Gully
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Posts posted by Gully
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If you mean this set up: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1320 , then the split pin holds the castellated nut. Does that outer race rotate on the stub axle and move against the nut? Who knows...
Gully
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1 hour ago, Aidsaunders said:
There’s a cap on the original setup that resists rotation, it’s fitted before the split pin. Also, the setup is torqued up so there’s no end float. Any expansion has nowhere to go.
There's a flat washer with a D shaped hole which sits between the castellated nut and the bearing. It locates on the flat on the threaded section to remove any rotational force on the nut itself. The nut is not torqued to prevent it moving - it's tightened, then backed off, with the split pin then preventing it moving from the set position.
When my GT6 was MOT'd last year, the chap who does it had an apprentice with him and he was explaining to him the need for movement on the taper bearings.
Gully
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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Paul next time you are round here lets run her over the tracking gear
going light is more down to the lift from the lack of down force upsetting the static toe in
back to checking with 150 lb on each seat ( or just we use rent a crowd
i could take the kit to the Pub on monday ????
Pete
Hi Pete,
Unless my two trusty pieces of timber (loose copies of your patented design!) are out of calibration, it's all set to the book. It's not skittish, just lighter, and no general directional stability issues. Given the time of year, I suspect we'd be in the dark in the car park on Monday, but worth a 2nd pair of eyes next time I'm over with you in the daylight!
Many thanks,
Paul
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10 hours ago, DerekS said:
£65 in 1964 was a considerable amount of money mind, what's the equivalent now I wonder?
Based on general inflation, it's c. £1,685.00.
Gully
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I had to replace the multi-way bullet connector for the dipped beam headlamps on my GT6 recently. I squirted the new (and existing) connectors with this spray to hopefully ward off corrosion for a little longer:
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I was offered the chin spoiler by the previous owner of my GT6, but turned it down as it wasn't a standard fitment in 1970/71 and I couldn't see myself fitting it. However, I've often wondered (usually when I'm doing 70mph!) if I should have said 'yes', as the front is noticeably lighter at higher speeds.
Gully
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2 hours ago, Iain T said:
Isn't it really the oil spilling over the sliding joint between the air piston and cap. I agree best to check regularly to dampen the rise in the piston or the mixture will go lean on acceleration.
Iain
As Doug noted below, the top adjuster CDSEs have O-rings by the needle adjusters immersed in the damper oil, which deteriorate and leak.
Gully
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
I have CDSE top adjusters which do have "O" rings. A pain to replace. There's a tiny sprag washer that has to be banged out from the needle end. Best to do it in a plastic bag as the sprag can travel a LONG way, generally never to be seen again.
Doug
Likewise!
Gully
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I seem to recall the manual recommends checking / topping up weekly anyway.
Mine do leak - the front carb more than the rear - so I check and top up generally to coincide with when I need to buy fuel every c. 200 miles.
Gully
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I've had the two individual ones the seller produces for the GT6 sat on a shelf in my shed for about 5 years now...
Gully
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Probably an earthing fault - those two bolts provide the earth connection to the body. Mine have had an additional earth wire added back to the loom as I have fibreglass valance panels.
Gully
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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
myself i am not a fan of cars that dont seem to have turned a wheel but..... driven by the voting it got a shield I would have liked to know where/how the car was re built
it was just tooooo clean
Pete
From what I could glean, it's just come out of an 8 year rebuild - much of it by the owner, but painted professionally.
Gully
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17 hours ago, Qu1ckn1ck said:
The winning E-Type, CVG 953F, certainly had an engine bay cleaner than the plates I eat my dinner off !
It was so good I checked it wasn't one of the recent 'run on' models!
Gully
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes they have performed very well and whilst is was moby dick i had the guardian turned off and oddly i get no scam calls now
guess the bummers have taken me off their call listing but thanks to Good Olde Doug it solved the scam call problem seemingly for good
and yes im writing this s l o w l y
Pete
I tried to get our locals to call you and ask for dashpot oil advice to aid your recovery, but clearly nobody got through! 🤣
Gully
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On 18/08/2023 at 17:05, johny said:
I always thought that must be a mistake (not unheard of in the manual) because surely the engine is heavier than the backend so more pressure will always be need at the front to keep the correct tyre shape and contact area....
I always assumed it was a RWD thing. RWD Escorts also had higher rear pressures than fronts. My experience with my '71 GT6 is if the fronts are pumped too hard, understeer appears - inevitable with the boat anchor of an engine mounted partially in front of the (virtual) front axle - and if the rears are too soft I can feel the sidewalls 'slopping'. Given that the GT6 Mk3 handbook was updated for the late swing spring models (so it covers both suspension designs), I don't believe the earlier pressures were a mistake.
Michelin's period fitment guide for the TR6 was 22psi front and 26psi rear...
Gully
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There are various threads on here regarding tyre pressures. Triumph had the GT6 MkIII pre-1973 cars with the fronts at a lower pressure than the rear, but reversed that for the 1973 swing spring cars. From the owners manual (based on 155 SR-13 radials):
Pre-'73 Front: 24psi, Rear 28psi
1973 Front: 30psi, Rear 26psi
Gully
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My GT6 Mk 3 is set at around 10 degrees advance - I've tweaked it by about a degree in 10 years of ownership! Tickover is set slightly higher than the manual at c. 1000rpm, as it's always had a tendency to occasionally die at junctions when down at c. 850. Pulls fine across the rev range. I use Super Unleaded, generally with a fuel additive (which includes octane boost as well as lead substitute and anti-ethanol properties).
As many have outlined above - if it runs well when set 'by feel / ear', there can't be too much wrong; seems to point to the damper ring having slipped as per John D's research.
Gully
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Whenever I follow one of these auction links I get drawn into browsing the other Lots available. There's a lovely Nova GTE in the sale - I had the 1.4i version back in the early 1990's and loved it: so much better than the Corsa which followed. Always had a soft spot for Vauxhalls, with my first car having been a Mk 1 Astra.
Gully
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You'll need a GT6 sump to clear the steering rack. https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-gt6-mkiii&diagram=triumph-gt6-mkiii-plates-sump-rear-oil-seal-dipstick-lifting-eyes Part 308571. Worth checking the usual suppliers, as Canley say available 2nd hand to order.
Gully
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22 hours ago, rlubikey said:
I love my overdrive switch on the gear knob!!!
Cheers, Richard
Me too!
Gully
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I think many of us run 175/70 R13 as they are a more common size, plus the circumference is very close to the original 155/80 tyres, meaning speedo readings are pretty much unaffected. Mine are on 5in rims, so they'll be fine on your 5.5in wheels.
Gully
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On 16/07/2023 at 17:20, daverclasper said:
Do you know who supplied it please gully. Same issue on mine (though Vitesse). Currently using a rubber washer and about a 5mm thick washer to reduce the depth.
Maybe not sealing where it should, as have empty section/sections of overflow hose always.
No problems with overheating, even when really hot ambient temp and traffic jams, so not the end of the world I guess?
Thanks, Dave
Mine came from Car Builder Solutions: https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/radiator-caps
Gully
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57 minutes ago, Kevin Atkins said:
It is, really strange - like you say, max pressure should be around 13 psi, unless that expansion hose is at fault like you suggest - that scenario makes sense, so definitely going to check that when the car has cooled down..
Worth checking that your rad cap isn't too deep for the neck of the radiator. If the sprung seal is completely compressed, it can't lift to release the pressure. Mind you, it's unlikely - main issue I had was finding a cap deep enough!
Gully
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My GT6 runs 175/70 tyres on 5 inch rims all round and has no bulkhead clearance issues. Standard front springs and shocks. When QuickNick and I compared cars (when he was having his bulkhead fouling issues) we found the front of his car (ground / chassis clearance) was sitting slightly lower than mine - as he's indicated above, a slight front end lift via adjustable spring pan shocks solved the problem.
Gully
Tyre size choice GT6
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Likewise - Toyo NanoEnergy 3 (in my case on 5J Minilites).
Gully