haggis

I'm starting to think Major gremlin and looking for a new bottom end to rebuild (or if someone has one out there? you never know) Do you know how interchangeable the parts are between the different 1998cc suffixed engines? I currently have a KE suffix engine, I have assumed that the ML, HC, KE & KC parts would all be compatible with each other. My engine has flat piston tops and step running around each cylinder. Any help appreciated. Thanks Hag

HI Steve & Pete thanks for the replies. Firstly it looked liked a black blob of something like oil residue/gunk, but the engine was still in the car so I couldn't physically get to it to examine closer, I blasted it away with an airline and oil through the gallery and it disappeared onto the garage floor somewhere. Definitely not got heat compensators fitted, they are the basic 150Cd, but in triple format. Using Millers 20/50 new oil, changed filter but I will check to see we don't have a break in the casing. I do have an oil leak again from the front of the engine, somewhere around timing cover, front plate & front of sump which I'm assuming won't help. Currently looking at this guide from a Healey site, which gives some clues to wear in engines based on oil pressure readings. www.wihealeyclub.org/files/Download/Oil%20Pressure%20Diagnostics.pdf Link inserted by Admin Hoping it might help me evaluate the situation much better, really useful guide, have no idea how to post it as a link though, so you will need to copy & paste into browser if interested. Hopefully the run out tomorrow will shed some light. Thanks Hag

Hi Pete and anyone, I have never come across temperature compensators, and have no idea what they might look like. I've fitted the heat shield because the tubuler SS manifold gets super hot under the carbs, read about it on another post so thought it might help and it seems to have. I'm just reading up on oil pressure, back to the old oil problem again. So I ran it gently on Sunday its definately not 40 - 60 psi at 2000RPM, more like 15/20, but it ran and it didn't cut out, which was nice for a change. But second trip went 3000RPM down dual carriage way, from memory it was around 50PSI but when I got home the pressure dropped off to pretty much nothing although it did continue to idle reasonably successfully. Got a friend coming round on Wednesday, we are going to take it out and take various readings as we go, can never remember the data when I get back. Again not sure where to go from here, I've checked pump, checked & replaced relief valve, just looking at a few articles for insight into this problem. I think I may have more blockages in the system! any ideas anyone? Thanks Hag

HI pete, thanks for the offer and it would have been nice to give her a bit of a run and have a cuppa but I've now got an issue with it cutting out when it gets warm. Oil feeder kit was a success but now she gets hot after about ten minutes and cuts out, more problems to solve! Just crafted a heat shield under the carbs as I think it may be fuel evaporation, but I guess thats a different post. Have fun at the show. Hag

Hi Tony, did replacing the electronic ignition solve your problem? I have a similar problem with my GT6 just wanted to know if you resolved it? Thanks Hag

Hi Pete, my warn out brain was probably clutching at straws! But its a real puzzle, I've continued down the line of not having an external feed but I have to agree that this seems the only way to ensure I get enough(or any) oil up there. Secretly I bought one last month, under a secret name 'Just in Case', lucky I did. Thanks for all your help again, fingers crossed this is it for this Post. See you at some shows. Haggis

Hello again, a little update from my previous post. I do, at last have oil getting to my rocker shaft, hurray! , but it still doesn't seem to reach the front 6 rockers., boo!. So another post from me on this if anyone can help or let me know if i'm completely wrong it will be appreciated. Now I have a MKI GT6 car fitted with MKIII engine ( KE series), I noticed when I was doing the sump that the steering rack didn't fit into the recess on the sump to accommodate it Now this means the engine is about an inch higher than the original, causing some rubbing on the inside of the bonnet. Pete said I should expect a dribble of oil at the rocker shaft, now knowing its reaching the first 6 rockers, is there a chance that the dribble is not making it far enough up the shaft, due to its angle?? And does anyone know if the sumps on MKI & MKIII's are interchangeable? For your info 70psi Cold start up, 30psi warm tick over, result I think. As always your help on my continuing saga is always appreciated. Hag

Thanks Pete, Just good to know what to look for, I have filled the shaft this time with oil from the screw so have oil everywhere at the moment, (I was trying to prevent changing the rockers & shaft for the third time! ) I'll let it dry out a bit and give it another go, I'll fit the screw this time and look for minor dribbling, if no luck a restricted feed kit is going on. Thank for your help again. Hag

Well I'm back from rebuilding my engine, and I still don't seem to have oil in the rocker, eeeek!. Now the engine has started and its run up to temperature, I have primed the rocker shaft with oil through the little screw access in the rear pedestal to make sure there is oil there and nothing comes out of the hole, no spurt, no dribble absolutely nothing! can anyone tell me what I should see? I assume that with the screw missing the pressure will drop on the engine as it's a common cause of pressure drop, does this mean the shaft isn't pressurised, so therefore no oil? should the rockers be dripping/spurting with oil when running? As always your help would be appreciated, its a beautiful car, I just want to drive it now, think I might have to fit the rocker feed Kit! Thanks Hag

Thanks John, I guessed as much, good advice to run one all the way to the battery, I'll stick one on and see what happens. Haggis

Hi Thrusterman, reading this thread not sure if the guy in Hampshire mentioned is called Tom Airey in Bramdean near winchester, he runs 'Airey Tuning' and knows his onions when it comes to tuning and especially carburettors. He ain't cheap now at a round £100/£120 per carb but he has a rolling road and he's good old skool, he transformed my vitesse 6 from a 59BHP car to an 80BHP car in an hour. I had tried home tuning for twenty years but never again, its worth every penny to go to someone who knows what they are doing, but its best to have all the ancillaries in tip top condition. I got triple Strombergs, with a bespoke manifold on another car but I think a pair of HS6's as mentioned would be better and probably not drink so much. Haggis

Hi everyone/anyone, can someone confirm if I need an engine earth lead on my GT6? I have one on my Vitesse from the front engine plate to the steering rack mount, but not on my GT6. Both are converted to negative earth and run alternators, what might the effects be of not having one. Haggis

Hi sean, I've got the same new Rimmer rack as you, and have no idea how to put more grease in, if you do find out let me know. I fitted polybush rack rubbers myself and they fitted just like yours, drove it for the summer, hated the feedback so removed and fitted the solid rack mounts. Like them so much have fitted them on both my cars now, also bonus of a little more clearance to the sump on my GT6. Thanks Jason

Sounds like your having a great time, can't find any evidence of flexi pipe runs or tee off the pressure switch, maybe it was for another car I often buy bits for my two cars together. Enjoy your holiday. Hag

Ok great thanks, I'll take a look. Hag

HI everyone, as recommended, I'am fitting some relays to my headlight circuits, now its a vitesse with twin headlights, do I need to fit 3 no relays? I have bought 30amp fused relays and have assumed they will all need a separate live battery feed (i.e x3) and also assume they can share a earth? Obviously the way I see it (I don't do electrics very well) there are only two sets of direct feeds for the headlights in the loom, Blue/White & Blue/Red, in the existing loom the blue/white & earths are 'Piggy Backed' across the headlights (main beam, both headlights on) and the Blue/Red is on its own (assuming dipped headlight) but all sharing the same earth(black). It might just be simpler to ask if anyone has a wiring diagram with relays for twin headlights? and also if anyone has fitted the relays on the vertical bit of bonnet between wheel arch & bonnet top, where the horn is mounted, with success? Thanks Hag

Well I eventually got around to pulling the cam, a little bit too much end float but cam in great condition, with the benefit of a new looking pulley and a double timing chain too. Now when I stared down cam hole I noticed a big blob of black stuff about the 2 o'clock position on the rear journal, I think I've found the culprit! with some persistant air blowing I think I've cleared the blockage. Its difficult to see/access with the engine still in the car, so stuck some oil into the rear gallery access hole, fired some air behind it and hey presto, a perfect squirt of oil into the rear journal. RESULT! Engine starting to go back together now, still got me fingers crossed It works, sump gone on easy with the rack removed, haven't fitted the rack yet but should be easy if I cut the 'U' bolts down. I'm thinking, if all this doesn't work (trying not too be negative) I will fit a restricted rocker feed kit as a temporary measure so i can still get some summer triumph fun in, and whip it out next year. It would appear from the previous owners invoices that one was bought some time ago, not sure if it was ever fitted. Is there any way of telling? I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks Hag

Thanks Pete, I think the swear box could probably pay for a professional rebuild already! Sometimes you kind of know what to do but its reassuring to find people with more knowledge to help for guidance, and thats what this forum is for, I hope one day to be able to dispatch some of my Triumph wisdom on to others too. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks Hag

HI Pete, thanks for your response, I decided to take the sump off in situ before I read the message. What a job, but so much easier if you take the steering rack out, why do they make the steering rack 'U' bolts so long, I'm cutting mine down on the way back in. I had some grey sludge in the sump (expected) although a bit gritty and a really good oil pump, which was all easily within tolerance and lots to go. I guess the question is where do I go from here? I've found nothing wrong so far, air passes through the hole down to the cam when I rotate it, air passes through the gallery into the sump? I was thinking as I've gone this far to remove the Cam to check the oil grooves as I have a leak in the front cover oil seal. Any suggestions of where to blow air next? or any suggestions generally? I think in hindsight I should have primed the rocker shaft with oil through the little retaining screw hole before proceeding (what a numpty) but I assumed it would fill up quickly from the pump, but I'm guessing it wouldn't have been long before the oil ran out. Thanks Hag

Well I tried turning it over on the starter but no oil out of hole in the block! I did try compressed air down through the hole into the engine and the tone changed as I turned the engine over by hand on the crank, which I would assume means that the cam groove is working, but no oil. Is this because there is no pressure build up to help circulate around the engine?i.e the head is removed and the bowels of the engine are open through gaps between the cam followers for the oil to drop down to the sump? or am I talking absolute nonsense? I think there is only way to truly tell and that is to strip it all down, cam, sump, pump an all! Any advice welcome. Thanks Hag

Hi Pete, I thought that was the case, I'll give it go and see what happens. Thanks Hag

Hi Pete & Clive , thanks for your responses, rocker completely dry not just front end ones, I will inevitably take the shaft apart and have a good look when I start putting back together. I'll have a go at moving the cam and seeing if I can get the holes to align. Do you know, and this may be silly question, but can I turn over the engine with no head on to see if the pump is pushing the oil up through the engine block? or will I cause damage? Hag

Hi Pete, normal kind of 60psi driving dropping down to 20psi when warm for tick over, but I think this is a blockage. I've taken the head off and it looks rather good, I will give it a good squirt through and hopefully shift this blockage. Thanks Hag

Hi Scrapman, no don't know history of engine, have no idea if it had a external feed, as there was a little bit of oil in the original rocker I'm assuming I blocked it further with the flush. Bottom line the heads coming off tonight! and if i can't find anything the sumps coming off tomorrow! It will be an interesting voyage of discovery to see if the previous owner was a complete Numpty or not. I was really hoping after 37 years of maintaining my lovely 1600 vitesse that my next purchased one would require nothing but driving and a bit of routine maintenance, but it is a Triumph, and done to someone else's standards, I should have known better. But it is awesome looking & sounding can't wait to drive it for more than ten miles before it breaks down. Thanks Hag

HI Pete, yes run and driven 15miles, lifted the cover off and it looked and the front 3 sets of rockers were completely grey. I don't know if anyone has any experience of Kent cams, are there any known problems with the oil pick up to the rocker?? Clutching at straws really I know they are very well engineered product, I'm guessing the head needs to come off. Hag