jagnut66

I bought one of the replacement knobs from Chic Doig and it arrived today. I am pleased to say that the lens, label and clip came out easily. However, before I fit them into the knob on my Herald, there was one small detail that needed to be 'restored'. On the original choke labels there is a black dot in the centre, this is missing from labels on replacement knobs. Silly, I dare say. But I wanted it to look like the one I needed to replace. Time to dust off my old modelling brushes and paints. The pictures below probably explain better what I'm on about. Best wishes, Mike.

I've used JDO a few times for recalibrating Morris speedos, notably when I fitted a 1275 MG Midget engine into a former two door Minor of mine. Once it's all in place and working I'll take it for a spin and compare the speedo readings at 30, 50 and 70 to the app on my phone, which will tell me what I'm really doing...... Thanks for all your help and advice, so far, there will doubtless be more questions from me to come...... 😉 Best wishes, Mike.

Please bear with me, I haven't dealt with overdrive gearboxes before in terms of fitting them to a car that didn't originally have one, so some questions may seem 'obvious' to others but not to me. There was no angle drive supplied with the gearbox, perhaps this was just as well, as a second hand one may be passed its best by now. I didn't ask because I assumed the cable would screw straight onto the gearbox connection, from what has been said above I take it this is not the case and I will need to fit an 'Angle Drive'. Does anyone recommend a particular Angle Drive, or shall I just go for one of these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392426804649?hash=item5b5e75d5a9:g:~hIAAOSwadNdfX1i Looking at the images for the above, they appear to show the washer you mention, it appears to be used on the side that screws into the gearbox, is this correct? I also see on Rimmer's site mention of a speedo drive pinion, is this what you think I may need to change? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-506119 To confirm, the gearbox will be attached to my existing 1200 engine. Thanks and best wishes, Mike.

I had a gearstick adapted for me, to retain a more 'standard' look inside the car, the overdrive will be operated by a (Vitesse?) column stalk. Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks for the confirmation Josef. Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks to both of you for this valuable information. I think I will follow Pete's instructions and give the solenoid a service whilst it's off the car. And Colin's advice about replacing the inhibitor switch, I've already found one on eBay, I take it this is the right one? https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwijrN-9hKn4AhWj6O0KHYqpCrcYABAMGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbeD2JjsUgpYJxO8gVJe1i1Tapine4OxoiVBhk8R8c2VtGSSlaDaEzlY2edeYvJGUHNrP_NTfNuI1-CWWfffYVoRyjf24ID-2R039fI6XtBPvgf7KXDt6mJYobvTcGJt0eappRGNaEY4-9KIH9SY&sig=AOD64_1SAnfGqj3greYqX2uZJdwwr-chsg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjj8Nm9hKn4AhVJUMAKHdaeDg4Q9aACKAB6BAgBEE8&adurl= I will also need to replace the speedo cable but which one do I use? One from a Vitesse (as below)? https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwih_PzXh6n4AhWDgFAGHYbnCVwYABANGgJkZw&ae=2&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbeD2uuf-5KuuLHl8PpIwuvVetBsUdRUqFFJvipol9F2oCwmbG5QpWJfqhlaSzXz_-8HB4u0eZZQzn3rp6QLoSRE0tnSSlJ3xQD4WsR5ftm1n9QnYtkK08l9ppZeyFl3avbRxIWRQbHMkHFaycuQ&sig=AOD64_2nEJletVpR4QwNE3-atIoD8_4TfQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjEi_bXh6n4AhWPglwKHbliC5MQ9aACKAB6BAgBEEI&adurl= Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks for this Colin. I'm guessing you mean the 'lid' I've circled in my first picture below. If it's this way up, nothing's going to spring out when I remove it, is it? I assume this will then need a gasket replacing when I put it back on. That makes sense. Though I am now left wondering what the electrical spade connections circled in my second picture, located on the top of the box are for, I take it they are nothing to do with the overdrive unit? Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks Pete, I take it I also need these? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265004020532?epid=25043536613&hash=item3db3787334:g:bX4AAOSwSJlf9fBR Best wishes, Mike.

Apart from giving it a clean up and replacing the release bearing, no. I was sold it as a working gearbox, I am hoping it is such. I am not skilled enough to start stripping down an overdrive gearbox, so it would have to be a professional job and that's a bill I could do without at present. It either works or the existing four speed would go back in for now. Two other questions I do have: Firstly, whilst moving the box into the garage I have noticed the little short back wire, does it connect as I have placed it in the first picture below? (Don't worry about it's condition, I intend to make up a new one.) Secondly, I take it the strap in the second picture is a severed earth strap to the chassis? If so I shall source a replacement. Once again, many thanks, Mike. NB: The gearbox isn't stored upended like this, it was just positioned like this for the purpose of taking these pictures.

Firstly, to say thanks to everyone for the (ongoing) advice. 😃👍 I found this on eBay, it looks the same as the one in your picture but is listed for the Spitfire, do you know if it is the suitable for the Herald tunnel? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255538604088?hash=item3b7f49a838:g:GoUAAOSwVyligl~x I've ordered one of these from James Paddock: http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/overdrive-mounting-plate-d-type-2 But found this cheaper on eBay: https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjai6qnm6j4AhUJsu0KHUeoAiAYABAJGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESbeD2eNCZ58P-2XC6A839VPa4ug6NaY-_a4GaA0cPewNKM5xcxI-xT01UNAakxRrGPklJmMAP80lDlBTDWDFHnvj2cnVUoLfMQbjrDQkOY1IHf3Fm50Wn7PkERqlFPua2bV4Agh7jkI8RscqrKys&sig=AOD64_1VSosLBaqTQuUMRqZPcnsOFXKA4A&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwj_hKWnm6j4AhVSeMAKHYpsCIYQ9aACKAB6BQgBEJ0B&adurl= Best wishes, Mike.

It's just occurred to me, as I finally gear up (no pun intended😉) to fit this, will it fit straight onto my existing Herald 1200 gearbox crossmember or do I need to make some alterations / adjustments there for it to sit comfortably? Or should I purchase a Spitfire crossmember and fit that with new bushes? I know, I should have thought about this earlier.......🙄 Best wishes, Mike.

Well the new rubbers are on but the removal of the old ones from the front valence revealed that it's in a bit of a sad state. It's covered up again for now but I will need to replace this in due course. Fortunately I believe it bolts on, so not a major job, unless someone's about to inform me otherwise.......... So if anyone out there reading this has a spare front valence, in reasonable condition with decent channels for the fitment of the white rubbers, for a Herald 1200 / 1250, I would be very interested. Thanks and best wishes, Mike.

As an aside, another tool I'm finding useful in the fitment of these bumpers is a rubber mallet. Best wishes, Mike.

I managed to 'extract' the plastic lens and choke label from my original knob, it involved at bit of 'butchery' but as I didn't need it anymore and they are still available for sale (see above post by Colin) I didn't feel too guilty. I retouched any damaged to the label with some modelling paint I had to hand and, having allowed it to dry for 24 hours, I stuck it in place in the new knob. Not brilliant but it will do for now. I will look out for one of the knobs with the tabs that you mention above. Best wishes, Mike.

Taking inspiration from the fact you succeeded, plus the fact that the nut had reappeared, on the passenger side mat, I gave the matter further thought. Deciding that I didn't want to remove the speedo again, so soon after reinstalling it, I looked at it from the passenger side. I reached in behind but to one side of my radio, keeping my arm against the bulkhead I managed to get it up behind the ashtray and feeling with just my fingers first time round I found the end of the screw. Having been able to grip the screws thread the first time, I then went back in the same way with the nut and washer and managed to wind it back onto the thread, then hold it in place, whilst I screwed it up tight with the screwdriver in my other hand. Not totally easy but allot simpler than I expected and I (surprisingly) found access to it straight away, which I didn't going at it through the speedo hole a couple of times the other day. I've also found a nut that fits the machine screw by the side of the glovebox, so that's done, for now. Best wishes, Mike.

Love that dark grey(?) Herald of yours, by the way. It looks great, I must get mine repainted. Best wishes, Mike.

That does seem like a good idea, threaded bar, going through the captive nut, with a nut / washer either side to hold it in place, push it back through the metal tube and into place and then spin a wing nut and washer on, on the inside by the petrol tank. Done tight enough to hold it in place but not so tight as you can't break the lock and spin it back off again. Plus my other favourite ingredient..... lashings of copper grease!.....😃 I shall give this serious consideration. Yes, I've even centralised the captive nut, hit the retaining case with the chisel like side of a large cross pein hammer, just hard enough to fix the nut in place, added plenty of copper grease, threaded the bolt through it successfully off the car (to make sure the thread itself was okay) but when it's in place on the car will the thread bite, will it hell!! Like you I spent (wasted?) loads of time trying to get the bolt in......... What's the emoji for frustration / tearing (what's left of) my hair out? LOL Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I had a look for these but couldn't find one, do you have a link? Many thanks, Mike.

Well, taking one section at a time I tore off the old rubber -- literally, it has the consistency of thick card -- and then cleaned up the runners. The passenger side wasn't too rusty but the rear (below the boot lid) was a bit 'lacy' in places, anyway much scraping and cleaning out of old muck later I treated the channels and the front of the runners to a dose of waxoil. I then did the same to grooves in the new rubber. It all looked pretty straightforward at that point. A few hours later and those are the only two sections that I have (just) completed. It took quite an effort to get them on. That said, they do look allot better now they are 'degreased' and cleaned up. I also replaced my rear over-rider on the passenger side, which wasn't much fun, as the petrol tank is in the way of direct access to the bolt heads and I wasn't removing that again in a hurry. The new one is secured by the top bolt only for now, it is tight and secure, I simply couldn't get the bottom bolt to thread in, despite it winding in easily off the car. I think it's a nut alignment issue. It's all well copper greased and waxoiled for now, so I'll have another go, another day. Best wishes, Mike.

Very nice too, Burr Walnut? How did you get that centre top screw reattached / screwed back in? The one directly below the courtesy light. Or were you lucky enough not to have your nuts fall off and disappear? Best wishes, Mike.

Thanks Colin, it's the choke label insert that I'm after though, rather than a replacement knob, as the knob on the replacement cable is moulded in place. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I have some replacement white rubber (finishers? covers?) to renew the old and splitting white rubber sections on top of my Heralds bumpers. Before I make a start, I didn't notice any special clips advertised with the new rubber sections, so do the just prise / lever off the retaining metal channels / lips or are there some hidden clips i need to watch for / try and salvage? I will first unscrew the stainless end caps of course. Many thanks for any help / advice. Mike.

Hi, I have finally got round to installing my new Burr Elm dashboard, I am pleased to say it wasn't the pain to remove / replace that I was concerned it might be. Though I did take pictures of where the wiring connects behind the speedo to try and ensure I got that right when reinstalling it. I have kept these for future reference, in case I decide for fork out for a new loom and rewire her at some point. I was pleasantly surprised to find that all the switches just pushed back behind the dash easily and I simply had to feed them back through and screw their respective bezels back in place. On the down side I did succeed in loosing a couple of the nuts for the top machine screws, the lower ones were all standard screws, although I'm not convinced that the machine screw beside the glove box had one to start with, as all I found was a washer and I only heard a single clunk. Plus that side seemed to screw back tightly anyway. The drivers side one I found and with the speedo out was easy to refit. However the machine screw at the top centre of the dash lost its nut and it's not a tight fit either. Though I can't see how I'd get my hand up behind there to fit one anyway and I tried whilst the speedo was out, so that is pretty much just for show now. The only control knob that wouldn't push back through was the choke, which I pulled straight through and took out with the old dash anyway, as it needed replacing. The old cable was kinked, stiff and sounded like it was grinding ever time I operated it, plus it was only just long enough for the SU set up I now have in place, so is now in the bin. However, unless someone can point me to a source, I couldn't find a label for the new knob, which is fixed in place and doesn't remove like the old one, so I couldn't just swap them over. I have managed to 'extract' the choke label from the old knob, 'after a fashion', but if there is a source of new ones available I would be interested to know. On the up side, I now have a smooth choke operation. The only thing I have lost is the small white lettering under the little switch to the right of the steering wheel, which read 'Heater Fan', a shame but, as there's nothing I can do about it anyway..... Please excuse the fingerprint smudges on the dash in the pictures below, they have since been wiped off. I am glad I chose the Burr Elm, as I really like it now it's in place, I don't know why I haven't installed it sooner..... Best wishes, Mike.

Many thanks for the replies / tips. 👍 Talking of the clutch, is there a flywheel locking tool available that members can recommend? I have one for my 'A' series Morris engines but I doubt it will be any use for a Triumph unit. Best wishes, Mike.

Hi, I am now hoping that in the next couple of weeks I will get Hetty into the garage to remove the gearbox and replace it with my overdrive unit. I am also hoping I can do this through the car without the need to pull the engine out (thus minimal disruption). Do members have any helpful tips for doing this? / Things to avoid doing etc.? Any pictures of this being done would be great too. Many thanks, Mike.