anyone on the Forum used the kit or the company?
Iain
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Hi Donal,
Welcome to the Forum.
It's been a while since I stripped an engine down, I used lots of containers plus sealable sandwich bags for the smaller stuff. I just wrote what the items were on the bags with an indelible marker. I put the bags in containers but you can put multiple bags into one container. Don't forget to mark up the mains and big end caps, rods, pistons up 1, 2, 3, 4, and just incase I had a senile moment I think I wrote 1F for Front and 4R for ???? I can't remember.....
As Colin said take loads of pictures.
Have fun!
Iain
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Thanks Pete, I just didn't get a warm fuzzy feeling when I talked to the guy at Burlen, it was as though I knew more about the 150 CDS than he did!
Cheers
Iain
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I made the guy get the part out of their stockroom to check and I said the same as you. It was a difficult conversation as even the 150 CDS drawing on their website is not correct and doesn't show the middle body part hence I am going to phone G&L Monday. I really did loose confidence in what I was being offered.
I'll report back.
The Dribbler
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Carefully assembled choke with wellseal on joints but still leaks!
I phoned Burlen and the part Pete suggested is a complete assembly but the choke disc only has one set of graduated holes. After rummaging around he did find a new twin carb disc (2 sets of holes) but just as I was about to order their phones went down!?!?
I'll try Gower and Lee Monday and see what they suggest to fix the leak. My shares have benefited from the Bo Jo Bounce so I'm feeling flush, where is that Jenvey Heritage catalogue.....
Iain
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Hi Ian
My car is a '68 Mk 2 but when he had the car restored the previous owner was a Lotus fan so mine is Triumph 19 with Lotus Green stripes but based on the '6' front end headlamp and grille arrangement. It's a personal choice and it depends how paranoid you are about originality but I think this is the best looking option. I like the idea about wrapping as I am not that keen on everyone saying 'that's an odd looking Lotus' so I would like to change to a more traditional colour stripe. If you do go for wrapping please report back.
Iain
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Agree it should be the complete assembly as the two discs are kept in place by peening over the end of the brass shaft, I think I just asked the wrong person. With the return spring as above it is a tidy assembly and am loath to make it messy.
I've had the car for nearly 3 years and last week was the first time it started correctly, ticked over and now the horrid vibrations (many causes) has been sorted I could actually push it in anger. I thoroughly enjoyed it!
Next on the list is make a better ducting system for the carbs by adapting a standard box with a centre feed then ducted to the side of the rad? I have K&N's on but I need cooler air when I get stuck in the inevitable traffic jams. Plus the brakes have no feel whatsoever so if M1144's aren't fitted I'll be buying from the TSSC shop.
Iain
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Paul,
The upshot is make sure wherever you take it to be welded is experienced in cast iron repairs. We always used to heat the entire casting but in say some larger press tools this was not possible so we heated the area as best we could. The GTMA (gauge and toolmakers association) website lists some companies that could do the work....but at what price?
Iain
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The choke outer body assembly at Burlen part number B19203 is £52.94 but the guy didn't know if the two discs where included, he doubted they did. However this is a new assembly so the brass shaft should be a close fit in the body's bearing. Therefore this would reduce to a minimum the side movement on the shaft created by the return spring. My thinking is as the return spring is pretty strong if there is excessive wear in the shaft/bearing this could tilt the shaft and thereby the disc so that that it doesn't mate correctly with the adjacent part and leak. As far as I can see it is only the small internal spring that pushes the disc against the mating part that stops fuel from leaking and this internal coil spring isn't strong enough to overcome the more powerful side load from the return spring.
Or all the above could be a load of poop as the tolerance between the discs and shaft could be enough to compensate for any wear in the shaft/body bearing..??? All I know is this mechanism wasn't designed by NASA!
I'm trying out Wellseal on the outer body sealing surface as there isn't a gasket then go from there.
Iain
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While on the underground escalators I've made many a close but discrete study of derrieres , most don't merit a second look. Some are like mobile chicanes, difficult to go round without skidding....
Dry and wet compression test
in Engine
Posted
Doug,
I know but she doesn't like the 'aroma' of my car (what's wrong with old car and oil?) plus it was a bit windy on the 5th floor in the multi storey car park. I do wind her up a lot but on her plus side she does like Wheeler Dealer...TR6 tonight.