Iain T
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Posts posted by Iain T
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Robbie,
Been where you are, haven't we all, you just want to get it right!
My engine has been played with by the PO and there are shims under my pedestals. I haven't checked the contact area but the shim is about 1mm (40 thou) thick. If you have any sheet metal (or anything that doesn't compress) make some rough shims so you can do a trial to see the difference before you buy anything. The rule is the rockers should be horizontal. However if the parts haven't been machined correctly then as most things on old vehicles it's going to be a compromise.
Iain
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I used 12mm square closed cell foam with sticky surface on opposing sides. Didn't bother screwing cover to floor just old fashioned duck tape specially around the bulkhead. Stopped a lot of noise and engine pongs!
Iain
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Also while it's off make sure the two brass discs in the feeder block rattle around and are not stuck. Be gentle as I don't know if these are available if you break the tabs!!!!!!!
Iain
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Pete's correct (isn't he always) it may be the graduated holes in the disc are gummed, up the smaller holes in mine were.
To remove the starter first ping off the spring clip that retains the choke cable sleeve to the carb (be careful because it can ping off and disappear into the bowels of the oily bits!), disconnect the choke cable from the lever arm, remove the feeder tube from the front to rear carbs (it's at the top by the starter assembly) and take out the two screws located on the B19203 starter. The whole assembly which consists of the starter and adjacent 'feeder' block with the brass tube to the rear carb can then be removed. There is a gasket between the 'feeder' block and the carb body if you are lucky this will come off intact. There is no gasket between the feeder and starter blocks, it requires fairy dust, luck or 1000 wet and drying the surfaces to stop the metal to metal joint leaking!!!! Don't forget to put a rag underneath the carb to catch any fuel when you remove the starter.
You can now see the starter disc with the two sets of graduated holes that when rotated by pulling the choke out send fuel to enrich both carbs. The more you pull out the choke the more holes are exposed to the feeder block thereby further enriching the mixture. If the holes are gummed up use a carb cleaner and/or carefully clear with a needle. Note the disc and cup behind it are retained on the brass shaft by a peened slot so won't come off. You can clean the disc in situ or carefully wet and dry the peened bit to remove the tang so the disc can be removed. Best try cleaning it in situ, I took mine off and nearly lost the spring when everything 'exploded' when trying to put the assembly back on the carb.
Try this first before you buy anything and also make sure the screw that actuates the lever arm is adjusted correctly. You should only have around 1200 -1300 rpm on full choke, if you have more revs then release the locking nut and rotate the screw to give more clearance to the lever.
Let us know how you get on and have fun......
Iain
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Hi Bfashbolt,
Burlen do have one starter assembly for 150CDS, they did have two but I bought one! Part number is B19203 (no 10 on list). Although states it's for a CDSE it fits the CDS but the disc comes with only one set of graduated holes so if you have twin carbs you will need to take off your old disc with two sets of holes to line up and enrich both carbs. At a previous (difficult) conversation with Burlen they did say they have the twin hole discs but their telephone system went down before I could get any price or part number!?!? The cam is the same as my old starter assembly so all ok........ it still has a minor dribble but then so do I. What parts do you need as I have my old assembly and could help out.
Pete, no not having fun it's frustrating but thanks for the link I would never have found the part.
Iain
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Colin, our boiler is located 5 metres from an outside wall and our original boiler had a horizontal flue. New condenser boilers need a 3 degree flue angle so condensate flows back to the boiler. Unfortunately the cavity in our ceiling isn't deep enough for the 3 degree fall. So either expensive and ugly ceiling mods or electric. As your boiler is on an outside wall the fall is not an issue.
The EHC boiler is the same size as our old gas boiler as it is not just a heating coil but includes pump, controls etc in the case. It also senses what power is needed and adjusts accordingly.
Iain
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Best buy a used good quality welder, cheap equipment will always give problems. You need the quality to be designed in from new and good MIG welder will last years. If you really want to push the boat out take a look at Miller or Fronius, we had those and Kemppi but were used all day long so quality and productivity were paramount.
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We had a 12Kw electric boiler installed in our apartment a year ago and the cost is approx 10% more than gas but that is offset against the fact that we now don't have to pay for gas servicing/inspection. Really good installation, the supplier is Electric Heating Company from bonny Scotland who have approved installers all over the UK. We have ours mated to a Megaflo hot water tank and everything heats up much quicker than gas.
We had no option but to go electric as we couldn't accommodate the 3 degree flue angle in our ceiling cavity required for a new condensing boiler (our old boiler was non-condensing) so it would have meant ceiling mods, inspection hatches and lots of money.
Tony, I used to live in't countryside and the farm manager who lived next door was having his sceptic tank drained and being nosey and wanting to make sure the sucker had done it's job he put his head over the hole just as the operator said stand back......!!!! The reason being to avoid any nasties in his sucker pipe he back blows and yes the manager got a full face and body flush. His wife said he stayed in the shower for hours!!
Iain
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Doug,
Vladimir Putin is also a 5th Dan, tomorrow the world!!!
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Had rolling road tune 6 months ago I just like tinkering. This is the first classic I have bought that I haven't restored so I'm feeling out of control. Ideally I would like more mid range torque but that involves engine out and build to my spec and this year I just want to do some tours and rally's.
Iain
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After a very bad experience with a certain company I am always on the lookout for people and companies who have the 'knowledge' and worked on Triumph cars and are preferably not 100's of miles away. I have used Stewart at The Classic Workshop at Headcorn who is very helpful, excellent work, good rates but he is a one man band and always booked up. I am suspect about the quality of work on the head and everything else done by Jigsaw (there the cat's out the bag) and as I have time on my hands might take the head off to take a look etc. If I do find anything or need to do leak test etc I want to know the best place to do any work.
In reality it's just me being bored because the weathers bad and I want something to do!!!!
Iain
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Having gone spinning round in circles and now getting back to engine bits I'm going to take a look at a company called CTM Engineering at Dagenham next week. I spoke to the owner and asked if he had ever worked on Triumph 6 cylinder engines and heads (the website is mainly Ford engines) and he said he has worked on 100's of them. He started at Burtons in 1973 working on performance heads then struck out on his own in 1985. I'll report back after I've taken a look, always good to know of places to take our children, sorry cars.
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Why don't manufacturers make things simpler with less functions but better quality components? Most people don't use or need more than 2 or 3 functions and why does it need Bluetooth connection? My Miele has patented honeycomb perforations in the drum and some intelligent rotation logic that is supposed to rinse and detangle the washing.....what a load of round things! However it is half the weight of the Bismark but will hopefully last a lot longer.
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I'm no Spitfire expert but if you have done some head work then to get the full benefit a tubular 4-2 sport manifold is a must. Phoenix do systems, I have the 6-3-1 on my Vitesse, and have a very good reputation but not cheap.
Fulvia 1300's rev really well and don't they sound nice. I like the interior and boxer engine in the Flavia but Fulvias always look 'chuckable'.
Iain
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I've related our appliance threads to my wife......she thinks we are all barmy and need to get out more, I think she has a point. How about starting a discussion about irons or pillows (wife has a large collection, soft, medium, centre infills, Siberian/Hungarian down etc etc somehow none are just right)? Philips Azur always our go to iron, good on shirts!
I must stop this I'm having a gender bender...help someone stop me......
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A few years ago we bought a weekend place at Ramsgate and occasionally rented it out. An American guy, who was going to attempt swimming the Channel, and his family rented it and at the end of the rental period phoned us to say the washer was full of water and wouldn't drain so they left with their clothes in it! They flew back to the USA and when we went to Ramsgate to investigate we found a pair of women's tights wrapped around the washers pump. When I contacted them to say what the cause was and we would DHL their clothes to them all they said was in American upright twin tubs this never happens...!!!
He never attempted swimming the Channel because the weather was awful and rained for most of their 2 week stay. Perhaps in the 'New World' trade deal with the US we should all by American twin tubs????? That way Colin you can dress in which ever manner you wish...
Iain
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Hi Simon and welcome to the forum!
I've always had a soft spot for Fulvias (and Flavias) is it a 1300 or 1600? Never owned one but on my wish list for the future.
I had a 1500 Spit in the mid '70s with optional hard top. I really enjoyed it but it did need more grunt. An overdrive gearbox makes for easy overtaking, just flick a switch and off you go.
Cheers
Iain
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Pete,
I know, this is the second time, different guys, that Burlen have been less than helpful when getting info about Strombergs. When I said their CDSE starter looks exactly the same as my CDS he insisted it is a different part number for a CDS so wouldn't fit and they don't have one of those. I explained I know I have to change the disc as their starter disc only has one set of graduated holes but he suggested I just re-bush and I lost the will to argue. The conversation was all very pleasant but unhelpful!
Iain
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It's like everything in life once you've done it multiple times it becomes easier! The problem with changing UJ's yourself is the different thickness circlips that are sometimes required to take up any end float (mine did) and they are something most of us don't have in our 'magic' boxes. As Johny said the prop will require balancing after fitting new UJ's to ensure smooth running. Best take it to Propshaft Services.
The other thing some people don't consider is driveline angles. If you draw a line from the centre of the diff and output shaft of the gearbox the angles should be the same ie parallel within +/-3 degrees. This applies in side and plan views (some diffs are offset from the car centreline). Google driveline angles and all will be revealed. I have a Type 9 conversion in my Vitesse and when inspected both the diff and g/box output shaft pointed down, not ideal if one points down the other needs to point up to be parallel. I couldn't raise the gearbox any higher so my guy managed to adjust the diff up to get within 3 degrees. In plan everything was ok. In theory if the driveline isn't parallel within 3 degrees vibration and UJ wear can/will occur. Not normally a problem if you have a standard car but if you change gearbox/mounts etc something to consider.
Iain
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Mmm 150CDS starter chokes....mine still leaks and Burlen were reluctant to sell me what looked like a similar part from a 150CDSE as they said it may not fit. I'm going to rebush to see if it reduces leak.
Paula, excellent work could this be a new income stream??
Iain
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it wasn't one of your 'purple rinse' long hair wigs then?
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What annoys me is the water pump, it's too powerful and sucks the water out so fast it overfills the standpipe! I've ensured the standpipe height is within spec but on occasions it still bubbles out the top. WHY make it so powerful??? Our 12 year old Bosch was a third of the price and performed much better.
Same with our superdooper Siemens dryer, looks great but the moisture sensor is bo****ks. My wife has 'dead' fingers which won't activate the touch controls. It's quite amusing to hear her giving the dryer a royal mouthful....better it than me!
Iain
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Doug,
I'm not allowed to use the washing machine, it has too many flashing lights and options. Customer review, never get a Miele too expensive and doesn't get the washing any cleaner or untangled than makes costing half as much!
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John,
I did the wet test just for my own peace of mind.
As to domestic duties I know my place...I make the tea! English breakfast brewed for at least 6 minutes and for her two spoons of sugar.
Noisy top end gt6 mk3
in Engine
Posted
Robbie
To be correct if you draw a line from the centres of the rocker shaft and the tip of the rocker arm (easy with a roller rocker) then this should be 90 degrees to the valve stem when the rocker is half way through its stroke. Adjust the rocker arm to touch the valve so no clearance and measure the stroke of the valve through the cycle and then halve it. If you google rocker arm geometry there are various videos to explain why and how much better than I can. All well and good if you have adjustable pushrods but ideally you want to have the correct geometry and the rocker tip in the centre of the valve stem throughout its cycle. I don't know which one is more important but as you can only realistically adjust the pedestal height (unless you want to pay a lot of money for adjustable pushrods and pedestal shims) go for shims first and see how that alters the strike pattern on the valve head. If you get a more central pattern then check the geometry to see if is looks acceptable.
Have fun....