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Gully

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Posts posted by Gully

  1. How to listen for crank bearing noise

    in Engine

    Posted

    19 hours ago, daverclasper said:

    Did notice some 2 shims on each side (look the same as the suspension to chassis ones, for camber altering, though no time for a good look) I think between the mounts and the suspension turrets, though can't check now.

    Is this common for fettling, or suggests a problem?.

    Thanks, Dave

    The shims are normal.

    Gully

  4. GT6 MK3 rear lights

    in Electrical System

    Posted

    My GT6 has the mix of separate and claw earths for the rear lights. After everything was disassembled for painting last year and then reassembled, I had the joy of chasing a decent earth for the nearside rear lights - ironically, it was the non-claw earth side that was the pain, but a crinkle washer on the earth connection to penetrate the paint (internally) was sufficient to get everything working in harmony again.

    Gully

  9. Metal filings on drain plug

    in Gearbox & Overdrive

    Posted

    5 hours ago, postman said:

    Yes , but mimosa is so common (yes, I spotted your avatar Doug 😁).

     

    Mimosa is not common - every Mimosa car is a slightly different colour as it fades by the day and each Mimosa spray can / touch-up stick is also different, which is why many of our cars are 50 Shades of Mimosa! 🤣

    Gully

  10. Re-profiling choke cam???

    in Fuel System

    Posted

    18 hours ago, Jeffds1360 said:

    :) don't pull it out fully!

    I prefer a few revs at 1/4, a bit choke at 1/3 and cold start at 1/2. Only freezing cold would I even contemplate full choke, with a very cold engine too. My screw is touching/.005 thou.

    I think every engine has its vagaries! Mine likes full choke to initially fire in all weathers (which it does pretty much immediately), but as soon as it fires I reduce the choke to a third, then reduce accordingly as the engine warms and will tick over without the slightly elevated RPM. 

    The workshop manual specifies one sixteenth of an inch separation between the fast idle screw and cam.

    Gully

  11. Anyone been out in their car?

    in General

    Posted

    No gritting of the roads in Herts over the past few days, despite the air frosts. https://www.hertfordshire.gov.uk/services/highways-roads-and-pavements/roadworks-and-road-closures/severe-weather/gritting-the-road/gritting-routes.aspx

    I took the GT6 for a quick run around the local estate roads on Saturday morning to warm the oil before completing an oil change. Then a slightly longer run around lunchtime to the supermarket for fuel and to check for leaks and seeps.

    Gully

  12. Rear hub

    in Drivetrain & Rear Axle

    Posted

    40 minutes ago, Roger K said:

     Why couldn't Triumph have fitted a nice, simple little live axle at the back?  

    Because the PR team was focused on Triumph's marketing claim that all their cars had independent suspension... There's a story in one of the Triumph history books of a live axle Spitfire being built to address the tuck under - it needed some small chassis changes and raided the TR4 parts bin, but was quickly crushed as it handled fantastically well, but was 'off message' in PR terms...

    Gully

  13. Ancient tyres :- bin them

    in General

    Posted

    15 hours ago, 68vitesse said:

    Been phoning around for four tyres for my Vitesse, told them l wanted a name I reconized and tyres under a year old. Took the wheels in this morning on collection two where dated 19 and two 20, now promising me the job we be done as ordered and promised by Wednesday AM.

    Understand you can legally be sold tyres up to five years old which is half their recommended life.

    Regards

    Paul

    I got caught out by that from a local tyre centre - didn't think to check the date codes when the Hankooks were fitted and only realised some months later they would have been 4 years old when they were new to me!

    Gully

  14. TR6 Headrest

    in Bodywork & Fittings

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    It follows the curve of the spine (roughly) for driver comfort. The other way round, it would be like sitting at the Dentist's all the time...

    Which is an issue that afflicts many modern vehicles - head restraints that push your head forwards uncomfortably. I had an issue with my modern car and went online looking for a solution and there are hundreds of threads on various forums with people replacing head restraints, removing them, reversing them, bending their supporting legs... Apparently, the manufacturers' thinking is that if you are already in contact with the head restraint, rear impact whiplash will be reduced. Seems to have been a growing problem from 2017 onwards.

    Gully   

  16. Front wishbone bushes

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    58 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Surely everytime you go over a bump, the car goes up in the air, the weight is transferred from the bottom and the bolt rises up in the bush? Might not be a big deal but over time it adds up.

     

    Surely neither the bolt nor the inner metal sleeve should be moving when tight? So even if the sleeve is a slightly rattling fit on the bolt when all is loose, when all is nipped up, laden or unladen the only movement should be between the bush and the clamped sleeve?

    Gully

  19. Anyone been out in their car?

    in General

    Posted

    I went out in the GT6 last Saturday to give it a good run. The roads were dry and salt washed off by the torrential rain a couple of days earlier. The first few attempted flakes of snow were falling as I got back, arriving home about 15 min before the gritters were due out (Herts have a great online service that tells you when they are gritting, which routes and 8g or 15g deposit). Gave the wheel arches a wipe out afterwards, but they were clean and dry anyway.

    Gully

  22. 1500 Spitfire engine tap/rattle

    in Engine

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Conor L said:

    Today the noise that has been driving me mad has been identified! Stethoscope arrived this morning and it appears that number 6, 7 cam followers are tapping like mad. Fine on initial start but after about a minute of running they are not sounding happy. Bit frustrating as they were new along with the cam when I built the engine but relieved its nothing too serious. Also funny how I didn't hear this with my trusty screwdriver so the Stethoscope was a good investment. Thanks for all your patience and advice. Thinking I might pull the head off and sort them out properly instead of just leaving it. Car isn't due to go away until the end of next month anyway so it'll give me something to do haha.

    Hi Conor,

    Worth a quick check - I had a tapping noise coming from this area and it was the pushrod hitting the cam follower as the push rod socket was not separating from the ball on the valve clearance adjuster.

    Gully

    • Thanks 1

  23. Bell Semi Sports Exhaust System

    in Engine

    Posted

    3 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:

    the small silencer between the chassis rails that was specified for the Mk2 but deleted for the Mk3.

    That's interesting. The Triumph parts books (and Canley excerpts) show that small silencer as a Mk3 fitment, but not present on the Mk2 standard exhaust. 

    On my Mk3 I have the standard cast iron manifold connected to a Mk2 semi sports system which is straight through to the back box. I've never found it too loud and it has a nice resonance around 3000 rpm! 😀

    Gully 

  24. 3/8 wheel studs, nuts?

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Sounds like you've talked yourself full circle to reverting to the original 3/8 studs Triumph designed the car to have in the first instance and that have been adequate for the past 50 years! The main trigger for people changing tends to be the fitting of alloy wheels, which in many cases results in the original studs being too short for the new nuts; couple that with wider tyres and longer 7/16 or 12mm studs make sense. If you're set on original steels and centre-retaining nuts...

    Gully  

  25. GT6 camber adjustment

    in Chassis, Suspension & Steering

    Posted

    Simple set square / plumb bob will work fine. Start off with the same number of shims at each of the 4 wishbone connection points (2 or 3). Let is settle for a bit (sounds like a fresh build), then re-check after a few miles. If you find the steering isn't centring properly when driving, then you can tweak the castor by removing or adding shims to either front or rear wishbone mountings.

    Gully

    • Like 1
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