jagnut66

Has it had any effect on your paintwork? Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I've had idiots in moderns drive into the back of my classics a few times in the past and the excuse was always the same: "I couldn't see your brake lights" They were of course overlooking the small fact that had they not been driving with the front end their car up my tail pipe, then they might have done and therefore had some prior warning of my intended desire to cease forward motion........... One of them was most surprised when I pointed this out to them in much clearer terms............ Anyway since this I have been a convert to the idea of giving the idiots behind me (those that can bear to follow a classic that doesn't drive everywhere at 90 that is, resisting the near suicidal urge to overtake at the first opportunity, regardless of oncoming traffic.................) a higher level of warning of my intentions. In other words I now fit high level brake lights as a matter of course. This is what I've done to the Herald, I think it fits in with the car. Also all my brake / rear lights are now LEDs from 'Classic Car LEDs Ltd.' My indicators will be next, although I am content to leave the headlamps standard for now, simply because I like them, they seem to light the road ahead up well enough and I don't have any desire to blind oncoming traffic with unnecessarily bright headlamps. When one blows I have lined up some P700 lights to fit and install Xenon bulbs. I'm not a fan of LEDs in headlamps for the reason stated above. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183600909319?var=691015395068 https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-for-classic-cars-with-oe-clicking-sound?_pos=1&_sid=d01f12ef9&_ss=r https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/12-volt-bright-amber-led-indicator-bulbs-bau15s?_pos=1&_sid=0cbaf3d4c&_ss=r https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173027530964?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item28493e98d4:g:VBAAAOSwtAtboNH3&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACkPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSDAeS9EQtjPGVfKXTxF0%2BjvVewhaVaN3dzwX0K%2Bkj2vI%2BwqoBA%2FggH9SIDjnN9OfYdpXEWHVggWmW65yzYpmyAgnYDiATrLG%2FfIPAlJVQRUi%2BsOjR1Ory4vuo4fCOBzgZ4%2BlrHY6gK0Cu03QORHt6KX59PgmVxDibn%2BHf39Ya5tObYTuOEZB%2BxhntJiF8F8VTyePBAYoteRyKw1tnLvBzet0T5M4nwkOzn5ZDsqfalUIln3Tzdqf%2FnZq3DVWVp9rzrbB%2F%2Bt9wFDsEG0dPnAAJISVLxfXmes9zUtH6WzskJ9RQkX3iu4MB3%2F5vf4KSLQ6%2Blik2Vp1lrs3n%2BLdyzinBMBGlsaWmgTPZR6%2BXLUQ7McCNZuFP1iVOCyd41N1%2FV2UlSRV1bU592vFKGYfaEcn28guAUD%2F%2B6nXL0MdviDJ27N%2BHMj6jxUN2B1BME95SVInA0BY4CiPDdsCtp73MgADny1EPLxby5ew1A3aMcuBtwI7jPDwnLc%2F1byAEiCkcflq1Ahy%2FCwdNjn37SfpKg7JaEo9rE2o%2FyTKYXumfQNyXnqYoEzstKLpU%2BODo%2BhpzRYhZfLzhml%2F0yDNUQmEsD9mS%2FEc59S4agImfXXRl9n0KJaGv%2FNh5PntUCVarxI2A8jQZyaoQrufgOhRMzV4S5yd2MTwoLcXlMddDTngucelTGFd85yOVY4ml05rSBhZ%2FUYWDxNVjTyFT2Wb8GRSIlb4glGSFhATnshb6r07y6wT9nwloWhUedf%2Bl%2FLtfwebA97It5gA9erpYE6mHDPzWt28j58GUS4asfRoZG306RGacqoKMe0GJnkXJe8sggN5lWSpE|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I've had the (pictures) below clogging up space in my Heralds boot since I bought it. The previous owners thought it was okay but then they had a garage, so I don't suppose it was used that much. I've heard allot of negative comments about covers over the years, so I'm tempted to let it go. What do others on here think. Best wishes, Mike.

Found this on ebay, so going to give it a go..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402795474037 Best wishes, Mike.

That's why I was flummuxed, it was shown in the manual as being there, thought I was going mad.................. then remembered I am............... 😄 Yet they're still on the road 50 plus years later........... I have a couple of those, one for the Minors, as they use engine oil in the gearbox and one for the diff (EP90), which is now also for the Triumph gearbox (same). This, of course, is for clean fresh oil. So I would have to get another for the 'dirty' old oil if I go this route. Though I am tempted to drill and fit a drain plug, using a Triumph plug, as used on the gearbox and engine, so they all match. What size tap would that be? Plus, if I do this, will flushing it through with oil be enough to clean out any swarf? Of course I could drill it with the old oil still in place and let it flush itself...................... 😉 Thanks and best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I have a Herald 1200 and I have just been round servicing, emptying oils and refilling etc. However when I got to the diff I couldn't see a drain plug. I can see the filler plug but when I cleared away the accumilated gunk from the bottom of the diff, where the manual indicates the drain plug should be............. nothing?? Just solid casing, not even a blanked off port..... I checked my spare diff and this is the same, a filler plug but no drain plug. Can anyone advise on this? Many thanks, Mike.

Thanks Tony, I understand what you mean now. Yes, comprehensive kit in that regard, it's simply that the new adjustment bracket is as useful as a chocolate teapot (polite version).😉 Best wishes, Mike.

Just need to find the correct 'female' sump plug removal tool. A 12mm does the job for now but it's not ideal, plus I need one on the end of an extension bar, if my access hole is to work. So 1/2" drive as well, or used with an adapter. (I've seen plenty of 10mm ones on sale but they'll be too small.) Best wishes, Mike

Hi, Yes, on both sides. Plenty of clearance between the Alternator and the valance. Not sure what you mean by the 'other side'? Do you have a picture of what you mean? I had to space the old one out with washers because it needs to be slightly further forward to work with the Alternator. I think it just looks like there is a kink in the picture, the old bracket is the same shape as when it was used with the Dynamo. No matter how you fit the new adjustment bar, the slot is too short to take up the slack in the new belt. Plus the 'curved' slot in the old adjuster works better. If I can find a single piece spacer to replace the washers I will. I will see if there are any old alternator bracket spacers on sale anywhere. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, Amongst the many things I want / need to get done before driving my Herald to the joint MG / Triumph weekend was to change my gearbox oil, as I have no idea when this was last done. However to do this you have to remove the gearbox tunnel cover to access the filler plug easily. What a palaver. So I decided to make it easier for myself next time I took a leaf out of the Morris Minor book, by cutting an access hole into the gearbox tunnel cover on the drivers side. Simple enough, especially as it seems to be made out of some form of hardboard...... I wasn't expecting that..... Anyway, I cut a hole and added a nut and washers just above it to keep the sound deadening material in place (large rubber washer used on the inside so it doesn't damage / tear through the sound deadening material). I based the size on the rubber plug used to seal the filler hole in the gearbox cover on a Morris Minor (inner lip diameter), then used a spare plug (link to same below) I had for the Minor to bung it up when not required. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjcxZqpyqzyAhXV7u0KHZt-BI8YABAFGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESQOD2XLWWIHs7i97xDiu0QNwVbt2NLUuMu5KDThC66q_n6Uh52XLkV6qjF6u9rytXoVJfvM8EuHiUrf7PeI7s1DA&sig=AOD64_2lNTCHDUscyQa2KXTosM_HAcYz6w&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjY95KpyqzyAhVNUMAKHXa8CsQQ9aACegQIARBO&adurl= Best wishes, Mike. NB: Access for filling isn't an issue, as I have a couple of these syringes (link below), which I find very good for filling gearboxes and rear diffs. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274045051615?epid=1337081264&hash=item3fce5ba2df:g:30UAAOSw2s5dne9K

Hi, I converted my Herald to an alternator today and found a problem I wasn't expecting. I got my kit from Rimmer Bros., so expected it all to be 'tried and tested'. However, if I'd used the adjustment bracket in the kit the fan belt would have been flopping round like someone who's drunk too much beer on their wedding night................ Totally useless. So I refitted the original adjustment bracket from the Dynamo, with 4 washers to space it out, lo and behold, plenty of adjustment and a firm fixing when it was all tightened up. As you can see from the puictures, the new adjuster that comes with the kit is too short and too straight, it leaves no room for adjustment. Best wishes, Mike.

Having the club shop is good but it pays to search the internet as well. E10 at ASDA already, so presumably Tescos also. A shame, as I like to shop around for the best price (which was usually ASDA), so the options are starting to shrink. I shall be looking for an Esso station near me. Best wishes, Mike.

Funny you should mention metal fuel pipes, I have new replacement fuel pipes and linking rubber pipes to fit in the near future. That should be an interesting exercise.............. Needless to say I will be replacing the hose sections in the kit with my E10 (100) proof hose. Noted for the above installation, thanks Pete. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, Whilst my heater matrix is away being recored I was intending to run the car without it, by linking the two pipes at the back of the engine that normally connect into it, creating a loop. Which considering that the heater must have been pretty much bunged up with crud anyway, might be an improvement (temporarily). I think this should be okay but just wanted to test the water (no pun intended) and see what others thought. My main reason of course is a desire to attend the joint MG / triumph weekend, this Saturday. I doubt the matrix will have been done by then. Best wishes, Mike.

I stuck a hosepipe in the end near the bulkhead (with a section of rubber hose attached to it) and managed to flush it through, without removing it from the engine. It ran dark red for some time, then started clearing and was coming out completely clear in the end. Flushed the whole engine out whilst I was at it and was pleased to find that the engine drain tap wasn't blocked up. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, Whilst servicing and renewing parts on my Herald today I spotted the fuel hose to my mechanical fuel pump. It had been changed to an 'unleaded' type but, from the look of it, quite a while ago. So I dug out a length of E10 resistant hose that I sourced for my Minors, cut it to length and fitted it. One thing less to worry about, as they claim this is good up to E100!! Whilst doing this I thought members might like a link to it, below. It's sold in 1 meter lengths. https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/fuel-hose- ... 7-3mm.html As an aside, whilst I was at it I thought I'd renew my rubber seal round the fuel filler neck, ' straightforward job' I thought............. famous last words! 🙄 I ended up removing the tank and then found it a cow to get back in...... Don't want to do that job again in a hurry. Best wishes, Mike.

All my hoses are off and will be replaced by silicone ones. I will take a look at that pipe under the manifold, it did cross my mind to remove it but I think I'll give it a soak in Plusgas first. Best wishes, Mike.

The bolt is out, plusgas plus my long handled rachet and some elbow grease, slowly and carefully turned it out. There will be plenty of copper grease on the threads when I reinstall the housing. The rad and the heater matrix 'bled' pure rust and I've got to flush the engine out yet.................... This is what you get for not using antifreeze in the water. You'd think people would know better but the last three cars I've bought have contained nothing but plain tap water. Doing this just means the engines rust from the inside out and the waterways can block up, plus you could get a cracked block in winter. Why do people do it?? Oh, well............ Best wishes, Mike.

The heater matrix is out and its a rusty mess, surprised it wasn't actually leaking. Probably too blocked up to leak................ Anyway that and my old leaky radiator will be taken to Mansfield Radiators for recoring tomorrow. To add to my woes one of the bolts (thought they would have used studs and nuts) holding the thermostat housing in place was rusted in solid. The short bolt came out, with effort but it unscrewed. The long bolt refused to budge and snapped its head off instead (at least this allowed me to remove the housing over the (now headless) bolt. It is soaking in Plusgas overnight and I will try again, also applying some heat, tomorrow. The other thing that was rusted in place was the heater impeller fan, no wonder it made an unpleasant noise whenever I dared to switch it on. Anyway I intend to install a blower from a Smart car which I have but I believe I need to swap the impeller for the Triumph one, so it blows the right way. However mine was determined not to budge and ended up breaking...... So I need a replacement plastic heater fan if anyone has one? I believe it is the same one as fitted to the Vitesse and the Spitfire heaters but I stand to be corrected. I shall also place a wanted advert for one, hopefully someone has a spare....... Best wishes, Mike.

Fair enough, I would have needed to know this soon anyway, for when I take my wheels off to change the tyres, so it's good (if a little surprising) to know. Best wishes, Mike.

That seems a rather low torque for wheel nuts? Best wishes, Mike.

I spoke to the club office this morning, the tickets will be going out in the post to people within the next few days.

Might be worth raising this as a 'Topic' on here Ed. I'm going to try to ring the club on Monday and find out what's happening. Best wishes, Mike.

Okay. Bingham is not far at all, so if you can let me have a contact number I'll pop over on the Friday (morning or afternoon?) and I'll be able to call you when I'm getting close. I've had both my shots (55 this year) in case you were wondering. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, Just a quick question here, in case I have to recut the thread on the stud which secures my spare wheel in position in the well, what is the thread size of Herald wheel nuts? Many thanks, Mike.