Gully
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Posts posted by Gully
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The original wipers / blades were 'Curved Screen Blades' by Trico. When I found the current Tex ones completely useless, I found some NOS Tricos on eBay - totally transformed the experience of driving in the rain! As you can see from the picture below, the hinging of the blade is designed for a curved screen profile, so tracks properly - curves in the opposite direction to all the ones I've found available now. Replacing the rubbers on occasions is not an issue when you have the right metalwork!
Gully
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The only replacement felt seals I've found to be correct are in the bearing packs the Club Shop supplies.
Gully
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I switch the sound off on my Sat Nav - the rolling map and lane display is sufficient. However, I never go anywhere new without a map and generally check the AA Route Planner as well as punching data into the Sat Nav. Google Streetview is ideal for letting you know what key junctions etc are going to look like in advance. When we stayed overnight in St Quentin on our way to the Alps back in April, I'd navigated my way from the Autoroute to our hotel near the station on Streetview to gain familiarity.
Gully
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3 hours ago, Puglet1 said:
Hi Gully. That’s interesting. Can you tell me who manufactured your spin on conversion or where it was purchased? The logic of removing my oil cooler and fitting a spin on conversion seems good but I am also concerned about clearances.
Pete.
Mine was a Mocal adaptor plate. The clearances on the GT6 are tighter than the Vitesse and I ended up having to remove the plate to take the spin-on filter off of it, which rather defeated the object! After a couple of oil changes and a dodgy batch of filters which wouldn't seal properly onto the adaptor, I fitted the original canister filter set-up. I did consider moving the oil pressure switch to another position along the oil galleries to gain space to change the filter angle, but removing a convenient blanking plug that probably hadn't shifted in almost 50 years defeated me!
Gully
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The general consensus on here in the past is that the 1500 Spitfire engines benefit from a thermostatically controlled oil coller, but for general road use the other Triumph engines don't warrant them.
I got rid of the spin on conversion on my GT6 as the various clearances were too much of a pain - returned to the original canister.
Gully
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Club Shop does bearing packs which I recall are a mix and match of Timken and AN Other for the inner and outer bearings (or so my GT6 front and rears were IIRC).
Gully
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The tapered sump plug on mine has some hemp on it to assist - been there for at least 10 years and numerous oil changes without a leak.
Gully
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Looks like a relay to me. Is the dial next to it a clue? Appears to be a fan controller for electric fans? You need to trace the wiring.
I'm sure there was a quiz game on TV like this 🤣
Gully
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One of our locals has a TR7 which was Ziebarted - it's survived very well with no welding required.
Gully
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20 hours ago, Bfg said:
^ 'Grosvenor House' was in the museum one day, and then on the next is up flying alongside a guest.. the polished aluminium 'silver Spitfire' (Mk.IV I think - 1943)
Pete
It's a Mk IX Spitfire. Originally MJ271, now G-IRTY. Worth checking out 'The Longest Flight' story on www.silverspitfire.com
Gully
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Ian's beaten me to it - you have the wrong oil filler cap for that breather set up. You need the vented type Ian has pictured.
Gully
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Seems I'm one of the lucky ones! Mine has generally always started 'on the button', even after a few weeks of inactivity. Evaporation does play a part - in hot weather, if it's been a couple of weeks without starting, it might kick and stop, then start immediately on second pull, but otherwise I pull the choke out and it starts straight away.
The only failures to start for me were a fuel pump diaphragm failure (after 2 months stored in my parents' garage) and a fuel pump valve failure (again, whilst stored in my folks' garage when building work was occurring at home).
Something I have done recently is replace the short lengths of rubber fuel hose connecting the rigid sections around the carbs - might be worth checking that they're not deteriorating?
Gully
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2 hours ago, Mjit said:
It was?!? My experience has always been a royal PITA, having to slacking off the top mounting, so you can remove the little wire hiding strup, so you can fight to get the new wires to go down the correct path, all while wedged uncomfortably in the footwell.
Changing the whole switch is a bit of a pain, but still easier than replacing the horn brush ring! No - what I was referring to was fixing the loose rivets: cowling off, undo the two screws holding the switch, pull out the rivets, dip in a bit of glue and replace (without losing the springs!). Then screw back into place and refit the cowling.
Gully
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5 hours ago, Mjit said:
If your indicator switch is one of the new ones on the market the last couple of years you might want to inspect it - my original switch failed (after the best part of 50 years service) but the new one that replaced it barely lasted a year, and the one that replaced that was threatening to do the same in a matter of months. In both cases the 2 sprung cancellation arms were held in place by cheap metal rivets pressed into soft plastic. But soft plastics creep, so the rivets come loose, everything falls apart, and in the first case one of the springs went walkabout. Think I glued the rivets in place on the second one and so far that's help together.
I did the same with mine - fortunately it didn't come apart, so I didn't loose any pieces. Just glued the rivets into the plastic. That was probably 5 years ago now.
I had to realign the cancelling lug on my GT6. I simply undid the column UJ clamp, pulled the inner column out and rotated it until the lug was at the 3 o'clock position and slid it back into the UJ splines. Worked a treat ever since (aside from the replacement switch issue, which was a quick fix).
Gully
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Hi Nick,
I replaced the clutch slave on mine in March of this year. I bought the replacement from Rimmers back in 2018 (when mine first leaked, then stopped for while!) - came with a new bleed nipple and quality was excellent. The casting was identical to the rather grotty Girling one I removed.
At the same time I swapped the coiled copper pipe for a braided hose - that came from Rimmers too (and was the reason why I bought the slave from there - nobody else had the hoses at the time and it meant I didn't have to pay 2 lots of postage).
Simple job made painful by the tunnel removal / replacement!
Gully
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Welcome aboard! That's a lovely looking car and really practical too.
Gully
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The concentric slave failed on my 4x4 Octavia. £1,600 bill (not a main dealer). Undertray off, 4wd transfer box removed, gearbox out - all to change a small, low-cost part. I'll stick with the original GT6 fitment, thanks! 🤣
Gully
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I went aluminium for the GT6 after a couple of recored ones failed in quite short periods - one in the core, the other the filler neck cap tangs fractured. Bought mine from here: https://custommaderads.co.uk/product/triumph-gt6-aluminium-radiator/
Gully
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14 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said:
so I bought one of these. Very pleased with it.
That's what I use - bought off Ebay from Chic Doig some years ago now.
Gully
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With Peter James, the agreed value dictates how secure your night-time parking arrangements need to be. From recollection, anything over £15k needs to be garaged at night and you won't be insured after 10pm if you are within half a mile of your registered address and it's not in the garage.
Out and about (pubs, friends houses) I simply use a disk-lok. If your car is going to be left unsecured all the time, it might be worth considering a remote battery isolator switch. However, nothing will stop mindless vandalism, or the more organised tow away / flatbed lift.
Gully
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I'm running 175/70 tyres on 5J Minilites on my GT6 - no interference or sidewall 'rolling' issues.
Gully
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Mine had been painted silver at some stage in its life, but the paint had gone soft / tacky. When I wiped it away the filter bowl was pre-finished in black. However, mine originally came from a Vitesse (so is the larger bowl and may have been a different shade to the GT6!).
Can't see the BL bean counters painting something they'd already paid to have pre-finished...
Gully
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I fitted a County new slave cylinder to my GT6 weekend before last. The casting was identical to the leaky Girling I removed.
Gully
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Removed the Mocal spin on filter adaptor from my GT6 and replaced it with an original style bowl years ago (albeit from a Vitesse, not a GT6, so the larger version). I always found I had to remove the adaptor plate to get the spin-on filter off - too much hassle!
I understand the GT6 filter bowl was smaller than the Vitesse owing to standardisation for LHD and RHD models - steering column clearance was needed for the LHD cars.
Gully
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GT6 Boiled Over...
in Cooling System
Posted
The Owner's Manual has the following to say about refilling the cooling system from empty:
1. Refit the bottom hose
2. Close the block drain tap
3. Move heater controls to 'Hot'
4. Fill the system through the radiator filler. Refit the pressure cap and half fill the expansion tank.
5. Run the engine at fast idle for 30s, stop the engine and top up the system through the radiator filler. Refit the pressure cap
6. Run the engine up to normal temperature. Stop the engine, allow to cool, then top up the expansion bottle to half full
I've always used this approach - seems to work for me. Only challenge I've encountered in the past is getting a radiator cap which seals sufficiently to pull the water back from the bottle as it cools - even when the seals are okay, some leak from the centre rivets and pull air instead.
Gully