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Gully

TSSC Member
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Posts posted by Gully

  1. 7 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Some excellent photos there, but doesn't it make you wonder that the Javelin only lasted from 1958 to 1966 - 8 years - and the Triumph has lasted for almost sixty?

    The Gloster Dragmaster... Struggled in performance terms against its contemporary - the Hawker Hunter. Fuel hungry (two relatively inefficient Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire engines) and not a slippery airframe. The delta wing with high T-tail gave a few tricky stall characteristics too. Gloster proposed a 'thin wing' version to improve performance, but this was not ordered. The final flying one retired from Boscombe Down to Duxford in the mid-1970's and is still on display there in a red/white colour scheme.

    Gully

    • Thanks 1
  2. 25 minutes ago, cliff.b said:

    Ah right. So what is this white/synthetic grease used for 🤔

    I've a tube of white grease - used by me mainly for my bike. It's pretty waterproof, but very temperature sensitive, so I've rarely used it on the car. Might be a bit on the handbrake cable where it runs through the body, but can't think of anywhere else I've used it. Of course, your white grease may be completely different... 😄

    Gully

  3. 36 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    'Er Indoors just put £100 in the Freelander and it's 3/4 full. I think our local TSSC is going to have to cut down on the long 100+ mile Club runs, too.

    Glad my GT6 filler cap is lockable with the price of super unleaded. May start adding single malt as a cheap top up...

    Filled up the modern diesel last week at Tesco to the tune of £86 - at least that gave just under 600 miles range. My trip to Scotland at the end of the month is going to be pricey - we were thinking of taking my wife's convertible, but as the diesel estate uses half the fuel it's a no-brainer.

    Gully

  4. 22 hours ago, PatK said:

    Hi all, I may soon have to disassemble the vertical link/hub carrier on my rotoflex Vitesse. The problem is that the Official workshop manual that I have does not deal with this and is probably an earlier version. Does anyone know at what time the manual changed to include this information and where I might be able to purchase one  My manual does not have a date just a part number 512947 on the first page. Perhaps there was a supplement covering the dismantling and re assembly issued later? Thanks for any advice.

    Pat

    The part number quoted is correct for the GT6 / Vitesse manual, but the Mk 2 / Rotoflex information was added in the 2nd issue. The final edition is the 3rd issue, which includes the late GT6 Mk 3 supplements.

    Gully

  5. Whilst in France last week I read a few bits on Facebook about diesel shortages back here. However, I dropped into Tesco in Baldock on the way home from Stanstead and filled up - and wondered what on earth all the fuss was about!

    Gully 

  6. I've pondered over this thread and reached the conclusion that Doug's diagnosis of water in his fuel is incorrect. Having re-examined the evidence, it's clear that the cause of his car's failure to proceed was the act of wearing slippers. These are not the preserve of the GT6 driver and should be restricted to Triumph 2000 drivers. The car, having identified Doug's faux-pas, showed him the error of his ways, allowing him to return home at a safe pace and change into more appropriate footwear, whereupon the car (and Doug) could then go about their journey as per normal. I'm confident this theory can be tested - next winter, leave your car for 3 months with E10 fuel in it and then try to drive it in your slippers...

    Gully 

    • Haha 5
  7. Not convinced driving standards are getting worse. Many people have done daft things when first out from under the watchful gaze of their driving instructor - not sure that's anything new. However, roads are much more congested than they were (even by my reckoning and I've only been driving since 1987), which leads to impatience and in my view impatience is a far greater cause of accidents than simply speed. 

    Another factor is more powerful cars. I would have had to work my original 1200cc Mk 1 Astra very hard to break most non-urban speed limits! Now, small cars are generally pretty nippy, inviting impatient, drivers to go for gaps...

    Gully

  8. After a morning sat at the PC in Teams meetings, listening to the breeze 'freshen', I wandered into the car port around 1pm to see one end of a fence panel had popped out of it's post (flexing in the wind) and was rattling about 100mm from the side of my GT6! Only the car port guttering and roof edge was keeping it off the car... Car is now out on the driveway.

    Lost another couple of fence panels during the afternoon and one fence post (concrete post fitted a few years ago with insufficient postcrete).

    Gully 

    • Sad 1
  9. 5 hours ago, Josef said:

    The way to correct this is to park the car with the wheels dead ahead and disconnect the UJ that connects the lower column to the steering rack. Then rotate the inner column till the indicator cancel cam is correctly aligned (east as you say). After that, refit all the switchgear and test, then remove and refit the steering wheel so it’s correctly orientated. No need to mess with the  actual wheel alignment!

    Exactly what I had to do with my GT6.

    Gully

  10. Don't get too despondent about supposed professionals' work - many of us have been caught out with both mechanical and bodywork being to a shocking standard. I went to a local 'classic specialist' to have the offside a lower rear quarter repaired on my GT6. It came back looking fine, but without the photo record of work I'd asked for. 16 months later, I noticed corrosion bubbling on the arch again and when I took out the boot boards found the area very wet (probably from having been caught out by the weather on a recent run). Poking around inside the lower wing showed it to be full of flaked rust. When I took the car to a proper body shop (recommended by a few people locally), they stripped back the area to show the original rusty panel had been hammered back into the boot and a plate tacked over it before being covered with filler. There was nothing sealing the plate to the original inner panels, hence the water ingress. None of the actual rusty steel had been cut out first time around. I hate having to pay for something to be done twice!

    Gully

    • Sad 1
  11. 22 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

    Was told that the Club shop leads had more resistance than my mechanic would like for my Gt6. 

    That's an 'interesting' allegation that I'd like to see expanded and explained further, please.

    Thanks, 

    Gully

  12. I've always used Super Unleaded, so I'm used to the premium price tag. Tesco Momentum is the cheapest way to buy that grade around here (Herts.). Okay, my GT6 always seems smoother on BP Super Unleaded than any other brand, but with the current fuel prices, it sees Tesco Momentum more often than not. 

    Gully

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