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Gully

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Posts posted by Gully

  1. 19 minutes ago, poppyman said:

    Hi Iain, to check the rear drums clamp off the rear brakes and see if the vibration stops. It is safe as your back brakes don't do a lot anyway. It wont work if you have braided hoses though.

    Tony.

    Or simply pull on the handbrake when driving to see if the vibration is there and of a similar frequency.

    Gully

  2. The push looks very much like the one supplied with my Motolita boss. The boss should have a hole through it to allow the sprung-loaded connector to contact the slip ring described by NM above. Motolita actually supplied 2 with my boss. The wire from this connects to the horn push. The other contact is the spring you can see which holds the push unit in place and contacts the boss. When you press the horn, the slip ring is connected to the column via the boss (and column earths) to complete the circuit.

    Gully 

  3. 1 hour ago, Bobtaylor said:

    Hi, any suggestions please for the alternative to Champion N-9Y.  An internet site lists the NGK alternative as BP6ES. I have just looked at my car and it has NGK 5E fitted?

    Bob

    I've always run NGK BP6ES in my GT6. Not tried the multi-electrode plugs yet. I did try Champion N9Y, but found the car didn't enjoy running on choke with them.

    Gully

  4. 3 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:

    Sorry, but thin form nuts are unlikely to withstand the torque required on the out axle shaft. It would be potentially dangerous to fit anything of a lesser speciation than the original part.

    Nigel

    Fair enough - was looking for a solution to an odd problem, but looks like the issue should be solved using the smaller Canley nut, with the problem being caused by the original nut (and washer) being oversize. The Spalding site does recommend talking to them about performance requirements and specifications before ordering, which is sound advice and a good service.

    Gully

    • Like 1
  5. The other clanger to avoid is positioning your door mirror so you can't fully open the quarterlight! I must sit taller than the PO who fitted them and the additional tilt back on the mirror means the driver's quarterlight fouls it. Passenger side is mounted in dimensionally the same position on the door, but the quarterlight clears it.

    Gully  

  6. Before I changed to CV shafts on my GT6 I bought a spare nyloc just in case I needed it after a job I was planning to do. It came from either Canley or Paddocks and was a much deeper nut than the original. If I'd used it, I don't believe the nylon section would have engaged with the thread sufficiently to lock it, which sounds as if it could be the issue you are encountering.

    My CV shafts with the original bearing design use a shaped nut that is peened into a channel to achieve locking.

    Gully 

  7. 17 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:

    Here’s a recent thread on this, a picture of the Pete Lewis’ balancer half way down. Mine is very similar, cost £5 on eBay and works fine. 

     

    I have one of those too - bought via Chic Doig's eBay shop around 5 years ago.

    Gully

  8. 3 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

    Sorry lads - my goal here is preservation of the gearbox i.e. less shiny metal in my old fluid. I've had great success with Amsoil ATF in my Classic Mercedes, so am a believer in synthetics from specialists brands like Redline and Amsoil, in the differential and gearbox. 

    The above oil is yellow metal safe and rated GL4. Cost aside, wise move? Is it the right viscosity? 

    The specs look right to me, including the viscosity.

    Gully

  9. 1 hour ago, Mathew said:

    Another classic beyond my grasp! I was lucky to own two gt6's but these are too high now. Spitfires still seam low by comparison,  it must be because i own two!!!

    Given that the Spitfire in the same sale went for £19k plus premium, I'm not sure that's true! 😄

    Gully

  10. 13 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

    Gully,

    Just checked Haynes (Never wrong! :blink:) It says GT6, 20 front and 24 rear, no mention of tyre type or year. My Euro manual says GT6s 20 24 for cross ply and 22 26 radials. The WSM says 20 24 is for a GT6 MK1 and the MK3 supplement gives tyre pressures for year types '71,  '72, and '73. 1 up, 2 up, or laden.  These vary between 24 30, 24 28, 24 34 and 30 26. (30 26? Really?!!)

    From the WSM this makes the Gully-mobile a '72 :) which I think is correct!

     All very confusing and useless information because you don't run modern tyres that low. I run 28 front 30 rear, judged and set on how it's handling, which is almost the same as you. :lol:

    Doug

    Nothing like consistency! 😄 I'm intrigued by the reversal in pressures for the last models - have you ever tried the hard front, softer rear on your '73? 

    Mine's a '70/'71 Mk 3, so even the WSM and owner's manual (extract below) don't align... Really is a case of going by feel!

    Gully

    Tyre Pressures Owners Manual.jpg

  11. My GT6 made its way down to Hampshire last week for it's Spring holiday - we've some building work starting at home this week, so needed the Triumph out of the way. It's now residing in my parents' garage. Had a good run down via the A505, M1, M25 and M3, before hopping off the motorway to cut down to Odiham, Alton and then through the Meon Valley to the coast. Around 120 miles and just under half a tank of fuel.

    I'll be visiting once a month until the building works are complete and the GT6 can return home!

    Gully

    • Like 1
  12. 1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:

    .As to pressures my GT6 is supposed to have 26 on the back and 22 on the front according to the manual, .

    Doug 

    Really?! That's interesting, as my orange owners manual for the Mk 3 GT6 says pre-1973 (ie. Rotaflex) 24 front, 28 rear, but 1973- (swing spring) 30 front and 26 rear. All based on 155/80 tyres. With modern tyres (I run 175/70 R13 on 5 inch rims) I set the pressures on my 1970 GT6 at 27 front, 30 rear - if I go as low as 24 on the front the sidewall 'slop' is really noticeable.

    Gully

  13. Presumably the R in the BUR6ET reference means they are resistive plugs? Is there a non-resistive version, as I've always avoided the suppression / resistive NGKs for my GT6 based on advice from this forum (and elsewhere)?

    Thanks,

    Gully

  14. I changed one on my GT6 a couple of years ago and found it pretty straightforward.

    I didn't like the idea of jacking under the sump, so jacked a block of wood positioned along the front flange area of the sump to take the weight. I then removed the two bolts holding the mount to the turret and the 4 bolts holding the plate to the engine and removed the unit complete. I then loosely reassembled the engine mounting plate with the new engine mount and reversed the process. From recollection, I used a pry bar to gently shift the engine a little (opening the V) to ensure all the bolts aligned to start them off.

    Gully   

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