cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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I have "invested" in some of these. They seem quite robust and firm with a slight "slippyness" to the surface. Ordered a pack of 8 but they sent 11 for some reason.
I will initially fit just the outer two each side, which I can do without removing the spring, and see how they wear. If all good after a few months I will take the spring out and do the others, but don't want to go through the hassle of that if they are rubbish.
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3 hours ago, Casper said:
Keep us informed
C.
Will do.
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Sent Keytrader a picture of the key which they have identified, so ordered one and hopefully it will be ok 🤞
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Just now, Casper said:
Believe us, Keytrader are good. They can normally identify key code from a p hoto. Speak to them.
C.
Ok, many thanks 👍
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On 06/11/2022 at 14:56, PeteH said:
Reminds me of Honda bikes, cheap to buy back in the day, and generally more reliable, but a new say? Exhaust was an arm and both legs.
pete
Sounded good though with British megaphone exhausts fitted instead and revving to 10,000 RPM 👍
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Many thanks for all the responses. I think I will order a couple of blanks and see if someone local can copy my existing key 👍
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1 hour ago, Ian Faulds said:
Yes they can cut the key from the key number
Looking at the website, the only number on the key UNI19 appears to be identifying the blank. I can't see anything else on it.
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Many thanks for responses. I have identified the blank number on keytrader.
Can they cut an actual key without physically having the original
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Trying to get a spare copied for my 78 Spit but can't find anywhere that has suitable blanks.
Has anyone got any ideas where to try?
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6 minutes ago, Steve P said:
Don't know it it helps but when I fitted Led stop and tails to my Vitesse the sidelights and indicators came on when the pedal was pressed.Turned out to be just the earth loop on the back of the rear light was not getting a good earth through the body,all good after a cleanup with Emery paper.
S
Yes, that does help in so much as there is clearly more stuff I need to check out. Need to go round everything with my meter, measuring resistance etc.
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43 minutes ago, Wagger said:
Does the voltage across the bulb drop or disappear when you connect the brake light wire?
I will add that to the list of things to check when I get to look at it again. Probably not until next week now 😒
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1 hour ago, Wagger said:
Check when fitted in the car that voltage is present at the bulb and that it is the correct polarity.
Yes, checked with my meter earlier and all good.
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38 minutes ago, JohnD said:
Don't forget that the D of "LED" stands for 'diode'! They are one-way items, and will only work if the polarity is correct. Never a problem with incandescent bulbs!
John
Yes, checked that. Both parts of bulb work if positive connected to the relevant terminal & negative to the metal body. And as stated earlier, the tail light illuminated if the brake wire is disconnected but goes out as soon as you reconnect 🥴
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14 minutes ago, NonMember said:
You said it works on the bench but did you try all combinations? In particular, try powering the tail light pin while grounding the brake light one, as that's what it should be seeing in the condition where it doesn't work on the car.
I will try that and also what happens on the car when the brake is applied. One thing that has occurred to me is that I have only replaced one bulb, so the brake light wire which I have been talking about is still connected to the filament bulb on the other side, although I don't see why that would make a difference. However, I will try disconnecting it at which point that wire shouldn't have a circuit anywhere, unless there is a fault of some sort. But if there was a fault, it doesn't affect the old bulbs. I will meter that cabling out to check, I think
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Yes, been doing some calculations and reckon the voltage drop through the brake light filaments would be fairly low, so that explains that bit.
I have been testing this with the engine off but my meter is showing well over 12v at the lamp holder. What I can't understand is why the LED bulb lit with the brake light wire disconnected but holder grounded, then went out when I re-attached the wire. That wire should only go to the other brake bulb and one side of the brake pedal switch.
What I don't know, of course, is the internal circuitry of the LED bulb. Are there 2 separate sets of LEDs for tail & brake, or is it say 50% of them for tail and 100% for brake? If the later, then the 2 wires may be connected within the bulb in a way that I can't see 🤔
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Thinking about this further, I can see that with one lamp holder removed, there is still a path to ground through the filaments of both brake lights. With the tail light on, it became slightly brighter when the bulb holder was grounded, but IF the circuit was through 2 other filaments I would assume it would be far dimmer.
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Bought some LED tail/brake lights and they didn't work in the car, although works fine when 12v applied on the workbench.
Then I realised that the original filament tail light illuminated even when the bulb holder wasn't seated, so no path to ground. Only possible circuit is through the brake light wire and sure enough, when that was removed the tail light went out.
So fitted the new LED bulb with the brake wire disconnected and it lit when I touched the bulb holder to ground, but when I connected the brake light wire it went out, although holder still grounded.
With the original bulb everything works fine.
I'm sure there is a logical explanation but it is eluding me at the moment 😒
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Just now, clive said:
Get a screen thing to go behind th eseats. They really do work
Yes, I was looking at those. Mrs Cliff is always complaining about the wind so maybe worth getting.
I presume she is talking about the car 🤔
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11 minutes ago, clive said:
I like bright colours!
Like Colin, the weather was atrocious here yesterday, looking bettter today.
My only gripe. You need to learn how to fold the hood down correctly! (trust me, it will look neater and last longer)
I must collect my spitfire from the lockup today, need to fit my new wideband gauge/sensor as the old one seems to have died.
Yes, I know about the hood, and I usually fold it properly, but despite being sunny it wasn't too warm so heater on and trying to keep the cold air off my neck. Not sure it worked very well 🤔
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
That really is a beautiful car; never mind the view...
Here, I can't see the road for fog at present.
Glad you like it 👍. The colour is like marmite, people either love it or hate it lol
And it's certainly not sunny here today so I'm glad that I took the opportunity to go out ☔
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Lovely day for mid November. 30 mile circular trip ending up by the river in Godmanchester 👍
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On 10/11/2022 at 21:49, Paul Amey said:
Right, so last night I was in the pub with some friends and the old chap said that in the seventies his mate bought a Vitesse and inverted the rear leaf spring . This was done apparently to prevent the rear wheels from going in to negative camber. Has anyone heard of this before and is it a good idea?
Going back 40+ years ago I heard many times that the "fix" for the rear suspension was to reverse one leaf, but none of these "experts" could explain exactly what was involved.
I had a MkIV back then so no need but I also had people telling me that was what Triumph had done to improve matters. Knowing nothing about swing springs back then it sounded plausible at the time 🙄
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40 minutes ago, Rockape said:
Thinking about the coming winter period. Not much opportunity to drive the car, salt on the roads etc.
I am thinking i could jack the car up and lower the chassis onto some large wooden blocks to take the weight off the wheels. Does anyone else do this?
cheers
Nope, never went more than 2 weeks without the opportunity to drive mine with the hood down last Winter.
Hopefully the same this year 🤞
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6 hours ago, clive said:
I always have my gauges in the modern car quite dim, and never found the Triumph ones to be too dim. I really dislike bright gauges at night, as they distract from the road ahead. A nice, warm white glow works well.
I did use a pair of leds for an indicator WL, and that was horrenous at night, as a temp measure on the RBRR it got gaffa taped over, after I managed to dim it, a bit of clear sealant behind the green lens diffused the light.
Dim is ok but I do like to be able to actually read them.
Enhanced rear springs buttons
in Chassis, Suspension & Steering
Posted
Yes, that is what I plan to do, but with the outer 2 on each side. I have done this previously with rubber ones, but they didn't last long which is why I want to test these ones
Not sure if it is easier with a swing spring but I forced a flat blade screwdriver in at the end of a leaf, twisted it to make a larger opening for a pry bar. I then used this to open further so I could insert the screwdriver straight through behind where the button goes, so holding it open. Fairly easy to remove old and insert new rubber pads but will have to see with these new ones.
Will post pictures when I get around to trying it, which may be a while.