haggis

Hi Paul, I converted my GT6 studs to 12mm last weekend, I have fitted some Dunlop D1's from JBW and they come with a tapered nut sleeve with an open thread and an internal hex head fitting. http://www.johnbrownwheels.com/Shop/P-1363-12x1.5mm---Star-Head-Chrome-Wheel-Nut.html Now the internal thread was a little short for the original steel wheels (by about 3 -5mm), obviously perfect on the Alloys, but Im pretty sure they can get them in various lengths. If anyone knows the torque wrench settings for alloys on 12mm studs would be greatly appreciated. Hag

Hi everyone, thanks for all your comments, I agree that the standard radiator would be fine, I have a crank fan and standard rad on my 1600 Vitesse and its great, took her out yesterday in the heat and the needle sat at just under 'N' for normal temperature for the whole day. The GT6 is a different story, the radiators core looks original to me and having checked the pump, heater rad & thermostat is looking like the culprit of my overheating issues. To be honest if I could afford the recored original I would, as messing around with modifying hoses and building new rad brackets sorting out electrical bits is going to be time consuming, but I like a challenge, and if it gets her on the road quicker and is cheaper then I'm up for that. Still love to know if John can remember what fans he used? Thanks Hag

Thanks Everyone, and special thanks for the pictures john, that looks like a real professional and well thought out install and good to see the rad stayed vertical (ish) makes it look more normal.(which i like) Can I ask what fans you used? I have Kenlowe 12" but its a blower, so was planning to shell out on a new suction fan, was looking at Revotec as they have the lovely M22 screw in fan controller to fit the VW rad (£65), but my budget may only stretch to a single 12" fan plus all the bits at their prices. I think your fans and controller may be original VW? and did it take long to do? As Clive mentioned the original VW fan and shroud sounds good, but i'm assuming this is where the radiator angle changes drastically as they seem to stick out miles. Thanks hag

Hi Clive, thanks for the response, will a single fan be ok on the larger rad( 12")? I've never heard of a few fan, was going along the lines of revotec as the do a m22 fan control unit that fits into the rad rather than the hose. I had assumed I would need 2 fans for the larger one? Thanks Hag

Thanks Dave, I was tempted to re-core the original but the cost seemed ridiculous and it seems slightly small even for modern standards, not concerned about originality either so the golf conversion seems good, I had considered that people might have gone all in for the bigger one which is the reason for the post really. I think I've seen Roy laceys' video on You tube, but i'll see if I can find anymore info. Cheers Hag

Hi Everyone, I'm about to undertake a radiator conversion on my Gt6 Mk1. There are several options I've heard about but the VW golf radiator seems the easiest conversion, can anyone advise me on the best size? there appears to be 2 different varieties available core sizes 525mm x 320mm (overall 620mm x 320mm) or 430mm x 320mm (overall size 530mm x 320mm), based on my measurements they both would appear to fit and there is no difference in price. So the reason for the swap is I've spent so much money now on getting my GT6 on the road, that everything this year is coming down to economics. I've been quoted £200 for the recore and a VW radiator is £29.00, so it pretty much a no brainer on finance. Just not sure what size to choose? from my understanding the standard set up in good condition is ok ish, which means to me it could do with a little more capacity and a modern core which is why I'm considering using the smaller VW radiator, but every conversion I've looked at shows the bigger rad. Is bigger better in this case? I understand there may be some over cooling from a too large radiator, and obviously you have to buy 2 fans to fit as well! Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks Haggis

Hi Yakooza, I feel your frustration. Having just stripped a KE & HC engine, I was looking at the picture of the head you posted. Now there is a post on here from me about Pistons, in which I had similar questions regarding water holes in heads. My pictures show a late MK2 vitesse head waterways. My thinking is that the head maybe wrong for the engine, I was thinking of swapping mine around but the waterways didn't seem to line up properly. Just a quick question has your KE engine got flat or domed pistons? I ask this because I have a domed head (they are taller than the flat top piston ones) sat in my garage I could take a look at to see if it matches your pic or not. Hag

Hi Pete, that's great, there's a good chance this will cure my leak. Thanks Jason

hi again, slight query here, can someone out there confirm the torque settings for a late 2.0 6 cylinder HC cylinder head bolts, apparently the later engines have a higher torque setting? I'm currently doing mine up to 46lb/ft. Thanks Hag

Hi john, no plans as of yet to do this mod, I have retorqued and wrapped the dipstick, just waiting for rain to stop before going on test drive. Feeling like I should have built an arc not a gt6. Thanks hag

Hi all, and as always thanks. I bought 'uprated' washers & nuts from rimmers, which I thought would be best, can't remember if it's the new items making the noise. I wasn't aware they were upgradable to 7/16" are they the 'torque' bolts you refer to with the built in head and washer? I don't think I'll be buying a new electronic torque wrench in the near future, hopefully I can borrow one. Thanks Hag

Hi guys, thanks for your posts, mine were not smooth and in fact a bit 'clicky' when I did the final torque, so backing off a bit sounds good. I'll have a chat with my local garage see if they can lend me an electric torque wrench. Hopefully this will stop the oil coming out and save me from removing my head again. Thanks Hag

Hi again, just had a look at testing the torque values on the head studs, I started by increasing the torque from 26lb/ft to 36ilb/ft to the final figure of 45 lb/foot. They were all fine at 26, 3 moved and torqued up to 36 and finally 6 moved and torqued up to 45. I Was reading the forum and saw that ( I think it was Pete) said you should undo them by half a turn and then torque back up again, should this be done now? And if so do you undo them all in sequence by half turn then do them all back up in sequence to the final torque figure or individually? Thanks again hag

Hi guys, thanks again for your thoughts, I didn't run a die down the threads but I did thoroughly clean them and blow out with compressed air. I had considered dipstick, although loose and on one trip found it raised by 10mm, the felt stop was not covered in oil and I assumed this was not the cause, since then it's not lifted. I do have a triple stromberg set up with a pipe running from the rocker to catch tank and back to the inlet manifold via a PCV (from a 2.0 jeep) as my breathing system. The garage start up involved running til warm, with varying rev's then straight to tune up garage were it was rolling road tested but not past 4000 rpm. Since then I have been taking it easy with gear changes at anywhere between 2 & 3k rpm trying to put some local miles on before re torque.' I couldn't get a feeler gauge in the gap between the block & head.' Think I'll look at dipstick first, re-torque head then see, all the time taking it out on little test drives as suggested accelerating and letting the engine brake. Thanks for your help, I'll let you know how I get on. Hag

Hi Doug/Pete, I bought a new torque wrench especially as mine was 20 years old, its a 'Teng" which i believe is good quality and fairly accurate, I also double checked with a friends' and my old one too. I'm guessing first step just to re-torque head back down see if it makes a difference? or is it head off, new gasket & re-torque?. I'll check with feeler gauges, is it worth torquing higher or when engine warm?, I have always assumed cold is best. I did use existing head studs with some new and some old nuts. Thanks again. Hag

Hi Doug, no other symptoms, run fantastic with loads of power, 60/70 PSi 2000/2500 rpm. It is fitted with an oil cooler and spin off adaptor to suit with a thermo valve as well (slight leak from this but mended), the leak is right up there at the join between the Block & Head, the engine number flange is wet, the dynamo lump on the block is wet on top and the lugs for the coil too, its coming from the top and working its way down. I'm guessing first stage should be to re-torque maybe? but it has leaked since day one and I know I torqued it up good and proper like. I have just read another forum post on this and someone was recommending increasing the torque figures by 10lb/ft and to do it while the engine is warm, any thoughts? HAg

Hi everyone, you may be aware from previous posts, I have been rebuilding a Mk2 Vitesse HC engine to fit in my Gt6 Mk1 following a disastrous impulse purchase from the dreaded fleabay. In the process of rebuilding it I have learn't so much from the forum and can only thank you all so far for putting up with. So, having completed the rebuild and added a lovely overdrive gearbox, it has been rolling road tuned to perfection for the 'running in period' of which I have completed around 200 miles, and with triple strombergs and an extractor manifold is running like a never before and putting a smile on my face every time I drive it even driving it below 2500RPM. But, it has an awful oil leak on the left hand side of the block on the same side as the coil, distributor etc. This leak only occurs when the vehicle is hot and driving, when stationary hot or cold there is evidence of the leak but no sign of where it is coming from, its all over the side of the engine between the distributor pedestal and the alternator. It would seem to be cascading down from the head gasket level as everything above this is oil free. I have looked at core plugs, distributor pedestal gasket & O ring, along with all the gallery screws, dispstick, relief valve and sump and there is no sign that oil is being sprayed from any of them. The head gasket was a Payen good quality one, the head has been skimmed and the block top faced up in the machine shop, all torqued to correct figures. The plan was to run it in for 500 miles (Santa Pod would have been nice), re-torque head, oil change, valve clearances etc, and then drive it properly. This Triumph ownership thing is mighty frustrating, i'm not sure how we have all stuck at it for so long! (30 years for me). As always any help/suggestions greatly appreciated Thanks HAg

Hi, thanks Casper, I was wondering if anyone had any details, I'd looked on the web but couldn't find anything specific. It's good news for me, i now have the correct one to fit and an ok spare just in case. Thanks for your help. Hag

Hi, can anyone tell me if a Lucas 22D with number 41305B is suitable for a HC late Vitesse engine, the weights are stamped 11'. I have checked another spare I have and its marked 10'. Neither seem to match numbers I have read in an old courier article. As usual any help greatly appreciated. Thanks hag

Hi and thanks for the swift replies, I like a good rant but don't get me started on suppliers. I had better get myself a new coil then, might actually make it to the mot in it this time. Hag

Hello everyone, managed to rebuild me vitesse engine and get it running a treat, but have probelm with breaking down when hot. I've read the other posts about this matter but just wanted to double check something, so here goes. Lucas 22d distributor fitted with (shop bought) magnetronic ignition and (shop bought) standard 12 Volt coil. now the car runs a treat for the first 5-10miles, then just isn't quite right and then coughs and splutters and misfires. Put a new (cold) ignition coil on runs a treat again until the coil gets hot. Now I've read the other posts and it would appear that what I need is a 3 ohm 12Volt non ballasted coil, I have 3 coils to play with all showing 1.5 ohm resistance across the terminals which get hot and fail every time. Will simply a 3 ohm coil cure this? Thanks Hag.