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Iain T

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Posts posted by Iain T

  1. Gadgetman, all done and engine is back in the car. As the machine shop lapped and balanced the crank and honed the bores etc I got them to reassemble the block as they have a dedicated experienced engine man (ex Burton Eng). 

    I'll take a photo tomorrow of the inlet manifold to show how much material has been removed to even the flow.

    On another matter a friend of mine wants his 14" brake drums machined but is very concerned about getting it done correctly. Anyone know anywhere?

    Iain

  2. Johny, good point I perhaps wouldn't notice a small leak that needs drainage. I'll fit it face down. 

    My next visit to the car is tomorrow when I have to grovel under the car to refit the 6-3-1 collector box (the three pipes came out but it will be a wood block and persuader to get them back in) and the rest of the exhaust. Then onto connecting everything else. I'm enjoying the work but the 60 mile round trip is a pain especially in Covid world! 

    Thanks again 

    Iain 

  3. My mk2 manifold has been reworked similar to Don's and according to CTM it does help. 

    I forgot to take another picture as I've been preoccupied putting the engine back in. Hopefully fire up next Tuesday or Wednesday depending on if I find anymore issues. New King shells, rings (the ones fitted where so tight they couldn't rotate), seals, hone, balancing, reworked rods etc fitted. With the plugs out I'll prime the oil system before crossing everything and firing up! 

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  4. I used an oversized home made blanking plate and mounted the Huco vertically on two rubber bobbins. I used the plastic clamp supplied with the pump. The bobbins needed to be mounted above the old pump fixings to get the best fuel line route. 

    Its been on over a year and working fine (I just know I shouldn't say that!). 

    Iain 

  5. Thanks Nigel, 

    I bought a service kit from the club. I don't have the adapter here but from memory when I spun the clip down the thread the centre piece locked up meaning the original bolt was incorrect thread length? 

    So it seems this may have been fitted incorrectly when the engine was rebuilt 10 years ago! 

    I haven't tried the bolt in the club kit, hopefully this will be OK. 

    Thanks very much for your help. 

    Iain 

     

  6. Morning All,

    When I unbolted the adaptor from the block the assembly 'exploded' into its constituent parts and fell into the dirty oil pan! I assume the threaded banjo tab is only there to align the centre part and spring while bolting assembly onto the block. This tab retains the centre part and spring, am I right is assuming to reassemble providing the centre is proud of the main body ie positive pressure on the centre seal, the system will work or is there a set offset distance? 

    Thanks as usual

    Iain

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  7. Engine is now stripped and just a few faults. It seems the rings, according to CTM are very odd and the bores seem to have been honed by hand with wet and dry!  No cross hatching. The mains have a very small pick up but can be lapped out. Apart from that everything seems to be within spec. The pistons when I took them out seemed OK and again CTM said they are fine. The crank/pistons haven't been balanced and weighed yet so I don't know how good or bad they are but as it is it seemed smooth at higher revs.

    The camshaft is I believe a Bastuck M27TR6PI and for the way I drive didn't work particularly well. I have opted for a hybrid Newman cam with a PH2 lift and power coming in at around 1800 revs. Apart from measuring lift which seems to be 0.280" I can't seem to get a spec on the Bastuck cam, does anyone know?

    The cam has only done 5000 or so miles so is in very good condition if anyone wants to give it a punt PM me.

    Hopefully all will be ready for re-assembly next week.

    Iain

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  8. Jeff,

    I stripped both of my CDS150's down a few months ago and bought a service kit from Rimmers. The box said it was actually a Burlen product, as it has been said they supply a lot of other retailers, but the diaphragms were very thick and stopped the air piston from dropping onto the bridge. Although I could force it down it naturally sat about 2mm off the bridge. I phoned Burlen who although I purchased the kit from Rimmers replaced both of the diaphragms FOC and were nice and thin and worked perfectly. Top tip if the new diaphragms look distorted, mine did, then don't fit them they will give you no end of trouble, needle centring, not dropping correctly,  just insist on replacements.

    As to the choke mechanism as Pete says there is no gasket between the two removable parts only from the carb body to the part with the brass tube in it. I used 1000 grit wet and dry to clean up the surfaces of the disc and all mating surfaces (but it still weeps fuel!). Make sure you put the wet and dry on a flat surface like glass, I used a quartz worktop while my wife was out, to ensure you take an even amount off. 

    Iain

     

  9. I did take a photo of the carb side of the inlet showing what they did to even out the airflow but it was blurred. As you say must have got too excited!

    The place I am using for machining work, CTM, have used Maxspeeding conrods (see post from Yorkshire_spam) and he said although made in China if you use their top grade they are every bit as good as Carrillo, Eagle, K1. He will get me a price, he though less that £500, and I'll let the Forum know.

    Chassis cleaning and prep work now.

    Iain

  10. On 03/04/2020 at 11:07, yorkshire_spam said:

     


    After rebuilt it is now:

    • +60 overbore
    • New pistons
    • Maxspeeding Conrods
    • Duplex vernier timing gear
    • Newman Fast Road cam
    • 10.2:1 compression ratio (head skimmed after headwork done)
    • Peter Burgess "Fast Road" specification head
    • Crank polished (no grind needed! Win!)
    • Piston/Ring/Conrod assemble masses matched to within +/- 1gram across the set

     

    I noticed you have used Maxspeeding conrods, they are aggressively advertised have you used them before?

    Iain

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